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CHAPTER X WINTER QUARTERS DURING POLAR NIGHT 1908: NOTES ON SPRING SLEDGING JOURNEYS The
meteorological screen had been
set up and observations begun before the Erebus party left. Now that
all hands
were back at the hut, a regular system of recording the observations
was
arranged. Adams, who was the meteorologist of the expedition, took all
the
observations from 8 A.M. to 8 P.M. The night-watchman took them from 10
P.M. to
6 A.M. These observations were taken every two hours, and it may
interest the
reader to learn what was done in this way, though I do not wish to
enter here
into a lengthy dissertation on meteorology. The observations on air
temperature, wind, and direction of cloud have an important bearing on
similar
observations taken in more temperate climes, and in a place like the
Antarctic,
where up till now our knowledge has been so meagre, it was most
essential that
every bit of information bearing on meteorological phenomena should be
noted.
We were in a peculiarly favourable position for observing not only the
changes
that took place in the lower atmosphere but also those which took place
in the
higher strata of the atmosphere. Erebus, with steam and smoke always
hanging above
it, indicated by the direction assumed by the cloud what the upper
air-currents
were doing, and thus we were in touch with an excellent high-level
observatory. The instruments under Adams' care were as complete as financial considerations had permitted. The meteorological screen contained a maximum thermometer, that is, a thermometer which indicates the highest temperature reached during the period elapsing between two observations. It is so constructed that when the mercury rises in the tube it remains at its highest point, though the temperature might fall greatly shortly afterwards. After reading the recorded height, the thermometer is shaken, and this operation causes the mercury to drop to the actual temperature obtaining at the moment of observation; the thermometer is then put back into the screen and is all ready for the next reading taken two hours later. A minimum thermometer registered the lowest temperature that occurred between the two-hourly readings, but this thermometer was not a mercury one, as mercury freezes at a temperature of about 39° below zero, and we therefore used spirit thermometers. When the temperature drops the surface of the column of spirit draws down a little black indicator immersed in it, and if the temperature rises and the spirit advances in consequence, the spirit flows past the indicator, which remains at the lowest point, and on the observations being taken its position is read on the graduated scale. By these instruments we were always able to ascertain what the highest temperature and what the lowest temperature had been throughout the two hours during which the observation screen had not been visited. In addition to the maximum and minimum thermometers, there were the wet and dry bulb thermometers. The dry bulb records the actual temperature of the air at the moment, and we used a spirit thermometer for this purpose. The wet bulb consisted of an ordinary thermometer, round the bulb of which was tied a little piece of muslin that had been dipped in water and of course froze at once on exposure to the air. The effect of the evaporation from the ice which covered the bulb was to cause the temperature recorded to be lower than that recorded by the dry-bulb thermometer in proportion to the amount of water present in the atmosphere at the time. To ensure accuracy the wet bulb thermometers were changed every two hours, the thermometer which was read being brought back to the hut and returned to the screen later freshly sheathed in ice. It was, of course, impossible to wet the exposed thermometer with a brush dipped in water, as is the practice in temperate climates, for water could not be carried from the hut. to the screen without freezing into solid ice. To check the thermometers there was also kept in the screen a self-recording thermometer, or thermograph. This is a delicate instrument fitted with metal discs, which expand or contract readily with every fluctuation of the temperature. Attached to these discs is a delicately poised lever carrying a pen charged with ink, and the point of this pen rests against a graduated roll of paper fastened to a drum, which is revolved by clockwork once in every seven days. The pen thus draws a line on the paper, rising and falling in sympathy with the changes in the temperature of the air. THE "AURORA AUSTRALIS" In addition to
the meteorological
screen, there was another erection built on the top of the highest
ridge by
Mawson, who placed there an anemometer of his own construction to
register the
strength of the heaviest gusts of wind during a blizzard. We found that
the
squalls frequently blew with a force of over a hundred miles an hour.
