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CHAPTER XIV ON THE PLATEAU TO THE FARTHEST SOUTH DECEMBER 18, 1908 TO JANUARY 8, 1909 December 21, Midsummer Day, with 28° of Frost: Christmas Day at an Altitude of 9500 ft. in Latitude 85° 55' South: Christmas Fare: Last Depot on January 4: Blinding Blizzard for two Days, January 7, 8: Altitude 11,600 ft. December
18.
Almost up: The altitude to-night is 7400 ft. above sea-level. This has
been one
of our hardest days, but worth it, for we are just on the plateau at
last. We
started at 7.30 A.M., relaying the sledges, and did 6 miles 600 yards,
which
means nearly 19 miles for the day of actual travelling. All tae morning
we
worked up loose, slippery ice, hauling the sledges up one at a time by
means of
the alpine rope, then pulling in harness on the less stiff rises. We
camped for
lunch at 12.45 P.M. on the crest of a rise close to the pressure and in
the
midst of crevasses, into one of which I managed to fall, also Adams.
Whilst
lunch was preparing I got some rock from the land, quite different to
the
sandstone of yesterday. The mountains are all different just here. The
land on
our left shows beautifully clear stratified lines, and on the west side
sandstone stands out, greatly weathered. All the afternoon we relayed
up a long
snow slope, and we were hungry and tired when we reached camp. We have
been
saving food to make it spin out, and that increases our hunger; each
night we
all dream of foods. We save two biscuits per man per day, also pemmican
and
sugar, eking out our food with pony maize, which we soak in water to
make it
less hard. All this means that we have now five weeks' food, while we
are about
300 geographical miles from the Pole, with the same distance back to
the last
depot we left yesterday, so we must march on short food to reach our
goal. The
temperature is plus 16° Fahr. to-night, but a cold wind all the morning
out our
faces and broken lips. We keep crevasses with us still, but I think
that
to-morrow will see the end of this. When we passed the main slope
to-day, more
mountains appeared to the west of south, some with sheer cliffs and
others
rounded off, ending in long snow slopes. I judge the southern limit of
the
mountains to the west to be about latitude 86° South. December
19.
Not on the plateau level yet, though we are to-night 7888 ft. up, and
still
there is another rise ahead of us. We got breakfast at 5 A.M. and
started at 7 A.M.
sharp, taking on one sledge. Soon we got to the top of a ridge, and
went back
for the second sledge, then hauled both together all the rest of the
day. The
weight was about 200 lb. per man, and we kept going until 6 P.M., with
a stop
of one hour for lunch. We got a meridian altitude at noon, and found
that our
latitude was 85° 5' South. We seem unable to get rid of the crevasses,
and we
have been falling into them and steering through them all day in the
face of a
cold southerly wind, with a temperature varying from plus 15° to plus
9° Fahr.
The work was very heavy, for we were going uphill all day, and our
sledge
runners, which have been suffering from the sharp ice and rough
travelling, are
in a bad way. Soft snow in places greatly retarded our progress, but we
have
covered our ten miles, and now are camped on good snow between two
crevasses. I
really think that to-morrow will see us on the plateau proper. This
glacier
must be one of the largest, if not the largest, in the world. The
sastrugi seem
to point mainly to the south, so we may expect head winds all the way
to the
Pole. Marshall has a cold job to-night, taking the angles of the new
mountains
to the west, some of which appeared to-day. After dinner we examined
the sledge
runners and turned one sledge end for end, for it had bees badly torn
while we
were coming up the glacier, and in the soft snow it clogged greatly. We
are
still favoured with splendid weather, and that is a great comfort to
us, for it
would be almost impossible under other conditions to travel amongst
these
crevasses, which are caused by the congestion of the ice between the
headlands
when it was flowing from the plateau down between the mountains. Now
there is
comparatively little movement, and many of the crevasses have become
snow-filled. To-night we are 290 geographical miles from the Pole. We
are
thinking of our Christmas dinner. We will be full that day, anyhow. December
20.
