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CHAPTER XXIII THE RETURN MARCH JANUARY 17 TO FEBRUARY 5 March of 250 Miles back to our Depot on Drygalski Glacier: Sugar in the Hoosh: A Question of Route: Ice Dongas: Nearing the Coast: A Barranea: Severe Climbing: Our Unhappy Lot: A Double Detonator: Mawson in a Crevasse: Afternoon Tea on board the Nimrod I called the
camp a little before 10
A.M. the following morning. We now discussed the situation and our
chances of
catching the Nimrod, if she came in
search of us along the coast in the direction of our depot on the
Drygalski
Glacier. We had agreed, before we decided to do the extra four days'
march to
the shifted position of the Magnetic Pole, that on our return journey
we would
do not less than thirteen miles a day. At the Magnetic Pole we were
fully 260
statute miles distant, as the skua flies, from our depot on the
Drygalski
Glacier. As we had returned eleven of these miles on the day previous,
we still
had 249 miles to cover. We accordingly decided to try and get back to
our
Drygalski depot by February 1. This gave us fifteen days. Consequently
we would
have to average sixteen and two-third miles a day in order to reach the
coast
in the time specified. This, of course, did not allow for any delay on
account
of blizzards, and we had seen from the evidence of the large sastrugi
that
blizzards of great violence must occasionally blow in these quarters,
and from
the direction of the sastrugi during our last few days' march it was
clear that
the dominant direction of the blizzard would be exactly in our teeth.
The
prospect, therefore, of reaching our depot in the specified time did
not appear
bright. Providentially we had most beautiful and glorious weather for
our start
on January 17. It remained fine for the whole day, and we were greatly
favoured
by a light wind which now blew from between north-west and
west-north-west--a
perfectly fair wind for our journey. In fact the wind changed direction
with
us. It had helped us
by blowing from the southeast, just before we reached the Magnetic
Pole, and
now it was blowing in the opposite direction, helping us home. That
day, in
spite of the late start, we sledged sixteen miles. On January 18
the weather again was
fine, and we had a hard day's sledging. Unfortunately Mawson's left leg
became
very lame and pained him a good deal. Our run for the day was sixteen
miles two
hundred yards. This was the end of my week's cooking, and we were able
to
indulge that night in a fairly abundant hoosh, also in very milky and
sweet
cocoa, and Mackay admitted that he actually felt moderately full after
it for
the first time since we had left the Drygalski Depot. The following
day, January 19, we
boiled the hypsometer at our camp, and found the level to be about 7350
ft.
above the sea. The boiling-point was 196.75° Fahr. That morning we had
quite an
unusual diversion. Mawson, who is a bold culinary experimenter, being
messman
for the week, tried the experiment of surreptitiously introducing a
lump of
sugar into the pemmican. Mackay detected an unusual flavour in the
hoosh, and
cross-questioned Mawson severely on the subject. Mawson admitted a lump
of
sugar. Mackay was thereupon roused to a high pitch of indignation, and
stated
that this awful state of affairs was the result of going out sledging
with
"two foreigners." We had a great struggle that day to make our
sixteen miles, but we just managed it. Owing to some
miscalculation, for
which I was responsible, we discovered that we had no tea for this
week, our
sixth week out, unless we took it out of the tea-bag for the seventh
week.
Accordingly we halved the tea in the seventh week bag, and determined
to
collect our old tea-bags at each of our old camps as we passed them,
and boil
these bags together with the small pittance of fresh tea. And here I
may mention
the tastes of the party in the matter of tea somewhat differed. Mackay
liked
his tea thoroughly well and long boiled, whereas Mawson and I liked it
made by
just bringing the water to the boil; as soon as we smelt the aroma of
tea
coming from underneath the outer lid of the cooker we used to shut off
the
primus lamp immediately and decant the tea into the pannikins. Mackay
had
always objected to this procedure when we were sledging along the sea
ice where
water boils at about 212° Fahr.; now, however, he had a strong
scientific
argument in his favour for keeping the pot boiling for a few minutes
after the
tea had been put in. He pointed out that at our present altitude water
boiled
at just over 196° Fahr., a temperature which he maintained was
insufficient to
extract the proper juices and flavour from the tea, unless the boiling
was very
much prolonged. Mawson, however, averred —
on chemical and physical grounds — that with
the diminished atmospheric pressure certain virtuous constituents of
the tea
could be extracted at a lower temperature. The discussion was highly
scientific
and exhilarating, though not very finite. It was agreed as a compromise
to
allow the boiling to continue for three or four minutes after the water
had
come to the boil before the tea was poured out. As in our progress
coastwards
we were continually coming upon more old tea-bags at our old camps, and
always
collected these and did not throw away any that had been used before we
soon
had quite an imposing collection of muslin bags with old tea leaves,
and with
the thorough boiling that they now got there wail a strong flavour of
muslin
super-added to that of old tea. Nevertheless this drink was nectar. January 20.
We were still able to-day to follow our sledge tracks, which was a
great blessing,
the magnetic needle being of so little use to us. We had the wind
slightly
against us, bringing up a little low drift. Again we made our
sixteen-mile run,
though with great difficulty, for the wind had been blowing freshly all
day on
our starboard bow. In view of the
good progress that we
had made, and after carefully calculating out the provisions left over,
Mawson,
who was at this time messman, proposed that we should return to nearly
full
rations, as we were becoming much exhausted through insufficient food.
This
proposal was, of course, hailed with delight. On January 21
there was a light wind
with low temperature, clear sky and hot sun, which combined to
consolidate the
surface over which we were sledging. By this time Mackay and Mawson's
raw lips,
which had been cracked and bleeding for about a fortnight previously,
were now
much better. Mawson's lame leg had also improved. Again we did our
sixteen-mile
run. January 22.
