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THE HEART OF THE ANTARCTIC
BEING THE STORY OF THE BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION 1907-1909 BY SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON, C.V.O. NEW AND REVISED EDITION WITH ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR AND BLACK AND WHITE POPULAR EDITION LONDON WILLIAM HEINEMANN 1910 First published in Two Volumes, November 4, 1909 Popular Edition (One Volume) November 4, 1910 Second Impression, November 1919 Copyright, 1909, London, William Heinemann, and Washington, U.S.A., by J. B. Lippincott Company PREFACE THE
scientific results of the
expedition cannot be stated in detail in a single volume. Some of the
more
important features of the geographical work were as follow. We
passed the winter of 1908 in
McMurdo Sound, twenty miles north of the Discovery
winter quarters. In the autumn a party ascended Mount Erebus and
surveyed its
various craters. In the spring and summer of 1908-9 three
sledging-parties left
winter quarters; one went south and attained the most southerly
latitude ever
reached by man, and another reached the South Magnetic pole for the
first time;
while a third surveyed the mountain ranges west of McMurdo Sound. The
Southern Sledge-party planted
the Union Jack in latitude 88° 23' South, within one hundred
geographical miles
of the South Pole. This party of four ascertained that a great chain of
mountains extends from the 82nd parallel, south of McMurdo Sound, to
the 86th
parallel, trending in a south-easterly direction; that other great
mountain
ranges continue to the south and southwest, and that between them flows
one of
the largest glaciers in the world, leading to an inland plateau, the
height of
which, at latitude 88° South, is over 11,000 ft. above sea-level. This
plateau
presumably continues beyond the geographical South Pole, and extends
from Cape
Adore to the Pole. The
journey made by the Northern
Party resulted in the attainment of the South Magnetic Pole, the
position of
which was fixed, by observations made on the spot and in the
neighbourhood, at
latitude 72° 25' South, longitude 155° 16' East. The first part of this
journey
was made along the coast-line of Victoria Land, and many new peaks,
glaciers,
and ice-tongues were discovered, in addition to a couple of small
islands. The
whole of the coast traversed was carefully triangulated, and the
existing map
was corrected in several respects. The
survey of the western mountains
by the Western Party added to the information of the topographical
details of
that part of Victoria Land, and threw some new light on its geology. The
discovery of forty-five miles of
new coast-line extending from Cape North, first in a south-westerly and
then in
a westerly direction, was another important piece of geographical work.
I
should like to tender my warmest
thanks to those generous people who supported the expedition in its
early days.
Miss Dawson Lambton and Miss E. Dawson Lambton made possible the first
steps
towards the organisation of the expedition, and assisted afterwards in
every
way that lay in their power. Mr. William Beardmore (Glasgow), Mr. G. A.
McLean
Buckley (New Zealand), Mr. Campbell McKellar (London), Mr. Sydney
Lysaght
(Somerset), Mr. A. M. Fry (Bristol), Colonel Alexander Davis (London),
Mr. H.
H. Bartlett (London), and other friends contributed liberally towards
the cost
of the expedition. I
also wish to thank those friends
who guaranteed a large part of the necessary expenditure, and the
Imperial
Government for the grant of £20,000, which enabled me to redeem those
guarantees. Oversea
Britain showed a sympathetic
interest. I am indebted to the Government of the Commonwealth of
Australia for
a contribution of £5000. The New Zealand Government gave me £1000; and
also
agreed to pay half the cost of towing the Nimrod
as far as the Antarctic Circle. Indeed the kindness and generosity of
Australasians will remain one of the happiest memories of the "British
Antarctic Expedition, 1907." My indebtedness to various firms in the
matter of supplies has been acknowledged in chapter viii. I
have drawn on the diaries of
various members of the expedition to supply information regarding
events that
occurred while I was absent on journeys. Professor T. W. Edgeworth
David
narrates the incidents of the Northern Journey. The photographs with
which this
volume is illustrated have been selected from some thousands taken by
Brocklehurst, David, Davis, Day, Dunlop, Harbord, Joyce, Mackintosh,
Marshall,
Mawson, Murray and Wild, secured often under circumstances of
exceptional
difficulty. In
regard to the management of the
affairs of the expedition during my absence in the Antarctic, I would
like to
acknowledge the work done for me by my brother-in-law, Mr. Herbert
Dorman, of
London; by Mr. J. J. Kinsey, of Christchurch, New Zealand; and by Mr.