Not yet up, but nearly so. We got away from camp at 7 A.M., with a
strong head
wind from the south, and this wind continued all day, with a
temperature
ranging from plus 7° to plus 5°. Our beards coated with ice. It was an
uphill
pull all day around pressure ice, and we reached an altitude of over
8000 ft.
above sea-level. The weather was clear, but there were various clouds,
which
were noted by Adams. Marshall took bearings and angles at noon, and we
got the
sun's meridian altitude, showing that we were in latitude 85° 17'
South. We
hope all the time that each ridge we come to will be the last, but each
time
another rises ahead, split up by pressure, and we begin the same toil
again. It
is trying work and as we have now reduced our food at breakfast to one
pannikin
of hoosh and one biscuit, by the time the lunch hour has arrived, after
five
hours' hauling in the cold wind up the slope, we are very hungry. At
lunch we
have a little chocolate, tea with plasmon, a pannikin of cocoa, and
three
biscuits. To-day we did 11 miles, 950 yards (statute), having to relay
the
sledges over the last bit, for the ridge we were on was so steep that
we could
not get the two sledges up together. Still, we are getting on; we have
only 279
more miles to go, and then we will have reached the Pole. The land
appears to
run away to the south-east now, and soon we will be just a speck on
this great
inland waste of snow and ice. It is cold to-night. I am cook for the
week, and
started to-night. Every one is fit and well. December
21.
Midsummer Day, with 28° of frost! We have frost-bitten fingers and
ears, and a
strong blizzard wind has been blowing from the south all day, all due
to the
fact that we have climbed to an altitude of over 8000 ft. above
sea-level. From
early morning we have been striving to the south, but six miles is the
total
distance gained, for from noon, or rather from lunch at 1 P.M., we have
been
hauling the sledges up, one after the other, by standing pulls across
crevasses
and over great pressure ridges. When we had advanced one sledge some
distance,
we put up a flag on a bamboo to mark its position, and then roped up
and
returned for the other. The wind, no doubt, has a great deal to do with
the low
temperature, and we feel the cold, as we are going on short commons.
The
altitude adds to the difficulties, but we are getting south all the
time. We
started away from camp at 6.45 A.M. to-day, and except for an hour's
halt at
lunch, worked on until 6 P.M. Now we are camped in a filled-up
crevasse, the
only place where snow to put round the tents oan be obtained, for all
the rest.
of the ground we are on is either nevO or hard ice. We little thought
that this
particular pressure ridge was going to be such an obstacle; it looked
quite
ordinary, even a short way off, but we have now decided to trust
nothing to
eyesight, for the distances are so deceptive up here. It is a wonderful
sight
to look down over the glacier from the great altitude we are at, and to
see the
mountains stretching away east and west, some of them over 15,000 ft.
in
height. We are very hungry now, and it seems as cold almost as the
spring
sledging. Our beards are masses of ice all day long. Thank God we are
fit and
well and have had no accident, which is a mercy, seeing that we have
covered
over 130 miles of crevassed ice. December
22.
As I write of to-day's events, I can easily imagine I am on a spring
sledging
journey, for the temperature is minus 5° Fahr. and a chilly
south-easterly wind
is blowing and finds its way through the walls of our tent, which are
getting
worn. All day long, from 7 A.M., except for the hour when we stopped
for lunch,
we have been relaying the sledges over the pressure mounds and across
crevasses. Our total distance to the good for the whole day was only
four miles
southward, but this evening our prospects look brighter, for we must
now have
come to the end of the great glacier. It is flattening out, and except
for
crevasses there will not be much trouble in hauling the sledges
to-morrow. One
sledge to-day, when coming down with a run over a pressure ridge,
turned a
complete somersault, but nothing was damaged, in spite of the total
weight
being over 400 lb. We are now dragging 400 lb. at a time up the steep
slopes
and across the ridges, working with the alpine rope all day, and roping
ourselves together when we go back for the second sledge, for the
ground is so
treacherous that many times during the day we are saved only by the
rope from
falling into fathomless pits. Wild describes the sensation of walking
over this
surface, half ice and half snow, as like walking over the glass roof of
a
station. The usual query when one of us falls into a crevasse is!" Have
you found it?" One gets somewhat callous as regards the immediate
danger,
though we are always glad to meet crevasses with their coats off, that
is, not
hidden by the snow covering. To-night we are camped in a filled-in
crevasse.