We were up soon after 7 A.M. It was a clear day with bright sunshine.
The wind
started soon after 5 A.nt., constantly freshening, as it usually did in
this
part of the plateau, till about 3 P.M. Then it gradually died down by
about 10
p.m. The temperature at 7.15 A.M. was minus 20° Fahr., and at this
altitude we
found the wind very trying. To-day we had to sledge over a great deal
of
pie-crust snow, which was very fatiguing. We had since the day before
yesterday
lost our old sledge tracks. To-day we sledged fifteen miles. January 23.
The weather was bright and cold with a light southerly wind. This day
was very
fatiguing, the sledging being over patches of soft snow and pie-crust
snow. At
the same time we were conscious that although we were sledging up and
down wide
undulations we were on the whole going down hill, and the new mountain
(first
seen by Mackay on January 21) was already showing up as an impressive
massif.
The air was cold and piercing. Mawson's right leg was still painful.
That night
we were all very much exhausted, and were obliged to allow ourselves
fully eight
hours' sleep. Our run was sixteen miles. January 24.
To-day we had more heavy sledging over a lot of pie-crust snow and soft
snow.
The wind was blowing somewhat against us at about twelve miles an hour,
the
temperature being minus 4 Fahr. in the afternoon. A low drift was
sweeping in
waves over the snow desert; it was a desolate scene. Later in the day
we were
cheered by the sight of Mount Baxter. Towards evening
we had some
discussion as to whether we were following approximately our old
out-going
tracks. Mackay thought we were nearer to the new mountain than before,
I
thought we were farther to the south-west, Mawson, who was leading,
contended
that we were pretty well on our old course. Just then I discovered that
we were
actually on our old sledge tracks, which showed up plainly for a short
distance
between the newly formed sastrugi. This spoke volumes for Mawson's
skill as a
navigator. Distance sledged sixteen miles. January 25.
It was blowing a mild blizzard. We estimated at lunch time that we were
about
eighty and a half miles distant now from our Mount Larsen Depot. The
temperature during the afternoon was minus 3° Fahr. We all felt, as
usual, much
fatigued after the day's sledging. For the past four or five days we
each took
an Easton syrup tabloid for the last stage but one before reaching
camp, and
this certainly helped to keep us going. This evening the blizzard died
down
about 8 P.M., and Mount Nansen was sighted just before we camped. January 26.
We lost our old sledge tracks again to-day. The weather turned cloudy
in the
afternoon, and the light was very bad. We now reached a surface of hard
marble-like aye, which descended by short steep slopes. We did not at
first
realise that we were about to descend what we had termed the Ice Falls
on the outward
journey. Every now and then the sledge would take charge and rush down
this
marble staircase, bumping very heavily over the steps. Mawson and I
frequently came
heavy croppers. Mawson put on crampons outside his finnesko to enable
him to
get a grip of the slippery surface, but my crampons were frozen so hard
and so
out of shape that I was unable to get them on, so I followed behind and
steadied the sledge as it continued bumping its way down the marble
steps. At
last we reached once more a flattened surface and camped. Our run for
the day
was fourteen and a half miles. January 27.
This morning we all felt very slack after the night spent in the
closely
covered sleeping-bag, the sky at the time being cloudy. During the
morning fine
snow fell and the weather was quite thick to the south and east of us.
Mawson
steered us by the trend of the sastrugi. As the day wore on, the
weather
cleared up and we had a good view of the new mountain, Mount New
Zealand, and
Mount Baxter. The pulling at first was very hard, being up-hill, but
later we
had a good run down hill to the spot where we camped for lunch. After
lunch we
sledged down a still steeper slope, the sledge occasionally taking
charge. At
this spot Mackay partially fell into a crevasse. To-day we were much
cheered by
the sight at last of Mount Larsen. By the time we reached the spot
where we
camped that night we had a good clear view of Larsen. The distance
travelled
was sixteen miles. We were now only about forty miles from our Mount
Larsen
Depot. January 28.
We turned out of the sleeping-bag to-day at about 6.30 A.M. A blizzard
was
blowing, and after breakfast we had much difficulty in the cold wind in
getting
up the mast and sail. Mackay, who usually did the greater part of this
work,
got his hands rather badly frost-bitten before our preparations were
completed.
We used the thick green canvas floor-cloth as a sail; the tent-poles
served us
for a mast, and a piece of bamboo did duty as a yard. The wind was
blowing at, perhaps,
about twenty-five miles an hour, and as soon as we started the sledge,
it began
to travel at such a hot pace that Mackay and Mawson, with their long
legs, were
kept walking at the top of their speed, while I, with my shorter ones,
was kept
on a jog trot. Occasionally, in an extra strong puff of wind, the
sledge took
charge. On one of these occasions it suddenly charged into me from
behind,
knocked my legs from under me, and nearly juggernauted me. I was
quickly
rescued from this undignified position under the sledge runners by
Mawson and
Mackay. We had now arrived at a part of the plateau where the
monotonous level
or gently undulating surface gave place to sharp descents. It was
necessary in
these cases for one of us to untoggle from the front of the sledge and
to
toggle on behind, so as to steer and steady it. About noon, when we
were in
full career, the bow of the sledge struck one of the high sastrugi
obliquely
and the sledge was capsized heavily, but fortunately nothing was
broken. After
righting the sledge, we camped for lunch. At lunch, with
a faint hope of
softening the stern heart of our messman for the week — Mackay — and
inducing
him to give us an extra ration of food, I mildly informed him that it
was my
birthday. He took the hint and we all fared sumptuously at lunoh and
dinner
that day. The day's run was twenty miles. It had been one of the most
fatiguing
days that we had as yet experienced, and we were all utterly exhausted
when we
turned into our sleeping-bag at 8.30 P.M. January 29.
We were up at about 8 A.nr., and found that the plateau wind was still
blowing
at a speed of about fifteen miles an hour. After our experience of the
preceding day we decided that we would not make sail on the sledge, and
as a
matter of fact, found that pulling the sledge in the ordinary way was
far less
wearying than the sailing had proved the preceding day. We pulled on
steadily
hour after hour, and Mounts Nansen and Larsen grew every moment clearer
and
larger, and we began to hope that we might be able to reach our depot
at Mount
Larsen that night. But later in the day, Mawson's sprained leg caused
him a
good deal of pain, and we had almost decided to camp at a point nearly
twenty
miles from our preceding camp, when Mackay's sharp eyes sighted, at a
distance
of about a mile, our little blue flag, tied to the ice-axe at our
depot. We
soon reached the depot, fixed up the tent, had a good hoosh, and turned
into
the sleeping-bag past midnight. We were up at 9
A.M. on January 30.
The day was sunny, but ominous clouds were gathering overhead as well
as to the
south. After breakfast we collected the material at our depot, chiefly
ski
boots, ice-axes, oil, a little food, and geological specimens, and
loaded these
on to our sledge. We found that, owing to the alternate thawing and
freezing of
the snow at our depot, our ski boots were almost filled with solid ice.
The
work of chipping out this ice proved a slow and tedious job, and we did
not get
started until about 11 A.M. Soon after we got going we found ourselves
for a
time in a meshwork of crevasses. These, were from a foot up to about
twenty
feet in width. After crossing
a number of
crevasses, we discovered that the wheel of our sledge meter had
disappeared.
Probably it had got into one of the crevasses, and gone to the bottom.
As we
were now so close to the end of our journey, the loss of this, which
earlier in
our travels would have been a serious disaster, was not of much
importance. We
had run about eight miles before we discovered the loss of our sledge
meter
wheel. At lunch-time Mawson compounded a wonderful new hoosh made out
of seal
liver, pounded up with a geological hammer, and mixed with crushed
biscuit. We had some
discussion as to whether
it would be better to descend on to the sea ice by the old track up
which we
had come, which we termed Backstairs Passage, or make down the main
Larsen
Glacier to the point where it junctioned with the Drygalski Glacier.
Mackay was
in favour of the former, Mawson and I of the latter. Had we descended
by our
old route, we should have had to retrace our steps and become involved
in a
very arduous uphill piece of sledging necessitating an ascent of at
least 1000
to 1500 ft. in a distance of a little over a mile. As subsequent events
proved,
Mackay was right and we were wrong. We held on down
the main glacier
with the imposing cliffs and slopes of dark-red granite and blackish
eruptive
rock intermixed with it close on our left. Mawson's leg was now so bad
that it
was only with considerable pain and difficulty that he could proceed,
and both
Mackay's and my eyes were affected a good deal by snow blindness and
were
painful. We found as we advanced that at about six miles easterly from
our
lunch camp, the surface of the Mount Larsen Glacier descended at a very
steep
angle. Somewhat ahead to the right it was clear that, where it
junctioned with
the Drygalski Glacier, it was seamed by enormous crevasses and
traversed by
strong pressure ridges. We held on with our sledge on a course which
took us
close to the north side of the glacier. At last the descent became so
steep
that it was with the utmost difficulty that we could hold the sledge
back and
prevent its charging down the slope. We halted here and Mackay went
ahead to
reconnoitre. Presently he came back and said that the narrow strip of
snow
covering the glacier ice, near its contact with the rocky cliffs on our
left,
was continuous right down to the bottom of the slope, and he thought it
was
practicable, if we made rope brakes for the runners on our sledge, to
lower it
down this steep slope in safety. He fixed on some brakes of brown
tarred rope
by just twisting the rope spirally around the sledge runners. We then
cautiously started the sledge down the steepest bit of the slope, all
of us
ready to let go in case the sledge took charge. The rope brake worked
wonders,
and it was even necessary to put a slight pull on the sledge in places
in order
to get it down the steep snow surface. We had left the great crevasses
and ice
falls near the junction of the Mount Larsen and Drygalski Glaciers a
little to
our right. We now found
ourselves on an
ice-surface quite unlike anything which we had hitherto experienced. In
the
foreground were some small frozen lakes close to the foot of the
granite hills;
on the far side of the lakes were beautiful glacial moraines. All
around the
lakes, and for a considerable distance up the ice slopes descending
towards
them, the surface of the ice was formed of a series of large thin
anastomosing
curved plates of ice. After sledging
for a short distance
over surfaces of this kind, sloping somewhat steeply to the small
lakes, we
decided to camp on the pale green ice of one of these lakes. Mawson
tested this
ice and found that it was strong enough to hold, though evidently of no
great
thickness. We sledged along this lake for a few hundred yards to its
north-east
end. There was a little snow here which would do for loading the skirt
of our
tent. By this time the sky was thickly overcast. We fixed up the tent,
chopping
little holes in the surface of the smooth ice, in which to socket the
ends of
the tent-poles, and while Mackay cooked, Mawson and I snowed the skirt.
This
was subsequent to a little reconnoitring which we each did. It was 2
A.M.
before we camped on the lake ice, and 4 A.M. before we turned into our
sleeping-bag. January 31.
We were up about 11 A.M., having slept soundly after the very
exhausting work
of our previous day's sledging. During the night it had snowed heavily,
there
being fully from three to four inches of newly fallen snow covering
everything
around us, and it was still snowing while we were having breakfast.
After
breakfast the snow nearly ceased, and we took half the load off our
sledge and
started with the remainder to try and work a passage out of the
ice-pressure
ridges of the combined Drygalski and Larsen Glaciers on to the smoother
sea
ice, and eventually on to the Drygalski Ice Barrier. While Mawson and
Mackay
pulled, I steadied the sledge on the lower side in rounding the steep
sidelings. We were still sledging over the leafy or tile ice, which
mostly
crunched underfoot with a sharp tinkling sound. We skirted the lateral
moraine
for a distance of over half a mile, following a depression in the
ice-surface
apparently produced by a stream, the outlet of the waters of the small
lakes.
At one spot Mawson crashed right through into the water beneath, and
got wet up
to his thighs. In spite of my efforts to keep it on even keel, the
sledge
frequently capsized on these steep sidelings. At last, after struggling
up and
down heavy slopes, and over low-lying areas of rotten ice, which every
here and
there let us through into the water beneath, we arrived at the foot of
an
immense ice-pressure ridge. It was a romantic-looking spot, though at
the time
we did not exactly appreciate its beauties. To our left was a huge
cliff of massive
granite rising up steeply to heights of about 2000 ft. The combined
pressure of
the Drygalski and Mount Larsen Glaciers had forced the glacier ice up
into
great ridges, trending somewhat obliquely to the coast cliff. We went back to
the tent where we
got some hot tea, of which Mawson, particularly, was very glad, as he
was
somewhat cooled down as the result of his wetting. Then we packed up
the
remainder of our belongings on the sledge and dragged it down to where
we had
dumped the half-load on the near side of the pressure ridge. Mackay
reconnoitred ahead, and found that the large-pressure ridge, which
appeared to
bar our progress towards our depot, gradually came nearer and nearer in
to the
granite cliff, until it pressed hard against the cliff face. Obviously,
then,
we were impounded by this huge pressure ridge, and would have to devise
some
means of getting over it. Taking our ice-axes we smoothed a passage,
across
part of the ridge. This proved a very tough piece of work. We then
unloaded the
sledge and passed each one of our packages over by hand. Finally we
dragged the
sledge up and hoisted it over and lowered it down safely on the other
side.
After this we reloaded the sledge and dragged it for some considerable
distance
over more of the leafy ice-surface alternating with flattish
depressions of
rotten ice and snow, with water just beneath. We were now troubled, not
only by
the tile-ice surface, but also by small channels with steep banks,
apparently
eroded by glacial streams which had been flowing, as the result of the
thaw,
while we were on the Magnetic Pole plateau. We were also worried from
time to
time as to how to get over the vast number of intersecting crevasses
which lay
in our path. Little by
little the surface
Unproved as we sledged towards our depot. After lunch, the sledging
surface,
though still heavy, owing to the newly fallen snow, improved a little,
but we
soon found our progress barred by what may be termed an ice donga,
apparently
an old channel formed by a river of thaw water. We encountered three
such
dongas that afternoon. They were from a few feet up to fifty or a
hundred feet
or more in width, and from ten to twenty feet deep, and bounded by
precipitous
or overhanging sides. After a
considerable amount of
reconnoitring by Mackay and Mawson, and often making considerable
detours with
our sledge, we managed to cross them. Our difficulties were increased
by the
innumerable crevasses and steep ice ridges. Some of these crevasses
were open,
while others were roofed over with tough snow. We fell into these
crevasses
from time to time, and on one occasion, Mackay and I fell into the same
crevasse simultanteously, he up to his shoulders and I up to my waist.
Fortunately we were able, by throwing out our arms, to prevent
ourselves from
falling right through the snow lid. While we were sledging on through
the night
amongst this network of crevasses, the sky became heavily overcast, and
it
commenced to snow. At last we succeeded in getting within less than a
mile of
the moraine containing the boulders of remarkable sphenediorite,
specimens of
which we had collected at that spot on our outward journey. Here we
camped and
turned into our sleeping-bag at 7 A.M. on February 1. It continued
snowing heavily (luring
the day, the fall being about six inches in depth. Mawson's sprained
leg pained
him a great deal. We estimated that we were now only about sixteen
miles, as
the skua flies, from our depot on the Drygalski Glacier, but as we had
only two
days' food left, it became imperative to push on without delay. We
started
sledging in the thick driving snow on the evening of February 1. The
surface
was covered with a layer of soft snow, nine inches in thickness, but in
the
drifts it was, of course, deeper. The work of sledging under these
circumstances
was excessively laborious and exhausting, and besides it was impossible
to keep
our proper course while the blizzard lasted. Accordingly, we camped at
8 P.M.,
and after our evening meal we rolled into our sleeping-bag and slid
into the
dreamless sleep that comes to the worn and weary wanderer. At 8 A.M. on
February 2 we were
rejoiced to find the sun shining in a clear sky. We intended making a
desperate
attempt this day to reach our depot, as we knew that the Nimrod
would be due — perhaps overdue — by the night. We saw as we
looked back that our track of yesterday was about as straight as a
corkscrew.
Once more we pulled out over the soft snow, and although refreshed
somewhat by
our good sleep we found the work extremely trying and toilsome. We
crossed an
ice donga, and about four miles out reached the edge of a second donga.