There
remained still one more outdoor instrument connected with weather
observation,
that was the snow gauge. The Professor, by utilising some spare lengths
of
stove chimney, erected a snow gauge into which was collected the
falling snow
whenever a blizzard blew. The snow was afterwards taken into the hut in
the
vessel into which it had been deposited, and when it was melted down we
were
able to calculate fairly accurately the amount of the snowfall. This
observation was an important one, for much depends on the amount of
precipitation
in the Antarctic regions. It is on the precipitation in the form of
snow, and
on the rate of evaporation, that calculations regarding the formation
of the
huge snow-fields and glaciers depend. We secured our information
regarding the
rate of evaporation by suspending measured cubes of ice and snow from
rods
projecting at the side of the hut, where they were free from the
influence of
the interior warmth. Inside the hut was kept a standard mercurial
barometer,
which was also read every two hours, and in addition to this there was
a
barograph which registered the varying pressure of the atmosphere in a
curve
for a week at a time. Every Monday morning Adams changed the paper on
both
thermograph and barograph, and every day recorded the observations in
the meteorological
log. It will be seen that the meteorologist had plenty to occupy his
time, and
generally when the men came in from a walk they had some information to
record. As soon as the
ice was strong enough
to bear in the bay, Murray commenced his operations there. His object
was the
collection of the different marine creatures that rest on the bottom of
the sea
or creep about there, and he made extensive preparations for their
capture. A
hole was dug through the ice, and a trap let down to the bottom; this
trap was
baited with a piece of penguin or seal, and the shell-fish, crustacea,
and
other marine animals found their way in through the opening in the top,
and the
trap was usually left down for a couple of days. When it was hauled up,
the
contents were transferred to a tin containing water, and then taken to
the hut
and thawed out, for the contents always froze during the quarter of a
mile walk
homeward. As soon as the animals thawed out they were sorted into
bottles and
then killed by various chemicals, put into spirits and bottled up for
examination when they reached England. Later on Murray found that the
trap
business was not fruitful enough, so whenever a crack opened in the bay
ice, a
line was let down, one end being made fast at one end of the crack, and
the
length of the line allowed to sink in the water horizontally for a
distance of
sixty yards. A hole was dug at each end of the line and a small dredge
was let
down and pulled along the bottom, being hauled up through the hole at
the far
end. By this means much richer collections were made, and rarely did
the dredge
come up without some interesting specimens. When the crack froze over
again,
the work could still be continued so long as the ice was broken at each
end of
the line, and Priestley for a long time acted as Murray's assistant,
helping
him to open the holes and pull the dredge. When we took
our walks abroad, every
one kept his eyes open for any interesting specimen of rock or any
signs of
plant-life, and Murray was greatly pleased one day when we brought back
some
moss. This was found in a fairly sheltered spot beyond Back Door Bay
and was
the only specimen that we obtained in the neighbourhood of the winter
quarters
before the departure of the sun. Occasionally we came across a small
lichen and
some curious algae growing in the volcanic earth, but these measured
the extent
of the terrestrial vegetation in this latitude. In the north polar
regions, in
a corresponding latitude, there are eighteen different kinds of
flowering
plants, and there even exists a small stunted tree, a species of
willow. Although
terrestrial vegetation is
so scanty in the Antarctic, the same cannot be said of the sub-aqueous
plant-life. When we first arrived and some of us walked across the
north shore
of Cape Royds, we saw a great deal of open water in the lakes, and a
little
later, when all these lakes were frozen over, we walked across them,
and
looking down through the clear ice, could see masses of brilliantly
coloured
algae and fungi. The investigation of the plant-life in the lakes was
one of
the principal things undertaken by Murray, Priestley, and the Professor
during
the winter months. The reader has the plan of our winter quarters and
can
follow easily the various places that are mentioned in the course of
this
narrative. A GROUP OF THE SHORE PARTY AT THE WINTER QUARTERS Standing (from left): Joyce, Day, Wild, ADams, Brocklehurst, Shackleton, Marshall, David, Armitage, Marston Sitting: Priestley, Murray, Roberts After
the
Erebus party returned, a
regular winter routine was arranged for the camp. Brocklehurst took no
part in
the duties at this time, for his frost-bitten foot prevented his moving
about,
and shortly after his return Marshall saw that it would be necessary to
amputate at least part of the big toe. The rest of the party all had a
certain
amount of work for the common weal, apart from their own scientific
duties.
From the time we arrived we always had a night-watchman, and we now
took turns
to carry out this important duty. Roberts was exempt from
night-watchman's
duties, as he was busy with the cooking all day, so for the greater
part of the
winter every thirteenth night each member took the night watch. The
ten-o'clock
observations was the night-watchman's first duty, and from that hour
till nine
o'clock next morning he was responsible for the wellbeing and care of
the hut,
ponies, and dogs. His most important duties were the two-hourly
meteorological
observations, the upkeep of the fire and the care of the acetylene
gas-plant.
The fire was kept going all through the night, and hot water was ready
for
making the breakfast when Roberts was called at 7.30 in the morning.
The night
watch was by no means an unpleasant duty, and gave each of us an
opportunity,
when his turn came round, of washing clothes, darning socks, writing
and doing
little odd jobs which could not receive much attention during the day.