Away to the north down the glacier a thick cumulus cloud is lying, but
some of
the largest mountains are standing out clearly. Immediately behind us
lies a
broken sea of pressure ice. Please God, ahead of us there is a clear
road to
the Pole. December
23.
Eight thousand eight hundred and twenty feet ip, and still steering
upwards
amid great waves of pressure and ice-falls, for our plateau, after a
good
morning's march, began to rise in higher ridges, so that it really was
not the
plateau after all. To-day's crevasses have been far more dangerous than
any
others we have crossed, as the soft snow hides all trace of them until
we fall
through. Constantly to-day one or another of the party has had to be
hauled out
from a chasm by means of his harness, which had alone saved him from
death in
the icy vault below. We started at 6.40 A.M. and worked on steadily
until 6
P.M., with the usual lunch hour in the middle of the day. The pony
maize does
not swell in the water now, as the temperature is very low and the
water
freezes. The result is that it swells inside after we have eaten it. We
are
very hungry indeed, and talk a rest deal of what we would like to eat.
In spite
of the crevasses, we have done thirteen miles to-day to the south, and
we are
now in latitude 85° 41' South. The temperature at noon was plus 6°
Fahr. and at
6 P.M. it was minus 1° Fahr., but it is much lower at night. There was
a strong
south-east to south-south-east wind blowing all day, and it was cutting
to our
noses and burst lips. Wild was frost-bitten. I do trust that tomorrow
will see
the end of this bad travelling, so that we can stretch out our legs for
the
Pole. December
24.
A much better day for us; indeed, the brightest we have had since
entering our
Southern Gateway. We started off at 7 A.M. across waves and undulations
of ice,
with some one or other of our little party falling through the thin
crust of
snow every now and then. At 10.30 A.M. I decided to steer more to the
west, and
we soon got on to a better surface, and covered 5 miles 250 yards in
the
forenoon. After lunch, as the surface was distinctly improving, we
discarded
the second sledge, and started our afternoon's march with one sledge.
It has
been blowing freshly from the south and drifting all day, and this,
with over
40° of frost, has coated our faces with ice. We get superficial
frost-bites
every now and then. During the afternoon the surface improved greatly,
and the
cracks and crevasses disappeared, but we are still going uphill, and
from the
summit of one ridge saw some new land, which runs south-south-east down
to
latitude 86° South. We camped at 6 P.M., very tired and with cold feet.
We have
only the clothes we stand up in now, as we depoted everything else, and
this
continued rise means lower temperatures than I had anticipated.
To-night we are
9095 ft. above sea-level, and the way before us is still rising. I
trust that
it will soon level out, for it is hard work pulling at this altitude.
So far
there is no sign of the very hard surface that Captain Scott speaks of
in
connection with his journey on the Northern Plateau. There seem to be
just here
regular layers of snow, not much wind-swept, but we will see better the
surface
conditions in a few days. To-morrow will be Christmas Day, and our
thoughts
turn to home and all the attendant joys of the time. One longs to hear
"the
hansoms slurring through the London mud." Instead of that, we are lying
in
a little tent, isolated high on the roof of the end of the world, far,
indeed,
from the ways trodden of men. Still, our thoughts can fly across the
wastes of
ice and snow and across the oceans to those whom we are striving for
and who
are thinking of us now. And, thank God, we are nearing our goal. The
distance
covered to-day was 11 miles 250 yards. December 25.