Here we
decided to leave everything but our sledge, tent, sleeping-bag,
000king-apparatus, oil and food, and make a forced march right on to
the
Drygalski Depot. Accordingly we camped, had tea and two biscuits each,
and
fixed up our depot, including the Lloyd-Creak dip circle, theodolite
and legs,
geological collections, &c., and marked the spot with a little
blue flag
tied on to an ice-axe. We now found
the sledge, thus
lightened, distinctly easier to pull, and after making a slight detour,
crossed
the donga by a snow bridge. Soon we reached another donga, and
successfully
crossed it. At three and a half miles further at 8 P.M. we camped again
and had
a little cheese and biscuit. After this short halt we pulled on again,
steering
north-8°-east magnetic. Mawson occasionally swept the horizon with our
excellent field-glasses in hopes of sighting our depot. Suddenly he
exclaimed
that he saw the depot flag dictinctly on its ice mound, apparently
about seven
miles distant, but it was well round on the starboard bow of our sledge
on a
bearing of south-38°-west magnetic. Mackay and I were much excited at
Mawson's
discovery. Mackay seized the field-glasses as soon as Mawson put them
down and
directed them to the spot indicated, but could see no trace of the
flag; then I
looked through the glasses with equally negative results. Mawson opined
that we
must both be snow-blind. Then he looked through them again, and at once
exclaimed that he could see no trace of the flag now. The horizon
seemed to be
walloping up and down, just as though it was boiling, evidently the
result of a
mirage. Mawson, however, was so confident that he had seen the flag
when he
first looked, that we altered course to south-38°-west magnetic, and
after we
had gone a little over a mile, and reached the top of a slight eminence
in the
ice-surface, we were rejoiced to hear the announcement that he could
now see
the depot flag distinctly. We kept on sledging for several miles
further. At
midnight, when the temperature had fallen to zero, I felt that the big
toe of
my right foot was getting frost-bitten. My ski boots had all day been
filled
with the soft snow and the warmth of my foot had thawed the snow, so
that my
socks were wet through; and now, since the springing up of the wind and
the
sudden fall in temperature, the water in the socks had turned to ice.
So we
halted, got up the tent, started the primus and prepared for a midnight
meal,
while, with Mawson's assistance, I got off my frozen ski boots and
socks and
restored the circulation in my toe, and put on some socks less icy than
those I
had just taken off. We were much
refreshed by our
supper, and then started off again, thinking that at last we should
reach our
depot, or at all events, the small inlet a little over a mile distant
from it,
but "the best laid schemes of mice and men gang aft agley." There was
an ominous white streak ahead of us with a dark streak just behind it,
and we
soon saw that this was due to a ravine or barranca in the snow- and
ice-surface
interposing itself between ourselves and our depot. We soon reached the
near
cliff of the barranca. The barranca
was about two hundred
yards in width, and from thirty to forty feet deep. It was bounded by a
vertical
cliff or very steeply inclined slope on the near side, the northwest
side, and
by an overhanging cliff festooned with stalactites on the south-east
side. To
the north-east a strip of dark seawater was visible between the walls
of the
barranca, which evidently communicated by a long narrow channel with
the ocean
outside, some three miles distant. Inland, the barranca extended for
many miles
as far as the eye could reach. The bottom of the barranca immediately
beneath
us was floored with sea ice covered with a few inches of snow. This ice
was
traversed by large tide-cracks, and we were much excited to see that
there were
a number of seals and Emperor penguins dotted over the ice floor. We
determined
to try and cross the barranca. We looked up and down the near cliff for
a
practicable spot where we could let down our sledge, and soon found a
suitable
slope, a little to the north-east of us, formed by a steep snow drift.
We
sledged on to this spot, and making fast the alpine rope to the bow of
the
sledge, lowered it cautiously, stern first, to the bottom. The oil-cans
in the
rear of the sledge were rattled up somewhat when it struck bottom, but
no harm
was done. At the bottom we had some trouble in getting the sledge over
the
gaping tide-cracks, some ten to fifteen feet deep and three to five
feet wide. Arrived at the
middle of the floor
of the barranca, Mackay killed two Emperor penguins, and took their
breasts and
livers to replenish our exhausted larder. Meanwhile, Mawson crossed to
the far
side of the floor of the barranca on the look-out for a possible spot
where we
might swarm up. I joined him a few minutes later, and as I was feeling
much
exhausted after the continuous forced marches back from the Magnetic
Pole,
asked him to take over the leadership of the expedition. I considered
that
under the circumstances I was justified in taking this step. We had
accomplished the work assigned to us by our leader, having reached the
Magnetic
Pole. We were within two or three miles of our Drygalski Depot, and
although
the only food left there was two days' supply of broken biscuits with a
little
cheese, we had a good prospect of meat-supply, as the barranca abounded
in
seals and penguins, so that for the present we had no reason to
apprehend the
danger of starvation. On the other hand, as regards our ultimate
personal
safety, our position was somewhat critical. We were not even certain
that the Nimrod had arrived at all
in Ross Sea
that season, though we thought it, of course, very probable that she
had. In
the next case, on the assumption that she had arrived, it was very
possible
that in view of the great difficulties of making a thorough search
along the
two hundred miles of coast, at any part of which we might have been
camped — difficulties
arising from heavy belts of pack-ice and icebergs, as well as from the
deeply
indented character of that bold and rugged coast — it was quite
possible that
the Nimrod would miss sighting our
depot flags altogether. In the event of the Nimrod
not appearing within a few days, it would be necessary to take
immediate and
strenuous action with a view either to wintering at the spot, or with a
view to
an attempt to sledge back around the great mountain massifs and over
the many
steeply crevassed glaciers for over two hundred miles to our winter
quarters at
Cape Royds. Even now, in the event of some immediate strenuous action
being
necessary, if the Nimrod were to
suddenly appear at some point along the coast, I thought it would be
best for
Mawson, who was less physically exhausted than myself, to be in charge.
He had,
throughout the whole journey, shown excellent capacity for leadership,
fully
justifying the opinion held of him by Lieutenant Shackleton when
providing in
my instructions that in the event of anything happening to myself
Mawson was to
assume the leadership. When I spoke to him on the subject, he at first
demurred, but finally said that he would act for a time, and would
think the
matter over at his leisure before definitely deciding to become
permanently the
leader. I offered to give him authority in writing as leader, but this
he
declined to receive. Meanwhile, the
examination of the
cliff face on the south-east side of the barranca showed that there was
one
very difficult but apparently possible means of ascent. We returned to
where we
had left Mackay, and then we three dragged the sledge around to the
edge of a
rather formidable tide-crack, behind which lay the mound of snow up
which we
hoped to climb; our idea being to unpack our sledge, drag it to the top
of this
steep mound, and, rearing it on end at the top of the mound, use it as
a ladder
for scaling the overhanging cliff above. Mackay managed to cross the
tide-crack, using the bamboo poles of our tent as a bridge, and after
some
difficulty, reached the top of the snow mound under the overhanging
cliff. Much
to our disappointment, however, he discovered that the mound was formed
of very
soft snow, his ice-axe sinking in to the whole depth of the handle
directly he
placed it on top of the mound. It was obvious that as our sledge would
sink in
to at least an equal depth, the top of it would then be too short to
enable any
of us to scale the overhanging cliff by its means. We were, therefore,
reluctantly compelled to drag our sledge back again over the
tide-cracks to the
north-west side of the barranca down which we had previously lowered
our
sledge. We then discovered that, as in classical times, while the
descent to
Avernus was easy, it was difficult and toilsome to retrace one's steps.
With
Mawson ahead with the ice-axe and towing rope, and Mackay and I on
either side
of the sledge in the rear, we managed by pulling and pushing together
to force
the sledge up a few inches at a time. At each short halt, Mawson would
stick in
the ice-axe, take a turn of the leading rope around it, and support the
sledge
in this way for a brief interval while we all got our breath. At last
the forty
feet of steep slope was successfully negotiated, and we found ourselves
once
more on the level plain at the top of the barranca, but, of course, on
the
wrong side in reference to our depot. As we were within three miles of
the open
sea we thought it would be safe to camp here, as had the Nimrod
sighted our depot flag and stood in to the coast, we could
easily have hurried down to the entrance of the inlet and made signals
to her. We had now been
up since 8 A.M. on
the previous day, and were very thankful to be able to enter our tent,
and have
a meal off a stew of minced penguin liver. We then turned into the
sleeping-bag
at about 7 A.M. Just about a quarter of an hour after we had turned in,
as we
learnt later, the Nimrod must have
passed, bound north towards Mount Melbourne, within three miles of the
ice
cliff on which our tent was now situated. Owing, however, to a light
wind with
snow drift, she was unable to sight either our depot flag or tent. February 3.
After sleeping in the bag from 7 A.M. until 11 A.M. we got up and had
breakfast, packed our sledge, and started along the north bank of the
snow
canon. The snow and ice at the bottom were dotted with basking seals
and
moulting Emperor penguins. Fully a hundred seals could be counted in
places in
a distance of as many yards along the canon. At about one mile from the
camp we
reached a small branch canon, which we had to head off by turning to
our right.
We now proceeded about one and a half miles further along the edge of
the main
canon, and in our then tired and weak state were much dispirited to
find that
it still trended inland for a considerable distance. We now halted by
the
sledge while Mackay went ahead to try and find a crossing, and
presently Mawson
and I were rejoiced to hear him shout that he had discovered a snow
bridge
across the canon. Presently he rejoined us, and together we pulled the
sledge
to the head of the snow bridge. It was a romantic spot. A large slice
of the
snow or nevi) cliff had fallen obliquely across the canon, and its
surface had
then been raised and partially levelled up with soft drift snow. There
was a
crevasse at both the near and far ends of the bridge, and the middle
was sunk a
good deal below the abutments. Stepping over the crevasse at the near
end, we
launched the sledge with a run down to the centre of the bridge, then
struggled
up the steep slope facing us, Mackay steadying the sledge from falling
off the narrow
causeway, while we all three pulled for all we were worth. In another
minute or
two we were safely across with our sledge, thankful that we had now
surmounted
the last obstacle that intervened between us and our depot. While heading
for the depot we sighted
an Emperor penguin close to our track. Mackay quickly slew him, and
took his
flesh and liver for our cooking-pot. Two miles further on we camped.
Mawson
minced the Emperor's flesh and liver, and after adding a little snow, I
boiled
it over our primus so as to make one and a half pots of soupy mincemeat
for
each of us. This was the
most satisfying meal we
had had for many a long day. After lunch we sledged on for over one and
a half
miles further towards the depot, and at about 10.30 P.M. reached an ice
mound
on the south side of the inlet in which the snow canon terminated
seawards.
This camping spot was a little over a mile distant from our depot. We
were now
all thoroughly exhausted and decided to camp. The spot we had selected
seemed
specially suitable, as from the adjacent ice mound we could get a good
view of
the ocean beyond the Drygalski Barrier. While Mawson and I got up the
tent,
Mackay went to kill a seal at the shore of the inlet. He soon returned
with
plenty of seal meat and liver. He said that he had found two young
seals, and
had killed one of them; that they had both behaved in a most unusual
manner,
scuttling away quickly and actively at his approach, instead of waiting
without
moving, as did most of the Weddell seals, of which we had hitherto had
experience. We discovered later that these two seals belonged to the
comparatively rare variety known as Ross seal. After a delicious meal
of seal
blubber, blood, and oil, with fried meal and liver, cooked by Mawson,
Mawson
and I turned into the sleeping-bag, leaving Mackay to take the first of
our
four hour watches on the look-out for the Nimrod.
During his watch he walked up to our depot and dug out our biscuit tin,
which
had served us as a blubber lamp and cooker, together with the cut-down
paraffin
tin which we had used as a frying-pan. Both these he carried down to
our tent.
There he lit the blubber lamp just outside the tent and cooked some
penguin
meat, regaling himself at intervals, during his four hours' watch, with
dainty
morsels from the savoury dish. When he called me up at 4 A.M. I found
that he
had thoughtfully put into the frying-pan a junk of Emperor's breast,
weighing
about two pounds, for me to toy with during my watch. A chilly wind was
blowing
off the plateau and I was truly thankful for an occasional nibble at
the hot
penguin meat. After cooking some more penguin meat I called up Mawson
soon
after 8 A.M. on February 4, and immediately afterwards turned into the
bag, and
at once dropped off sound asleep. Mawson did not
call Mackay and
myself until after 2 P.M. We at once .rolled up the sleeping-bag, and
Mawson
cooked a generous meal of seal and penguin meat and blubber, while
Mackay made
a thin soupy broth on the primus. Meanwhile, I went on to the ice mound
with
the field-glasses, but could see nothing in the way of a ship to
seaward and
returned to the tent. We all thoroughly enjoyed our liberal repast, and
particularly relished the seal's blood, gravy, and seal oil. Alter the meal
we discussed our
future plans. We decided that we had better move the tent that
afternoon up to
our old depot, where it would be a conspicuous object from the sea, and
where,
too, we could command a more extensive view of the ocean. We also
talked over
what we had best do in the event of the Nimrod
not turning up, and decided that we ought to attempt to sledge overland
to Hut
Point, keeping ourselves alive on the way, as best we might, with seal
meat. It
must be admitted that the prospect of tackling two hundred miles of
coast,
formed largely of steep rocky foreshores, alternating with heavily
crevassed
glacier ice, was not a very bright one. We also discussed the date at
which we
ought to start trekking southwards. Mackay thought we ought to commence
making
our preparations at once, and that unless the Nimrod
arrived within a few days we ought to start down the coast
with our sledge, tent, sleeping-bag, cooker, and seal meat, leaving a
note at
the depot for the Nimrod, in case
she
should arrive later, asking her to look out for us along the coast, and
if she
couldn't sight us, to lay depots of food and oil for us at certain
specified
spots. He considered that by this method we could make sure of
beginning the
long journey in a sound state of health, and, if, fortunate, might
reach Hut
Point before the beginning of the equinoctial gales in March. Mawson
and I, on
the other hand, thought that we ought to wait on at our present camp
until late
in February. From whatever
point of view we
looked at it, our present lot was not a happy one. The possibility of a
long
wait in the gloomy region of the Drygalski Glacier, with its frequent
heavy
snows at this season of the year, and leaden sky vaulted over the dark
sea, was
not pleasing to contemplate. Still less cheerful u as the prospect of a
long,
tedious, and dangerous sledge journey towards Hut Point. Even the diet
of seal
and penguin, just for the moment so nice, largely because novel, would
soon
savour of toujoure perdrix. Dispirited by
forebodings of much
toil and trouble, we were just preparing to set our weary limbs in
motion to.
pack up our belongings for the short trek up to the depot, when Bang !
went
something, seemingly close to the door of our tent; the sound thrilled
us; in
another instant the air reverberated with a big boom ! much louder than
the first
sound. Mawson gave tongue first, roaring out, "A gun from the ship!"
and dived for the tent door. As the latter was narrow and funnel-shaped
there
was for the moment some congestion of traffic. I dashed my head
forwards to
where I saw a small opening, only in time to receive a few kicks from
the
departing Mawson. Just as I was recovering my equilibrium, Mackay made
a wild
charge, rode me down, and trampled over my prostrate body. When at
length I
struggled to my feet, Mawson had got a lead of a hundred yards and
Mackay of
about fifty. "Bring something to wave," shouted Mawson, and I rushed
back to the tent and seized Mackay's rucksack. As I ran forward this
time, what
a sight met my gaze. There was the dear old Nimrod,
not a quarter of a mile away, steaming straight towards us up the
inlet, her
bows just rounding the entrance. At the sight of the three of us
running
frantically to meet the ship, hearty ringing cheers burst forth from
all on
board. How those cheers stirred every fibre of one's being t It would
be hard,
indeed, for any one, not situated as we had been, to realise the sudden
revulsion of our feelings. In a moment, as dramatic as it was heavenly,
we
seemed to have passed from death into life. My first feelings were of
intense
relief and joy; then of fervent gratitude to the kind Providence which
had so
mercifully led our friends to our deliverance. A sudden shout
from Mackay called me
back to earth, "Mawson's fallen into a deep crevasse. Look out, it's
just
in front of you!" I then saw that Mackay was kneeling on the snow near
the
edge of a small oblong sapphire-blue hole in the neve "Are you all
right,
Mawson?" he sang out, and from the depth came up the welcome word,
"Yes."