The
night-watchman generally took his bath either once a fortnight or once
a month,
as his inclination prompted him. Some
individuals had a regular
programme which they adhered to strictly. For instance, one member,
directly
the rest of the staff had gone to bed, cleared the small table in front
of the
stove, spread a rug on it and settled down to a complicated game of
patience,
having first armed himself with a supply of coffee against the wiles of
the
drowsy god. After the regulation number of games had been played, the
despatch-box was opened, and letters, private papers and odds and ends
were
carefully inspected and replaced in their proper order, after which the
journal
was written up. These important matters over, a ponderous book on
historical
subjects received its share of attention. Socks were the
only articles of
clothing that had constantly to be repaired, and various were the
expedients
used to replace the heels, which, owing to the hard footgear, were
always
showing gaping holes. These holes had to be constantly covered, for we
were not
possessed of an unlimited number of any sort of clothes, and many and
varied
were the patches. Some men used thin leather, others canvas, and others
again a
sort of coarse flannel to sew on instead of darning the heels of the
socks.
Towards the end of the winter, the wardrobes of the various members of
the
expedition were in a very patched condition. During the
earlier months the
night-watchman was kept pretty busy, for the ponies took a long time to
get
used to the stable and often tried to break loose and upset things out
there
generally. These sudden noises took the watchman out frequently during
the
night, and it was a comfort to us when the animals at last learned to
keep
fairly quiet in their stable. The individual was fortunate who obtained
a good
bag of coal for his night watch, with plenty of lumps in it, for there
was then
no difficulty in keeping the temperature of the hut up to 40° Fahr.,
but a
great deal of our coal was very fine and caused much trouble during the
night.
To meet this difficulty we had recourse to lumps of seal blubber, the
watchman
generally laying in a stock for himself before his turn came for night
duty.
When placed on top of the hot coal the blubber burned fiercely, and it
was a
comfort to know that with the large supply of seals that could easily
be
obtained in these latitudes, no expedition need fear the lack of
emergency
fuel. There was no perceptible smell from the blubber in burning,
though fumes
same from the bit of hairy hide generally attached to it. The thickness
of the
blubber varied from two to four inches. Some watchmen during the night
felt
disinclined to do anything but read and take the observations, and I
was
amongst this number, for though I often made plans and resolutions as
to
washing and other necessary jobs, when the time came, these plans fell
through,
with the exception of the bath. Towards the
middle of winter some of
our party stayed up later than during the time when there was more work
outside, and there gradually grew into existence an institution known
as eleven
o'clock tea. The Professor was greatly attached to his sup of tea and
generally
undertook the work of making it for men who were still out of bed. Some
of us
preferred a cup of hot fresh milk, which was easily made from the
excellent
dried milk of which we had a large quantity. By one o'clock in the
morning,
however, nearly all the occupants of the hut were wrapped in deep and
more or
less noisy slumber. Some had a habit of talking in their sleep, and
their
fitful phrases were carefully treasured up by the night-watchman for
retailing
at the breakfast-table next morning; sometimes also the dreams of the
night
before were told by the dreamer to his own great enjoyment, if not to
that of
his audience. About five o'clock in the morning came the most trying
time for
the watchman. Then one's eyes grew heavy and leaden, and it took a deal
of effort
to prevent oneself from falling fast asleep. Some of us went in for
cooking
more or less elaborate meals. Marshall, who had been to a school of
cookery
before we left England, turned out some quite respectable bread and
cakes.
Though people jeered at the latter when placed on the table, one
noticed that
next day there were never any left. At 7.30 A.M. Roberts was called,
and the
watchman's night was nearly over. At this hour also Armytage or Mackay
was
called to look after the feeding of the ponies, but before mid-winter
day
Armytage had taken over the entire responsibility of the stables and
ponies,
and he was the only one to get up. At 8.30 A.M. all hands were called,
special
attention being paid to turning out the messman for the day, and after
some minutes
of luxurious half-wakefulness, people began to get up, expressing their
opinions forcibly if the temperature of the hut was below
freezing-point, and
informing the night-watchman of his affinity to Jonah if his report was
that it
was a windy morning. Dressing was for some of the men a very simple
affair,
consisting merely in putting on their boots and giving themselves a
shake; others,
who undressed entirely, got out of their pyjamas into their cold
underclothing.
At a quarter to nine the call came to let down the table from its
position near
the roof, and the messman then bundled the knives, forks and spoons on
to the
board, and at nine o'clock sharp every one sat down to breakfast. The
night-watchman's duties were
over for a fortnight, and the messman took on his work. The duties of
the
messmau were more onerous than those of the night-watchman. He began,
as I have
stated, by laying the table — a simple operation owing to the primitive
conditions under which we lived. He then garnished this with three or
four
sorts of hot sauces to tickle the tough palates of some of our party.
At nine
o'clock, when we sat down, the messman passed up the bowls of porridge
and the
big jug of hot milk, which was the standing dish every day. Little was
heard in
the way of conversation until this first course had been disposed of.