Christmas Day. There
has been from 45° to 48° of frost, drifting snow and a strong biting
south
wind, and such has been the order of the day's march from 7 A.M. to 6
P.M. up
one of the steepest rises we have yet done, crevassed in places. Now,
as I
write, we are 9500 ft. above sea-level, and our latitude at 6 P.M. was
85° 55'
South. We started away after a good breakfast, and soon came to soft
snow,
through which our worn and torn sledge-runners dragged heavily. All
morning we
hauled along, and at noon had done 5 miles 250 yards. Sights gave us
latitude
85° 51' South. We had lunch then, and I took a photograph of the camp
with the
Queen's flag flying and also our tent flags, my companions being in the
picture. It was very cold, the temperature being minus 16° Fahr., and
the wind
went through us. All the afternoon we worked steadily uphill, and we
could see
at 6 P.M. the new land plainly trending to the southeast. This land is
very
much glaciated. It is comparatively bare of snow, and there are
well-defined
glaciers on the side of the range, which seems to end up in the
south-east with
a large mountain like a keep. We have called it "The Castle." Behind
these the mountains have more gentle slopes and are more rounded. They
seem to
fall away to the south-east, so that, as we are going south, the angle
opens
and we will soon miss them. When we camped at 6 P.M. the wind was
decreasing.
It is hard to understand this soft snow with such a persistent wind,
and I can
only suppose that we have not yet reached the actual plateau level, and
that
the snow we are travelling over just now is on the slopes, blown down
by the
south and south-east wind. We had a splendid dinner. First came hoosh,
consisting of pony ration boiled up with pemmican and some of our
emergency Oxo
and biscuit. Then in the cocoa water I boiled our little plum pudding,
which a
friend of Wild's had given him. This, with a drop of medical brandy,
was a
luxury which Lucullus himself might have envied; then came cocoa, and
lastly
cigars and a spoonful of creme de menthe sent us by a friend in
Scotland. We
are full to-night, and this is the last time we will be for many a long
day.
After dinner we discussed the situation, and we have decided to still
further
reduce our food. We have now nearly 500 miles, geographical, to do if
we are to
get to the Pole and back to the spot where we are at the present
moment. We
have one months' food, but only three weeks' biscuit, so we are going
to make
each week's food last ten days. We will have one biscuit in the
morning, three
at mid-day, and two at night. It is the only thing to do. To-morrow we
will
throw away everything except the most absolute necessities. Already we
are, as
regards clothes, down to the limit, but we must trust to the old
sledge-runners
and dump the spare ones. One must risk this. We are very far away from
all the
world, and home thoughts have been much with us to-day, thoughts
interrupted by
pitching forward into a hidden crevasse more than once. Ah, well, we
shall see
all our own people when the work here is done. Marshall took our
temperatures
to-night. We are all two degrees sub normal, but as fit as can be. It
is a fine
open-air life and we are getting south. December
26.
Got away at 7 A.M. sharp, after dumping a lot of gear. We marched
steadily all
day except for lunch, and we have done 14 miles 480 yards on an uphill
march,
with soft snow at times and a bad wind. Ridge after ridge we met, and
though
the surface is better and harder in places, we feel very tired at the
end of
ten hours' pulling. Our height to-night is 9590 ft. above sea-level
according
to the hypsometer. The ridges we meet with are almost similar in
appearance. We
see the sun shining on them in the distance, and then the rise begins
very
gradually. The snow gets soft, and the weight of the sledge becomes
more
marked. As we near the top the soft snow gives place to a hard surface,
and on
the summit of the ridge we find small crevasses. Every time we reach
the top of
a ridge we say to ourselves: "Perhaps this is the last," but it never
is the last; always there appears away ahead of us another ridge. I do
not
think that the land lies very far below the ice-sheet, for the
crevasses on the
summits of the ridges suggest that the sheet is moving over land at no
great
depth. It would seem that the descent towards the glacier proper from
the
plateau is by a series of terraces. We lost sight of the land to-day,
having
left it all behind us, and now we have the waste of snow all around.
Two more
days and our maize will be finished. Then our hooshes will be more
woefully
thin than ever. This shortness of food is unpleasant, but if we allow
ourselves
what, under ordinary circumstances, would be a reasonable amount, we
would have
to abandon all idea of getting far south. December
27.