Alfred
Reid, the manager of the expedition, whose work throughout has been as
arduous
as it has been efficient. Finally,
let me say that to the
members of the expedition, whose work and enthusiasm have been the
means of
securing the measure of success recorded in these pages, I owe a debt
of
gratitude that I can hardly find words to express. I realise very fully
that
without their faithful service and loyal co-operation under conditions
of
extreme difficulty success in any branch of our work would have been
impossible. ERNEST
H. SHACKLETON
LONDON October 1909 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION THE
publication of this edition of
"The Heart of the Antarctic" calls for a word or two from me.
Owing
to the necessity of recording
all that occurred during our stay in the Antarctic and the inclusion of
much
scientific matter, the first edition attained proportions that made it,
not
only expensive to publish, but placed the book out of reach of the
ordinary
reader. In
this edition the narrative
embraces all matters of general public interest. Judging by the way in
which
the public has shown its interest in the doings of the Expedition, I
feel that
the time has come for the issue of an account of our Work in
Antarctica, less
bulky in form and at a lower price. I
hope that the following pages will
convey to readers a good idea of the work of our Expedition in the Far
South: and,
as a last word, I wish to thank Britons all the world over for the keen
interest taken in the efforts of our members to extend the general
knowledge of
that portion of the Imperial Dominion round about the Pole. E.
H. S.
LONDON, September 1910
CONTENTS CHAPTER I THE EXPEDITION Inception and Preparation: Food Supply: Equipment: The /Vinsra: Hut for Winter Quarters: Clothing: Ponies, Dogs, and Motor-car: Scientific Instruments: Miscellaneous Articles of Equipment CHAPTER II THE STAFF OF THE EXPEDITION The Members of the Expedition :Nimrod leaves East India Docks, July 80: In the Solent, August 3-5 CHAPTER III ROYAL VISIT TO THE NIMROD In the Solent: The Nimrod visited by Royal Party: Her Majesty Queen Alexandra presents a Union Jack to the Commander of the Expedition Torquay, August 6: Nimrod arrives: August 7, the Nimrod sails for Lytteltoa, via St. Vincent and Cape Town: Arrival at Lyttelton, November 23,1907 CHAPTER IV LYTTELTON TO THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE Final Preparations at Lyttelton: Enthusiastic send-off: In tow of the Soonya for 1510 miles: Getting through the Pack-ice: Ross Sea reached January 17 CHAPTER V THE ATTEMPT TO REACH KING EDWARD VII LAND Disappearance of Barrier Inlet: Course to King Edward VII Land blocked by Ice: Course set for McMurdo Sound: Arrival at Cape Royds, February 3 CHAPTER VI THE LANDING OF STORES AND EQUIPMENT FEBRUARY 3-22, 1908 Blizzard in McMurdo Sound, February 18-21: Nimrod sails for New Zealand, February 22 CHAPTER VII WINTER QUARTERS AT CAPE ROY DS OUTSIDE AND INSIDE View from Winter Quarters over the Sound and the Western Mountains: Field for Scientific Work: The Hut completed and Out-buildings erected: Interior arrangements: The bed question: Acetylene Gas-plant CHAPTER VIII SLEDGING EQUIPMENT Sledges: Cookers: Tents: Sleeping-bags: Clothing :;Ponies: Dogs and Food: Acknowledgment of Supplies presented to the Expedition by various Firms CHAPTER IX THE CONQUEST OF MOUNT EREBUS March 5: Party starts from Winter Quarters to ascend Mount Erebus: Camp 2750 ft. above Sea-level: March 8, altitude 5630 ft. and Depot made: Starch 7, Fierce Blizzard, Brockleharat badly frostbitten: March 8, Camp 11,400 ft.: March 9, Highest Point reached 13,370 ft.: Descent safely accomplished CHAPTER X WINTER QUARTERS DURING POLAR NIGHT 1908: NOTES ON SPRING SLEDGING JOURNEYS Meteorological Observations: The Anemometer: Night Watchman's Duties: Fierce Blizzard on March 13: Preliminary