Then came
the order from the messman, " Up bowls," and reserving our spoons for
future use, the bowls were passed along. If it were a " fruit day,"
that is, a day when the second course consisted of bottled fruit, the
bowls
were retained for this popular dish. At twenty-five
minutes to ten
breakfast was over and we had had our smokes. All dishes were passed
up, the
table hoisted out of the way, and the messman started to wash up the
breakfast-things, assisted by his cubicle companion and by one or two
volunteers who would help him to dry up. Another of the party swept out
the hut;
and this operation was performed three times a day, so as to keep the
building
in a tidy state. After finishing the breakfast-things, the duty of the
man in
the house was to replenish the melting-pots with ice, empty the ashes
and tins
into the dust-box outside, and get in a bag of coal. By half-past ten
the
morning work was accomplished and the messman was free until twenty
minutes to
one, when he put the water on for the mid-day tea. At one o'clock tea
was
served and we had a sort of counter lunch. This was a movable feast,
for
scientific and other duties often made some of our party late, and
after it was
over there was nothing for the messman to do in the afternoon except to
have
sufficient water ready to provide tea at four o'clock. At a quarter
past six
the table was brought down again and dinner, the longest meal of the
day, was
served sharp at 6.30. One often heard the messman anxiously inquiring
what the
dinner dishes were going to consist of, the most popular from his point
of view
being those which resulted in the least amount of grease on the plates.
Dinner
was over soon after seven o'clock and then tea was served. Tobacco and
conversation kept us at table until 7.30, after which the same routine
of
washing up and sweeping out the hut was gone through. By 8.30 the
messman had
finished his duties for the day, and his turn did not come round again
for
another thirteen days. The state of the weather made the duties lighter
or
heavier, for if the day happened to be windy, the emptying of
dish-water and
ashes and the getting in of fresh ice was an unpleasant job. In a
blizzard it
was necessary to put on one's Burberries even to walk the few yards to
the
ice-box and back. In addition to
the standing jobs of
night-watchman and mess-man there were also special duties for various
members
of the expedition who had particular departments to look after. Adams
every
morning, directly after breakfast, wound up the chronometers and
chronometer
watches, and rated the instruments. He then attended to the
meteorological work
and took out his pony for exercise. If he were going far afield he
delegated
the readings to some members of the scientific staff who were generally
in the
vicinity of winter quarters. Marshall, as surgeon, attended to any
wounds, and
issued necessary pills, and then took out one of the ponies for
exercise. Wild,
who was storekeeper, was responsible for the issuing of all stores to
Roberts,
and had to open the cases_of tinned food and dig out of the snowdrifts
in which
it was buried the meat required for the day, either penguin, seal, or
mutton.
Joyce fed the dogs after breakfast, the puppies getting a dish of
scraps over
from our meals after breakfast and after dinner. When daylight returned
after
our long night, he worked at training the dogs to pull a sledge every
morning.
The Professor generally went off to " geologise " or to continue the
plane-table survey of our winter quarters, whilst Priestley and Murray
worked
on the floe dredging or else took the temperatures of the ice in shafts
which
the former had energetically sunk in the various lakes around us.
Mawson was
occupied with his physical work, which included auroral observations
and the
study of the structure of the ice, the determination of atmospheric
electricity
and many other things. In fact, we were all busy, and there was little
cause
for us to find the time hang heavy on our hands; the winter months sped
by and
this without our having to sleep through them, as has often been done
before by
polar expeditions. This was due to the fact that we were only a small
party and
that our household duties, added to our scientific work, fully occupied
our
time. THE TYPE-CASE AND PRINTING PRESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF THE "AURORA AUSTRALIS" IN JOYCE'S AND WILD'S CUBICLE, KNOWN AS "THE ROGUES' RETREAT" It would only
be repetition to
chronicle our doings from day to day during the months that elapsed
from the
disappearance of the sun until the time arrived when the welcome
daylight came
back to us. We lived under conditions of steady routine, affected only
by short
spells of bad weather, and found amply sufficient to occupy ourselves
in our
daily work, so that the spectre known as " polar ennui " never made
its appearance. Mid-winter's day and birthdays were the occasions of
festivals,
when our teetotal regime was broken through and a sort of mild spree
indulged
in. Before the sun finally went hockey and football were the outdoor
games,
while indoors at night some of us played bridge, poker, and dominoes.
Joyce,
Wild, Marston, and Day during the winter months spent much time in the
production
of the "Aurora Australia," the first book ever written, printed,
illustrated, and bound in the Antarctic. Through the generosity of
Messrs.
Joseph Causton and Sons, Limited, we had been provided with a complete
printing
outfit and the necessary paper for the book, and Joyce and Wild had
been given
instruction in the art of type-setting and printing, Marston being
taught
etching and lithography. They had hardly become skilled craftsmen, but
they had
gained a good working knowledge of the branches of the business. When
we had
settled down in the winter quarters, Joyce and Wild set up the little
hand-press and sorted out the type, these preliminary operations taking
up all
their spare time for some days, and then they started to set and print
the
various contributions that were sent in by members of the expedition.
The early
days of the printing department were not exactly happy, for the two
amateur
typesetters found themselves making many mistakes, and when they had at
last
"set up" a page, made all the necessary corrections, and printed off
the required number of copies, they had to undertake the laborious work
of
"dissing," that is, of distributing the type again. They plodded
ahead steadily, however, and soon became more skilful, until at the end
of a
fortnight or three weeks they could print two pages in a day. A lamp
had to be
placed under the type-rack to keep it warm, and a lighted candle was
put under
the inking-plate, so that the ink would keep reasonably thin in
consistency.
The great trouble experienced by the printers at first was in securing
the
right pressure on the printing-plate and even inking of the page, but
experience showed them where they had been at fault. Day meanwhile
prepared the
binding by cleaning, planing, and polishing wood taken from the Venesta
cases-in which our provisions were packed. Marston reproduced the
illustrations
by algraphy, or printing from aluminium plates. He had not got a proper
lithographing press, so had to use an ordinary etching press, and he
was
handicapped by the fact that all our water had a trace of salt in it.
This
mineral acted on the sensitive plates, but Marston managed to produce
what we
all regarded as creditable pictures. In its final form the book had
about one
hundred and twenty pages, and it had at least assisted materially to
guard us
from the danger of lack of occupation during the polar night. On March 13 we
experienced a very
fierce blizzard. The hut shook and rocked in spite of our sheltered
position,
and articles that we had left lying loose outside were scattered far
and wide.
Even cases weighing from fifty to eighty pounds were shifted from where
they
had been resting, showing the enormous velocity of the wind. When the
gale was
over we put everything that was likely to blow away into positions of
greater
safety. It was on this day also that Murray found living microscopical
animals
on some fungus that had been thawed out from a lump of ice taken from
the
bottom of one of the lakes. This was one of the most interesting
biological
discoveries that had been made in the Antarctic, for the study of these
minute
creatures occupied our biologist for a great part of his stay in the
south, and
threw a new light on the capability of life to exist under conditions
of
extreme cold and in the face of great variations of temperature. We all
became
vastly interested in the rotifers during our stay, and the work of the
biologist in this respect was watched with keen attention. From our
point of
view there was an element of humour in the endeavours of Murray to slay
the
little animals he had found. He used to thaw them out from a block of
ice,
freeze them up again, and repeat this process several times without
producing
any result as far as the rotifers were concerned. Then he tested them
in brine
so strongly saline that it would not freeze at a temperature above
minus 7°
Fahr., and still the animals lived. A good proportion of them survived
a
temperature of 200° Fahr. It became a contest between rotifers and
scientist,
and generally the rotifers seemed to triumph. At the end of
March there was still
open water in the bay and we observed a killer whale chasing a seal.
About this
time we commenced digging a trench in Clear Lake and obtained, when we
came to
water, samples of the bottom mud and fungus, which was simply swarming
with
living organisms. The sunsets at the beginning of April were wonderful;
arches
of prismatic colours, crimson and golden-tinged clouds, hung in the
heavens
nearly all day, for time was going on and soon the sun would have
deserted us.
The days grew shorter and shorter, and the twilight longer. During
these
sunsets the western mountains stood out gloriously and the summit of
Erebus was
wrapped in crimson when the lower slopes had faded into grey. To Erebus
and the
western mountains our eyes turned when the end of the long night grew
near in
the month of August, for the mighty peaks are the first to catch up and
tell
the tale of the coming glory and the last to drop the crimson mantle
from their
high shoulders as night draws on. Tongue and pencil would sadly fail in
attempting to describe the magic of the colouring in the days when the
sun was
leaving us. The very clouds at this time were iridescent with rainbow
hues. The
sunsets were poems. The change from twilight into night, sometimes lit
by a
crescent moon, was extraordinarily beautiful, for the white cliffs gave
no part
of their colour away, and the rocks beside them did not part with their
blackness, so the effect of deepening night over these contrasts was
singularly
weird. In my diary I noted that throughout April hardly a day passed
without an
auroral display. On more than one occasion the auroral showed distinct
lines of
colour, merging from a deep red at the base of the line of light into a
greenish hue on top. About the beginning of April the temperature began
to drop
considerably, and for some days in calm, still weather the thermometer
often
registered 40° below zero. On April 6,
Marshall decided that it
was necessary to amputate Brocklehurat's big toe, as there was no sign
of it
recovering like the other toes from the frost-bite he had received on
the
Erebus journey. The patient was put under chloroform and the operation
was
witnessed by an interested and sympathetic audience. After the bone had
been
removed, the sufferer was shifted into my room, where he remained till
just
before Midwinter's Day, when he was able to get out and move about
again. We
had about April 8 one of the peculiar southerly blizzards so common
during our
last expedition, the temperature varying rapidly from minus 23° to plus
4°
Fahr. This blizzard continued till the evening of the 11th, and when it
had
abated we found the bay and sound clear of ice again. I began to feel
rather
worried about this and wished for it to freeze over, for across the ice
lay our
road to the south. We observed occasionally about this time that
peculiar phenomenon
of McMurdo Sound called "earth shadows." Long dark bars, projected up
into the sky from the western mountains, made their appears nee at
sunrise.
These lines are due to the shadow of the giant Erebus being cast across
the
western mountains. Our days were now getting very short and the amount
of
daylight was a negligible quantity. We boarded up the remainder of the
windows,
and depended entirely upon the artificial light in the winter quarters.
The
light given by the acetylene gas was brilliant, the four burners
lighting the
whole of the hut. When daylight
returned and sledging
began about the middle of August, on one of our excursions on the Cape
Royds
peninsula, we found growing under volcanic earth a large quantity of
fungus.
This was of great interest to Murray, as plant-life of any sort is
extremely
rare in the Antarctic. Shortly after this a strong blizzard cast up a
quantity
of seaweed on our ice-foot; this was another piece of good fortune, for
on the
last expedition we obtained very little seaweed. When
Midwinter's Day had passed and
the twilight, that presaged the return of the sun began to be more
marked day
by day, I set on foot the arrangements for the sledging work in the
forthcoming
spring. It was desirable that, at as early a date as possible, we
should place
a depot of stores at a point to the south, in preparation for the
departure of
the Southern Party, which was to march towards the Pole. I hoped to
make this
depot at least one hundred miles from the winter quarters. Then it was
desirable
that we should secure some definite information regarding the condition
of the
snow surface on the Barrier, and I was also anxious to afford the
various
members of the expe- dition some practice in sledging before the
serious work
commenced. Some of us had been in the Antarctic before, but the
majority of the
men had not yet had any experience of marching and camping on snow and
ice, in
low temperatures. THE AUTUMN SUNSET During the
winter I had given a
great deal of earnest consideration to the question of the date at
which the
party that was to march towards the Pole should start from the hut. The
goal
that we hoped to attain lay over 880 statute miles to the south, and
the brief
summer was all too short a time in which to march so far into the
unknown and
return to winter quarters. The ship would have to leave for the north
about the
end of February, for the ice would then be closing in, and, moreover,
we could
not hope to carry on our sledges much more than a three months' supply
of
provisions, on anything like full rations. I finally decided that the
Southern
Party should leave the winter quarters about October 28, for if we
started
earlier it was probable that the ponies would suffer from the severe
cold at nights,
and we . would gain no advantage from getting away early in the season
if, as a
result, the ponies were incapacitated before we had made much progress.
The date for
the departure of the
Southern Party having been fixed, it became necessary to arrange for
the laying
of the depot during the early spring, and I thought that the first step
towards
this should be a preliminary journey on the Barrier surface, in order
to gain
an idea of the conditions that would be met with, and to ascertain
whether the
motor-car would be of service, at any rate for the early portion of the
journey. The sun had not yet returned and the temperature was very low
indeed,
but we had proved in the course of the Discovery
expedition that it is quite possible to travel under these conditions.
I
therefore started on this preliminary journey on August 12, taking with
me
Professor David, who was to lead the Northern Party towards the South
Magnetic
Pole, and Bertram Armytage, who was to take charge of the party that
was to
make a journey into the mountains of the west later in the year. The
reader can
imagine that it was not with feelings of unalloyed pleasure that we
turned our
backs on the warm, well-found hut and faced our little journey out into
the
semi-darkness and intense cold, but we did get a certain amount of
satisfaction
from the thought that at last we were actually beginning the work we
had come
south to undertake. We were
equipped for a fortnight
with provisions and camp gear, packed on one sledge, and had three
gallons of
petroleum in case we should decide to stay out longer. A gallon of oil
will
last a party of three men for about ten days under ordinary conditions,
and we
could get more food at Hut Point if we required it. We took three
one-man
sleeping-bags, believing that they would be sufficiently warm in spite
of the
low temperature. The larger bags, holding two or three men, certainly
give
greater warmth, for the occupants warm one another, but, on the other
hand,
one's rest is very likely to be disturbed by the movements of a
companion. We
were heavily clothed for this trip, because the sun would not rise
above the
horizon until another ten days had passed. Our comrades
turned out to see us
off, and the pony Quan pulled the sledge with our camp gear over the
sea ice
until we got close to the glacier south of Cape Barne, about five miles
from
the winter quarters. Then he was sent back, for the weather was growing
thick,
and, as already explained, I did not want to run any risk of losing
another
pony from our sadly diminished team. We proceeded close in by the
skuary, and a
little further on pitched camp for lunch. Professor David, whose thirst
for
knowledge could not be quenched, immediately went off to investigate
the
geology of the neighbourhood. After lunch we started to pull our sledge
round
the coast towards Hut Point, but the weather became worse, making
progress
difficult, and at 6 P.M. we camped close to the tide-crack at the south
side of
Turk's Head. We slept well and soundly, although the temperature was
about
forty degrees below zero, and the experience made me more than ever
convinced
of the superiority of one-man sleeping-bags. On the
following morning, August 13,
we marched across to Glacier Tongue, having to cross a wide crack that
had been
ridged up by ice-pressure betweem Tent Island and the Tongue. As soon
as we had
crossed we saw the depot standing up clear against the sky-line on the
Tongue.
This was the depot that had been made by the ship soon after our first
arrival
in the sound. We found no difficulty in getting on to the Tongue, for a
fairly
gentle slope led up from the sea-ice to the glacier surface. The snow
had blown
over from the south during the winter and made a good way. We found the
depot
intact, though the cases, lying on the ice, had been bleached to a
light yellow
colour by the wind and sun. We had lunch on the south side of the
Tongue, and
found there another good way down to the sea ice. There is a very
awkward crack
on the south side, but this can hardly be called a tide-crack. I think
it is
due to the fact that the tide has more effect on the sea ice than on
the heavy
mass of the Tongue, though there is no doubt this also is afloat; the
rise and
fall of the two sections of ice are not coincident, and a crack is
produced.
The unaccustomed pulling made us tired, and we decided to pitch a camp
about
four miles off Hut Point, before reaching Castle Rock. Castle Rock is
distant
three miles and a half from Hut Point, and we had always noticed that
after we
got abeam of the rock the final march on to the hut seemed very long,
for we
were always weary by that time. PREPARING A SLEDGE DURING THE WINTER We climbed to
the top of Crater Hill
with a collecting-bag and the Professor's camera, and here we took some
photographs and made an examination of the cone. Professor David
expressed the
opinion that the ice-sheet had certainly passed over this hill, which
is about
1100 ft. high, for there was distinct evidence of glaciation. We
climbed along
the ridge to Castle Rock, about four miles to the north, and made an
examination of the formation there. Then wtS returned to the hut to
have a
square meal and get ready for our journey across the Barrier. The old hut had
never been a very
cheerful place, even when we were camped alongside it in the Discovery, and it looked doubly
inhospitable now, after having stood empty and neglected for six years.
One
side was filled with cases of biscuit and tinned meat, and the snow
that had
found its way in was lying in great piles around the walls. There was
no stove,
for this had been taken away with the Discovery,
and coal was scattered about the floor with other debris and rubbish.
Besides
the biscuits and the tinned beef and mutton there was some tea and
coffee
stored in the hut. We cleared a spot on which to sleep, and decided
that we
would use the cases of biscuit and meat to build another hut inside the
main
one, so that the quarters would be a little more cosy. I proposed to
use this
hut as a stores depot in connection with the southern journey, for if
the ice
broke out in the Sound unexpectedly early, it would be difficult to
convey
provisions from Cape Royds to the Barrier, and, moreover, Hut Point was
twenty
miles further south than our winter quarters. We spent that night on
the floor
of the hut, and slept fairly comfortably, though not as well as on the
previous
night in the tent, because we were not so close to one another. On the morning
of the following day
(August 15) we started away about 9 A.M., crossed the smooth ice to
Winter
Harbour, and passed close round Cape Armitage. We there found cracks
and
pressed-up ice, showing that there had been Barrier movement, and about
three
miles further on we crossed the spot at which the sea ice joins the
Barrier,
ascending a slope about eight feet high. Directly we got on to the
Barrier ice
we noticed undulations on the surface. We pushed along and got to a
distance of
about twelve miles from Hut Point in eight hours. The surface generally
was
hard, but there were very marked sastrugi, and at times patches of soft
snow.
The conditions did not seem favourable for the use of the motor-car
because we
had already found that the machine could not go through soft snow for
more than
a few yards, and I foresaw that if we brought it out on to the Barrier
it would
not be able to do much in the soft surface that would have to be
traversed. The
condition of the surface varied from mile to mile, and it would be
impracticable to keep changing the wheels of the car in order to meet
the
requirements of each new surface. The temperature
was very low,
although the weather was fine. At 6 P.M. the thermometer showed
fifty-six
degrees below zero, and the petroleum used for the lamp had become
milky in
colour and of a creamy consistency. That night the temperature fell
lower
still, and the moisture in our sleeping-bags, from our breath and
Burberries,
made us very uncomfortable wheb the bags had thawed out with the warmth
of our
bodies. Everything we touched was appallingly cold, and we got no sleep
at all.