If a great snow plain, rising every seven miles in a steep ridge, can
be called
a plateau, then we are on it at last, with an altitude above the sea of
9820
ft. We started at 7 A.M. and marched till noon, encountering at 11 A.M.
a steep
snow ridge which pretty well cooked us, but we got the sledge up by
noon and
camped. We are pulling 150 lb. per man. In the afternoon we had good
going till
5 P.M. and then another ridge as difficult as the previous one, so that
our
backs and legs were in a bad way when we reached the top at 6 P.M.,
having done
14 miles 930 yards for the day. Thank heaven it has been a fine day,
with
little wind. The temperature is minus 93 Fehr. This surface is most
peculiar,
showing layers of snow with little sastrugi all pointing
south-south-east.
Short food make us think of plum puddings, and hard half-cooked maize
gives us
indigestion, but we are getting south. The latitude is 86° 19' South
to-night.
Our thoughts are with the people at home a great deal. December
28.
If the Barrier is a changing sea, the plateau is a changing sky. During
the
morning march we continued to go up hill steadily, but the surface was
constantly changing. First there was soft snow in layers, then soft
snow so
deep that we were well over our ankles, and the temperature being well
below
zero, our feet were cold through sinking in. No one can say what we are
going
to find next, but we can go steadily ahead. We started at 6.55 A.M.,
and had
done 7 miles 200 yards by noon, the pulling being very hard. Some of
the snow
is blown into hard sastrugi, some that look perfectly smooth and hard
have only
a thin crust through which we break when pulling; all of it is a
trouble.
Yesterday we passed our last crevasse, though there are a few cracks or
ridges
fringed with crystals shining like diamonds, warning us that the cracks
are
open. We are now 10,199 ft. above sea-level, and the plateau is
gradually
flattening out, but it was heavy work pulling this afternoon. The high
altitude
and a temperature of 48° of frost made breathing and work difficult. We
are
getting south — latitude 86° 31' South to-night. The last sixty miles
we hope
to rush, leaving everything possible, taking one tent only and using
the poles
of the other as marks every ten miles, for we will leave all our food
sixty
miles off the Pole except enough to carry us there and back. I hope
with good
weather to reach the Pole on January 12, and then we will try and rush
it to
get to Hut Point by February 28. We are so tired after each hour's
pulling that
we throw ourselves on our backs for a three minutes' spell. It took us
over ten
hours to do 14 miles 450 yards to-day, but we did it all right. It is a
wonderful thing to be over 10,000 ft. up, almost at the end of the
world. The
short food is trying, but when we have done the work we will be happy.
Adams
had a bad headache all yesterday, and to-day I had the same trouble,
but it is
better now. Otherwise we are all fit and well. I think the country is
flattening out more and more, and hope to-morrow to make fifteen miles,
at
least. December
29.
Yesterday I wrote that we hoped to do fifteen miles to-day, but such is
the
variable character of this surface that one cannot prophesy with any
certainty
an hour ahead. A strong southerly wind, with from 44° to 49° of frost,
combined
with the effect of short rations, made our distance 12 miles 600 yards
instead.
We have reached an altitude of 10,310 ft., and an uphill gradient gave
us one
of the most severe pulls for ten hours that would be possible. It looks
serious, for we must increase the food if we are to get on at all, and
we must
risk a depot at seventy miles off the Pole and dash for it then. Our
sledge is
badly strained, and on the abominably bad surface of soft snow is
dreadfully
hard to move. I have been suffering from a bad headache all day, and
Adams also
was worried by the cold. I think that these headaches are a form of
mountain
sickness, due to our high altitude. The others have bled from the nose,
and
that must relieve them. Physical effort is always trying at a high
altitude,
and we are straining at the harness all day, sometimes slipping in the
soft
snow that overlies the hard sastrugi. My head is very bad. The
sensation is as
though the nerves were being twisted up with a corkscrew and then
pulled out.
Marshall took our temperatures to-night, and we are all at about 94°,
but in
spite of this we are getting south. We are only 198 miles off our goal
now. If
the rise would stop the cold would not matter, but it is hard to know
what is
man's limit. We have only 150 lb. per man to pull, but it is more
severe work
thank the 250 lb. per man up the glacier was. The Pole is hard to get. December
30.