Journey on the Barrier Surface starts August 12: Hut Point reached August 14: Party starts for Hut Point on September 1, to leave there some Gear and Provisions in readiness for the Southern Journey CHAPTER XI THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY Preparation: Depot A laid: First Days of the March from Winter Quarters: Start from Hut Point, November 3 CHAPTER XII BEYOND ALL FORMER FOOTSTEPS NOVEMBER 10 TO DECEMBER 4 Steady Progress: The Sighting of New Land CHAPTER XIII ON THE GREAT GLACIER DECEMBER 5 TO 17 Appearance of a Bird in 83° 40' South Latitude: Our last Pony engulfed, Decembet 7: Dangerous travelling in a maze of Crevasses: Discovery of Coal at an altitude of 6100 ft CHAPTER XIV ON THE PLATEAU TO THE FARTHEST SOUTH DECEMBER 18, 1908, TO JANUARY 8, 1909 December 21, Midsummer Day, with 28° of. Frost: Christmas Day at an Altitude of 9500 ft. in Latitude 85° 55' South: Christmas Fare: Last Depot on January 4: Blinding Blizzard for two Days, January 7, 8: Altitude 11,600 ft. CHAPTER XV FARTHEST SOUTH JANUARY 9, 1909 The Union Jack planted in Latitude 88° 23' South, Longitude 16° East P. 210 CHAPTER XVI THE RETURN MARCH JANUARY 10 TO FEBRUARY 22 First Homeward Marches: Back on the Barrier: Attacks of Dysentery: Chinaman Depot reached February 13: Depot A reached February 20: Nearing Bluff Depot CHAPTER XVII THE FINAL STAGE FEBRUARY 23 TO MARCH 4 Bluff Depot reached: Marshall's Condition worse on February 26: Marshall and Adams remain in Camp while Shackleton and Wild make a Forced March to Hut Point: On board Nimrod: Relief Party start to bring in Marshall and Adams: All Safe on Board Ship March 4, 1908 CHAPTER XVIII SOME NOTES ON THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY "Turning Backs": Pony Soup The "Wild Roll": Frost-bite: Glacier Surfaces: Painful Falls: Particular Duties assigned to each Member of the Southern Party CHAPTER XIX RETURN OF THE NIMROD The Ship blocked by Ice off Beaufort Island: Mails landed Twenty-eight Miles from Cape Royds on January 3: Mackintosh and McGillan tra vel over Ice to Winter Quarters: Narrow Escapes: They reach Hut January 12 CHAPTER XX BLUFF DEPOT JOURNEY JANUARY 16 TO FEBRUARY 15, 1909 Dog-team with Load of 500 lb.: A Discovery Depot: Southern Party Overdue: Sledge-marks of Outward March of Southern Party found: Good Work by Dogs CHAPTER XXI NOTES ON THE WESTERN JOURNEY Christmas Day at Knob Head Mountain: In search of Fossils: Adrift on a Floe: Party Picked up by the Nimrod, January 26 CHAPTER XXII EXTRACTS FROM THE NARRATIVE OF PROFESSOR DAVID Final Instructions: Loss of a Cooker: Camp at Butter Point: Travelling over Sea-ice heavy Relay-work: Cooking with Blubber: Seal Bouillon: Dry. galski Glacier: Depot laid: Preparations for trek Inland: Depot at Mount Larsen: New Year's Day in Latitude 74' 18': Arrival at Magnetic Pole (mean position of) January 18, 1909, 72° 25' S., 155° 16' E.: Union Jack hoisted at 3.30 P.M. CHAPTER XXIII THE RETURN MARCH JANUARY 17 TO FEBRUARY 5 March of 250 Miles back to our Depot on Drygalski Glacier: Sugar in the Hoosh: A Question of Route: Ice Dongas: Nearing the Coast: A Barranca: Severe Climbing: Our Unhappy Lot: A Double Detonator: Mawson in a Crevasse: Afternoon Tea on board the Nimrod CHAPTER XXIV A BRIEF RETROSPECT total Distance Travelled: Travelling over Sea-ice: The Drygalski Glacier: Backstairs Passage: Results of Journey: How to spend a Week at the Magnetic Pole CHAPTER XXV ALL ABOARD: THE RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND An Oar Breaks: Disaster Averted: Last View of Winter Quarters: Supplies left at Cape Roy ds: New Coast-line: Anchored at Mouth of Lord's River, Stewart Island, March 22: Arrived Lyttelton, March 25, 1909 APPENDIXES I. SOME NOTES BY JAMES MURRAY, BIOLOGIST TO THE EXPEDITION II. SOUTHERN JOURNEY DISTANCES BY THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION |