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CHAPTER XXIV A BRIEF RETROSPECT Total Distance Travelled: Travelling over Bea-ioe: The Drygalski Glacier: Backstairs Passage: Results of Journey: How to spend a Week at the Magnetic Pole IF one may be
permitted to take a
brief retrospect of our journey, the following considerations present
themselves: The total distance travelled from Cape Royds to the
Magnetic Pole
and back to our depot on the Drygalski Glacier was about 1260 miles. Of
this,
740 miles was relay work, and we dragged a weight of, at first, a
little over
half a ton, and finally somewhat under half a ton for the whole of this
distance. For the remaining 520 miles from the Drygalski Depot to the
Magnetic
Pole and back we dragged a weight, at first, of 670 lb., but this
finally
became reduced to about 450 lb., owing to consumption of food and oil,
by the
time that we returned to our depot. We were absent
on our sledge journey
for one hundred and twenty-two days, of which five days were spent in
our tent
during heavy blizzards, and five days partly in experimenting in
cooking with
blubber and partly in preparing supplies of seal meat for the journey
from the
sea ice over the high plateau, and three days in addition were taken up
in
reconnoitring, taking magnetic observations, &c. We therefore
covered this
distance of 1260 miles in 109 travelling days, an average of about
eleven and a
half miles a day. We had laid two
depots before our
final start, but as these were distant only ten miles and fifteen miles
respectively from our winter quarters, they did not materially help us.
We had
no supporting-party, and with the exception of help from the motorcar
in laying
out these short depots, we pulled the sledges for the whole distance
without
assistance except, on rare occasions, from the wind. The travelling
over the sea ice was
at first pretty good, but from Cape Bernacchi to the Nordenskjold Ice
Barrier
we were much hampered by screwed pack-ice with accompanying high and
hard snow
ridges. Towards the latter part of October and during November and part
of
December the thawing surface of saline snow, clogging and otherwise
impeding
our runners, made the work of sledging extremely laborious. Moreover,
on the
sea ice — especially towards the last part of our journey over it — we had ever present the
risk of a blizzard
breaking the ice up suddenly all around us, and drifting us out to sea.
There
can be no doubt, in view of the wide lanes of open water in the sea ice
on the
south side of the Drygalski Glacier, when we reached it on November 30,
that we
got to glades firma only in the nick of time. Then there was
the formidable
obstacle of the Drygalski Glacier, with its wide and deep chasms, its
steep
ridges and crevasses, the passage of this glacier proving so difficult
that,
although only a littlb over twenty miles in width, it took us a
fortnight to
get across. On the far side of the Drygalski was the open sea forcing
us to
travel shorewards over the glacier surface. Then had come the difficult
task of
pioneering a way up to the high plateau — the attempt to force a
passage up the
Mount Nansen Glacier — our. narrow escapes from having our sledge
engulfed in
crevasses — the heavy blizzard with deep new fallen snow and then our
retreat
from that region of high-pressure ridges and crevasse entanglements —
our
abandonment of the proposed route up the snout of the Bellingshausen
Glacier,
and finally our successful ascent up the small tributary glacier, the
"backstairs
passage," to the south of Mount Larsen. On the high
plateau were: the
difficulty of respiration, biting winds with low temperatures,
difficult sledging
— sometimes against blizzards — over broad undulations and high
sastrugi, the
cracking of our lips, fingers, and feet, exhaustion from insufficient
rations,
disappointment at finding that the Magnetic Pole had shifted further
inland
than the position previously assigned to it. Then, after we had just
succeeded
by dint of great efforts in reaching the Pole of verticity, came the
necessity
for forced marches, with our sledge, of from sixteen to twenty miles a
day in
order to reach the coast with any reasonable prospect of our being
picked up by
the Nimrod. Then came our
choice of the
difficult route down the snout of the Bellingshausen Glacier, and our
consequent difficulties in surmounting the ice-pressure ridges; then
the
difficulty of sledging over the "tile-ice" surface, the opposing ice
barrancas formed by the thaw water while we were on the high plateau;
the final
heavy snow blizzard; our loss of direction when sledging in bad light
and
falling snow, and finally our arrest by the deep barranca of what
afterwards
was known as Relief Inlet. But ours were
not the only, nor the
greatest, difficulties connected with our journey. There were many
disappointments, dangers, and hardships for the captain, officers, and
crew of
the Nimrod in their search for us
along that two hundred miles of desolate and, for a great part,
inaccessible
coast-line. How often black spots ashore, proving on nearer view to be
seals or
penguins, had been mistaken for depot flags; how often the glint of
sunlight
off brightly reflecting facets of ice had been thought to be "hellos,"
only the disappointed ones can tell; how often, too, the ship was all
but
aground, at other times all but beset in the ice-pack in the efforts to
get a
clearer view of the shore-line in order to discover our depot I This is
a tale
that the brave men who risked their lives to save ours will scorn to
tell, but
it is nevertheless true. As the result
of our journey to the
Magnetic Pole and back, Mawson was able to join up in his continuous
triangulation survey, Mount Erebus with Mount Melbourne, and to show
with
approximate accuracy the outline of the coast-line, and the position
and height
of several new mountains. He and I obtained geological collections,
sketches,
and notes — especially on glacial geology — along the coast-line, and
he also
took a series of photographs; while Mackay determined our altitudes on
the
plateau by means of the hypsometer. Mawson also made magnetic
determinations,
and I was able to gather some meteorological information. Unfortunately
the time available
during our journey was too short for detailed magnetic, geological, or
meteorological observations. Nevertheless, we trust that the
information
obtained has justified the journey. At all events we have pioneered a
route to
the Magnetic Pole, and we hope that the path thus found will prove of
use to
future observers. It is easy, of
course, to be wise
after the event, but there is no doubt that had we known that there was
going
to be an abundance of seals all along the coast, and had we had an
efficient
team of dogs, we could have accomplished our journey in probably half
the time
that it actually occupied. Future expeditions to the South Magnetic
Pole would
probably do well to land a strong and well-equipped party, either at
Relief Inlet
or, better, as near to Backstairs Passage as the ship can be taken, and
as
early in December as the state of the sea ice makes navigation
possible. A
party of three, with a supporting-party also of three, with good dog
teams and
plenty of fresh seal meat, could travel together for about seventy
miles inland;
then the supporting-party might diverge and ascend Mount Nansen from
its inland
extremity. The other party, meanwhile, might proceed to the Magnetic
Pole at
not less than fifteen miles a day. This should admit of their spending
from a
week to a fortnight at the Pole, and they should then be able to return
to the
coast early in February. Meanwhile, there would be plenty of scope for
a third
party to explore the foot-hills of Mount Larsen and Mount Nansen,
search and
map their wonderful moraines, and examine the deeply indented rocky
coast-line
from Nansen to the — as yet untrodden — volcano Mount Melbourne. |