The next morning (August 16) the weather was threatening, and there
were
indications of the approach of a blizzard, and I therefore decided to
march
back to Hut Point, for there was no good purpose to be served by taking
unnecessary risks at that stage of the expedition. We had some warm
food, of
which we stood sorely in need after the severe night, and then started
at 8 A.M.
to return to Hut Point. By hard marching, which had the additional
advantage of
warming us up, we reached the old hut again at three o'clock that
afternoon,
and we were highly delighted to get into its shelter. The sun had not
yet
returned, and though there was a strong light in the sky during the
day, the
Barrier was not friendly under winter conditions. We reached the
hut none too soon,
for a blizzard sprang up, and for some days we had to remain in
shelter. We
utilised the time by clearing up the portion of the hut that we
proposed to
use, even sweeping it with an old broom we found, and building a
shelter of the
packing-cases, piling them right up to the roof round a space about
twenty feet
by ten; and thus we made comparatively cosy quarters. We rigged a table
for the
cooking-gear, and put everything neatly in order. My two companions
were, at
this time, having their first experience of polar life under marching
conditions as far as equipment was concerned, and they were gaining
knowledge
that proved very useful to them on the later journeys. On the morning
of August 22, the day
on which the sun once more appeared above the horizon, we started back
for the
winter quarters, leaving Hut Point at 5 A.M. in the face of a bitterly
cold
wind from the north-east, with low drift. We marched without a stop for
nine
miles, until we reached Glacier Tongue, and then had an early lunch. An
afternoon march of fourteen miles took us to the winter quarters at
Cape Royds,
where we arrived at 5 P.M. We were not expected at the hut, for the
weather was
thick and windy, but our comrades were delighted to see us, and we had
a hearty
dinner and enjoyed the luxury of a good bath. THE LEADER OF THE EXPEDITION IN WINTER GARB On September 1,
Wild, Day, and
Priestley started for Hut Point via Glacier Tongue with 450 lb. of gear
and
provisions, their instructions being to leave 230 lb. of provisions at
the Discovery hut in readiness for
the
southern journey. They made a start at 10.20 A.M., being accompanied by
Brocklehurst with a pony for the first five miles. The weather was
fine, but a
very low barometer gave an indication that bad weather was coming. I
did not
hesitate to let these parties face bad weather, because the road they
were to
travel was well known, and a rough experience would be very useful to
the men
later in the expedition's work. The party camped in the snow close to
the south
side of Glacier Tongue. Next morning
(September 2) the
weather was still bad, and they were not able to make a start until
after noon.
At 1.20 P.M. they ran out of the northerly wind into light southerly
airs with
intervals of calm, and they noticed that at the meeting of the two
winds the
clouds of drift were formed into whirling columns, some of them over
forty feet
high. They reached the Discovery
hut
at 4.30 P.M., and soon turned in, the temperature being forty degrees
below
zero. When they dressed at 5.30 A.M. (September 3) they found that a
southerly
wind with heavy drift rendered a start on the return journey
inadvisable. After
breakfast they walked over to Observation Hill, where they examined a
set of
stakes which Ferrar and Wild had placed in the Gap glacier in 1902. The
stakes
showed that the movement of the glacier during the six years since the
stakes
had been put mto position had amounted to a few inches only. The middle
stake
had advanced eight inches and those next it on either side about six
inches. At
noon the wind dropped, and although the drift was still thick, the
party
started back, steering by the sastrugi till the Tongue was reached.
They camped
for the night in the lee of the glacier, with a blizzard blowing over
them and
the temperature rising, the result being that everything was
uncomfortably wet.
They managed to sleep, however, and when they awoke the next morning
the
weather was clear, and they had an easy march in, being met beyond Cape
Barne
by Joyce, Brocklehurst, and the dogs. They had been absent four days. Each party came
back with adventures
to relate, experiences to compare, and its own views on various matters
of
detail connected with sledge-travelling. Curiously enough, every one of
the
parties encountered bad weather, but there were no accidents, and all
the men
seemed to enjoy the work. Early in September a party consisting of Adams, Marshall, and myself started for Hut Point, and we decided to make one march of the twenty-three miles, and not camp on the way. We started at 8 A.M., and when we were nearly at the end of the journey, and were struggling slowly through bad snow towards the hut, close to the end of Hut Point, a strong blizzard came up. Fortunately I knew the bearings of the hut, and how to get over the ice-foot. We abandoned the extra weights we were pulling for the depot, and managed to get to the hut at 10 P.M. in a sorely frost-bitten condition, almost too tired to move. We were able to get ourselves some hot food, however, and were soon all right again. I mention the incident merely to show how constantly one has to be on guard against the onslaughts of the elements in the inhospitable regions of the south. |