Mackay then told me that Mawson was about twenty feet down the
crevasse. We
decided to try and pull him up with the sledge harness, and hurried
back to the
sledge, untoggled the harness, ran back with it to the crevasse, and
let one
end down to Mawson. We found, however, that our combined strength was
insufficient to pull him up, and that there was a risk, too, of the
snow lid at
the surface falling in on Mawson, if weight was put upon it, unless it
was
strengthened with some planking. Accordingly, we gave up the attempt to
haul
Mawson up, and while I remained at the crevasse holding one end of the
sledge
harness Mackay hurried off for help to the Nimrod,
which was now berthing alongside of the south wall of the inlet, about
two
hundred yards distant. Mackay shouted to those on board, "Mawson has
fallen down a crevasse, and we got to the Magnetic Pole." The accident
had
taken place so suddenly that those on board had not realised in the
least what
had happened. A clear, firm, cheery voice, that was strange to me, was
now
heard issuing prompt orders for a rescue party. Almost in less time
than it
takes to write it, officers and sailors were swarming over the bows of
the Nimrod, and dropping on to the
ice
barrier beneath. I called down to Mawson that help was at hand. He said
that he
was quite comfortable at present; that there was sea water at the
bottom of the
crevasse, but that he had been able to sustain himself a couple of feet
above
it on the small ledge that had arrested his fall. Meanwhile, the rescue
party,
headed by the first officer of the Nimrod,
J. K. Davis, had arrived on the scene. The crevasse was bridged with a
suitable
piece of sawn timber, and Davis, with that spirit of thoroughness which
characterises all his work, promptly had himself lowered down the
crevasse. On
reaching the bottom he transferred the rope by which he had been
lowered to
Mawson, and with a long pull and a strong pull and a pull altogether,
the
company of the Nimrod soon had
Mawson
safe on top, none the worse for the accident with the exception that
his back
was slightly bruised. As soon as the rope was cast free from Mawson, it
was let
down again for Davis, and presently he, too, was safely on top. And now we had
a moment of leisure
to see who constituted the rescue party. There were the dear old faces
so well
known on our voyage together the previous year, and interspersed with
them were
a few new faces. Here were our old comrades, Armytage and Brocklehurst,
Dr.
Michell, Harbord (the officer who — as we learned later — had sighted
our depot
flag), our good stewards Ansell and Ellis, the genial boatswain
Cheetham,
Paton, and a number of others. What a joyous grasping of hands and
hearty
all-round welcoming followed. Foremost among them all to welcome us was
Captain
Evans, who had commanded the S.S. Koonya,
which towed the Nimrod from
Lyttleton
to beyond the Antarctic Circle, and it goes without saying that the
fact that
the Nimrod was now in command of a
master of such experience, so well and favourably known in the shipping
world
of New Zealand and Australia, gave us the greatest satisfaction. He
hastened to
assure me of the safety and good health of my wife and family. While
willing
hands packed up our sledge, tent, and other belongings, Captain Evans
walked
with us to the rope ladder hanging over the bows of the Nimrod.
Quickly as all
this had taken place,
Mackay had already found time to secure a pipe and some tobacco from
one of our
crew, and was now puffing away to his heart's content. We were soon all
on the
deck of the Nimrod once more, and
were immediately stood up in a row to be photographed. As soon as the
cameras
had worked their wicked will upon us, for we were a sorry sight, our
friends
hurried us off for afternoon tea. After our one hundred and twenty-two
days of
hard toil over the sea ice of the coast and the great snow desert of
the
hinterland, the little ship seemed to us as luxurious as an ocean
liner. To
find oneself seated once more in a comfortable chair, and to be served
with
new-made bread, fresh butter, cake, and tea, was Elysium. We heard of the
narrow escape of
Armytage, Priestley, and Brocklehurst, when they were being carried out
to sea,
with only two days' provisions, on a small ice-floe surrounded by
killer-whales;
and how, just after the momentary grounding of the floe, they were all
just
able to leap ashore at a spot where they were picked up later by the Nimrod. We also heard of the
extraordinary adventures and escape of Mackintosh and MacGillan in
their forced
march overland, without tent or sleeping-bag, from Mount Bird to Cape
Royds; of
the departure of the supporting-party to meet the Southern Party; and,
in
short, of all the doings at Cape Royds and on the Nimrod
since we had last heard any news. Pleasantly the buzz of our
friends' voices blended itself with the gentle fizzing of steam from
the Nimrod's boiler, and surely
since the
days of John Gilpin "were never folk so glad" as were we three. After afternoon
tea came the joy of
reading the home letters, and finding that the news was good. Later we
three
had a novel experience, the first real wash for over four months. After
much
diligent work with hot water, soap, and towel, some of the outer casing
of dirt
was removed, and bits of our real selves began to show through the
covering of
seal oil and soot. Dinner followed at 6 P.M., and it is scarcely
necessary to
add that, with our raging appetites and all the new types of dainty
food around
us, we over-ate ourselves. This did not prevent us from partaking
liberally of
hot cocoa and gingerbread biscuits before turning in at 10 P.M. None
but those
whose bed for months has been on snow and ice can realise the luxury of
a real
bunk, blankets, and pillow, in a snug little cabin. A few minutes'
happy
reverie preceded sound sleep. At last our toilsome march was over, the
work
that had been given us to do was done, and done just
in the nick of time; the safety of those
nearest and dearest to us
was assured, and we could now lay down our weary limbs to rest. Under
Providence one felt one owed
one's life to the patient and thorough search, sound judgment, and fine
seamanship of Captain Evans, and the devotion to duty of his officers
and crew:
and no pen can describe how that night one's heart overflowed with
thankfulness
for all the blessings of that day. One's last thought in the twilight
that
comes between wakefulness and sleep is expressed in the words of our
favourite
record on the gramophone, the hymn so grandly sung by Evan Williams: |