We only did 4 miles 100 yards to-day. We started at 7 A.M., but had to
camp at
11 A.M., a blizzard springing up from the south. It is more than
annoying. I
cannot express my feelings. We were pulling at last on a level surface,
but
very soft snow, when at about 10 A.M. the south wind and drift
commenced to
increase, and at 11 A.M. it was so bad that we had to *amp. And here
all day we
have been lying in our sleeping-bags trying to keep warm and listening
to the
threshing drift on the tent-side. I am in the cooking-tent, and the
wind comes
through, it is so thin. Our precious food is going and the time also,
and it is
so important to us to get on. We lie here and think of how to make
things
better, but we cannot reduce food now, and the only thing will be to
rush all
possible at the end. We will do and are doing all humanly possible. It
is with
Providence to help us. December
31.
The last day of the old year, and the hardest day we have had almost,
pushing
through soft snow uphill with a strong head wind and drift all day. The
temperature is minus 7° Fahr., and our altitude is 10,477 ft. above
sea-level.
The altitude is trying. My head has been very bad all day, and we are
all
feeling the short food, but still we are getting south. We are in
latitude 86°
54' South to-night, but we have only three weeks' food and two weeks'
biscuit
to do nearly 500 geographical miles. We can only do our best. Too tired
to write
more to-night. We all get iced-up about our faces, and are on the verge
of
frost-bite all the time. Please God the weather will be fine during the
next
fourteen days. Then all will be well. The distance to-day was eleven
miles. NOTE. If we had
only known that we
were going to get such cold weather as we were at this time
experiencing, we
would have kept a pair of scissors to trim our beards. The moisture
from the
condensation of one's breath accumulated on the beard and trickled down
on to
the Burberry blouse. Then it froze into a sheet of ice inside, and it
became
very painful to pull the Burberry off in camp. Little troubles of this
sort
would have seemed less serious to us if we had been able to get a
decent feed
at the end of the day's work, but we were very hungry. We thought of
food most
of the time. The chocolate certainly seemed better than the cheese,
because the
two spoonfuls of cheese per man allowed under our scale of diet would
not last
as long as the two sticks of chocolate. We did not have both at the
same meal. We had the bad
luck at this time to
strike a tin in which the biscuits were thin and overbaked. Under
ordinary
circumstances they would probably have tasted rather better than the
other
biscuits, but we wanted bulk. We soaked them in our tea so that they
would
swell up and appear larger, but if one soaked a biscuit too much, the
sensation
of biting something was lost, and the food seemed to disappear much too
easily. January 1,
1909.
Head too bad
to write much. We did 11 miles 900 yards (statute) to-day,
and the latitude at 6 P.M. was 87° 6' South, so we have beaten North
and South
records. Struggling uphill all day in very soft snow. Every one done up
and
weak from want of food. When we camped at 6 P.M. fine warm weather,
thank God.
Only 1721 miles from the Pole. The height above sea-level, now 10,755
ft.,
makes all work difficult. Surface seems to be better ahead. I do trust
it will
be so to-morrow. January 2.
Terribly hard work to-day. We starteli at 6.45 et.m. with a fairly good
surface, which soon became very soft. We were sinking in over our
ankles, and
our broken sledge, by running sideways, added to the drag. We have been
going
uphill all day, and to-night are 11,034 ft. above sea-level. It has
taken us
all day to do 10 miles 450 yards, though the weights are fairly light.
A cold
wind, with a temperature of minus 14° Fahr., goes right through us now,
as we
are weakening from want of food, and the high altitude makes every
movement an
effort, especially if we stumble on the march. My head is giving me
trouble all
the time. Wild seems the most fit of us. God knows we are doing all we
can, but
the outlook is serious if this surface ciptinues and the plateau gets
higher,
for we are not travelling fast enough to make our food spin out and get
back to
our depot in time. I cannot think of failure yet. I must look at the
matter
sensibly and consider the lives of those who are with me. I feel that
if we go
on too far it will be impossible to get back over this surface, and
then all the
results will be lost to the world. We can now definitely locate the
South Pole
on the highest. plateau in the world, and our geological work and
meteorology
will be of the greatest use to science; but all this is not the Pole.
Man can
only do his best, and we have arrayed against us the strongest forces
of
nature. This cutting south wind with drift plays the mischief with us,
and
after ten hours of struggling against it one pannikin of food with two
biscuits
and a cap of cocoa does not warm one up much. I must think over the
situation
carefully to-morrow, for time is going on and food is going also. January 3.
Started at 6.55 A.M., cloudy but fairly warm. The temperature was minus
8°
Fahr. at noon. We had a terrible surface all the morning, and did only
5 miles
100 yards. A meridian altitude gave us latitude 87° 22' South at noon.
The
surface was better in the afternoon, and we did six geographical miles.
The
temperature at 6 P.M. was minus 11° Fahr. It was an uphill pull towards
the
evening, and we camped at 6.20 P.M., the altitude being 11,220 ft.
above the
sea. To-morrow we must risk making a depot on the plateau, and make a
dash for
it, but even then, if this surface continues, we will be two weeks in
carrying
it through.
FACSIMILE OF PAGE OF SHACKLETON'S DIARY January 4.
The end is in sight. We can only go for three more days at the most,
for we are
weakening rapidly. Short food and a blizzard wind from the south, with
driving
drift, at a temperature of 47° of frost, have plainly told us to-day
that we
are reaching our limit, for we were so done up at noon with cold that
the
clinical thermometer failed to register the temperature of three of us
at 94°.
We started at 7.40 A.M., leaving a depot on this great wide plateau, a
risk
that only this case justified, and one that my comrades agreed to, as
they have
to every one so far, with the same cheerfulness and regardlessness of
self that
have been the means of our getting as far as we have done so far.
Pathetically
small looked the bamboo, one of the tent poles, with a bit of bag sewn
on as a
flag, to mark our stock of provisions, which has to take us back to our
depot,
one hundred and fifty miles north. We lost sight of it in half an hour,
and are
now trusting to our footprints in the snow to guide us back to each
bamboo
until we pick up the depot again. I trust that the weather will keep
clear.
To-day we have done 12½ geographical miles, and with only 70 lb. per
man to
pull it is as hard, even harder, work than the 100 odd lb. was
yesterday, and
far harder than the 250 lb. were three weeks ago, when we were climbing
the
glacier. This, I consider, is a clear indication of our failing
strength. The
main thing against us is the altitude of 11,200 ft. and the biting
wind. Our
faces are cut, and our feet and hands are always on the verge of
frost-bite. Our
fingers, indeed, often go, but we get them round more or less. I have
great
trouble with two fingers on my left hand. They had been badly jammed
when we
were getting the motor up over the
ice face at
winter quarters, and the circulation is not
good. Our boots now are pretty well worn out, and we have to halt at
times to
pick the snow out of the soles. Our stock of sennegrass is nearly
exhausted, so
we have to use the same frozen stuff day after day. Another trouble is
that the
lamp-wick with which we tie the finnesko is chafed through, and we have
to tie
knots in it. These knots catch the snow under our feet, making a lump
that has
to be cleared every now and then. I am of the opinion that to sledge
even in the
height of summer on this plateau, we should have at least forty ounces
of food
a day per man, and we are on short rations of the ordinary allowance of
thirty-two ounces. We depoted our extra underclothing to save weight
about
three weeks ago, and are now in the same clothes night and day. One
suit of
underclothing, shirt and guernsey, and our thin Burberries, now all
patched.
When we get up in the morning, out of the wet bag, our Burberries
become like a
coat of mail at once, and our heads and beards get iced-up with the
moisture
when breathing on the march. There is half a gale blowing dead in our
teeth all
the time. We hope to reach within 100 geographical miles of the Pole;
under the
circumstances we can expect to do very little more. I am confident that
the
Pole lies on the great plateau we have discovered, miles and miles from
any
outstanding land. The temperature tonight is minus 24° Fahr. January 5.
To-day head wind and drift again, with 50° of frost, and a terrible
surface. We
have been marching through 8 in. of snow, covering sharp sastrugi,
which plays
havoc with our feet, but we have done 131 geographical miles, for we
increased
our food, seeing that it was absolutely necessary to do this to enable
us to
accomplish anything. I realise that the food we have been having has
not been
sufficient to keep up our strength, let alone supply the wastage caused
by
exertion, and now we must try to keep warmth in us, though our strength
is
being used up. Our temperatures at 5 A.M. were 94° Fahr. We got away at
7 A.M.
sharp and marched till noon, then from 1 P.M. sharp till 6 P.M. All
being in
one tent makes our camp-work slower, for we are so cramped for room,
and we get
up at 4.40 A.M. so as to get away by 7 A.M. Two of us have to stand
outside the
tent at night until things are squared up inside, and we find it cold
work.
Hunger grips us hard, and the food-supply is very small. My head still
gives me
great trouble. I began by wishing that my worst enemy had it instead of
myself,
but now I don't wish even my worst enemy to have such a headache;
still, it is
no use talking about it. Self is a subject that most of us are fluent
on. We
find the utmost difficulty in carrying through the day, and we can only
go for
two or three more days. Never once has the temperature been above zero
since we
got on to the plateau, though this is the height of summer. We have
done our
best, and we thank God for having allowed us to get so far. January 6.
This must be our last outward march with the sledge and camp equipment.
To-morrow
we must leave camp with some food, and push as far south as possible,
and then
plant the flag. To-day's story is 57° of frost, with a strong blizzard
and high
drift; yet we marched 13i geographical miles through soft snow, being
helped by
extra food. This does not mean full rations, but a bigger ration than
we have
been having lately. The pony maize is all finished. The most trying day
we have
yet spent, our fingers and faces being frost-bitten continually.
To-morrow we
will rush south with the flag. We are at 88° 7' South to-night. It is
our last
outward march. Blowing hard to-night. I would fail to explain my
feelings if I
tried to write them down, now that the end has come. There is only one
thing
that lightens the disappointment, and that is the feeling that we have
done all
we could. It is the forces of nature that have prevented us from going
right
through. I cannot write more. January 7. A
blinding, shrieking blizzard all day, with the temperature ranging from
60° to
70° of frost. It has been impossible to leave the tent, which is snowed
up on
the lee side. We have been lying in our bags all day, only warm at food
time,
with fine snow making through the walls of the worn tent and covering
our bags.
We are greatly cramped. Adams is suffering from cramp every now and
then. We
are eating our valuable food without marching. The wind has been
blowing eighty
to ninety miles an hour. We can hardly sleep. To-morrow I trust this
will be
over. Directly the wind drops we march as far south as possible, then
plant the
flag, and turn homeward. Our chief anxiety is lest our tracks may drift
up, for
to them we must trust mainly to find our depot; we have no land
bearings in
this great plain of snow. It is a serious risk that we have taken, but
we had
to play the game to the utmost, and Providence will look after us. THE FARTHEST SOUTH CAMP AFTER SIXTY HOURS' BLIZZARD January 8.
Again all day in our bags, suffering considerably physically from cold
hands
and feet, and from hunger, but more mentally, for we cannot get on
south, and
we simply lie here shivering. Every now and then one of our party's
feet go,
and the unfortunate beggar has to take his leg out of the sleeping-bag
and have
his frozen foot nursed into life again by placing it inside the shirt,
against
the skin of his almost equally unfortunate neighbour. We must do
something more
to the south, even though the food is going, and we weaken lying in the
cold,
for with 72° of frost the wind cuts through our thin tent, and even the
drift
is finding its way in and on to our bags, which are wet enough as it
is. Cramp
is not uncommon every now and then, and the drift all round the tent
has made
it so small that there is hardly room for us at all. The wind has been
blowing
hard all day; some of the gusts must be over seventy or eighty miles an
hour.
This evening it seems as though it were going to ease down, and
directly it
does we shall be up and away south for a rush. I feel that this march
must be
our limit. We are so short of food, and at this high altitude, 11,600
ft., it
is hard to keep any warmth in our bodies between the scanty meals. We
have
nothing to read now, having depoted our little books to save weight,
and it is
dreary work lying in the tent with nothing to read, and too cold to
write much
in the diary. |