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CHAPTER XVIII SOME NOTES ON THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY "Turning Backs": Pony Soup: The "Wild Roll": Frost-bite: Glacier Surfaces: Painful Falls: Particular Duties assigned to each Member of the Southern Party WE brought back
with us from the
journey towards the Pole vivid memories of how it feels to be
intensely,
fiercely hungry. During the period from November 15, 1908, to February
23,
1909, we had but one full meal, and that was on Christmas Day. Even
then we did
not keep the sense of repletion for very long for within an hour or two
it
seemed to us that we were as hungry as ever. Our daily allowance of
food would
have been a small one for a city worker in a temperate climate, and in
our case
hunger was increased by the fact that we were performing vigorous
physical
labour in a very low temperature. We looked forward to each meal with
keen
anticipation, but when the food was in our hands it seemed to disappear
without
making us any the less ravenous. The evening meal at the end of ten
hours'
sledging used to take us a long time to prepare. The sledges had to be
unpacked
and the camp pitched. Then the cooker was filled with snow and the
primus lamp
lit, often no easy matter with our cold, frost-bitten fingers. The
materials
for the thin hoosh would be placed in the boiling-pot, with the
addition,
perhaps, of some pony maize, and the allowance of tea was placed in the
outer
boiler. The tea was always put in a strainer, consisting of a small tin
in
which we had punched a lot of holes, and it was removed directly the
water had
come to the boil. We used to sit round the cooker waiting for our food,
and at
last the hoosh would be ready and would be ladled into the pannikins by
the
cook of the week. The scanty allowance of biscuit would be distributed
and we
would commence the meal. In a couple of minutes the hot food would be
gone, and
we would gnaw carefully round the sides of our biscuits, making them
last as
long as possible. Marshall used sometimes to stand his pannikin of
hoosh in the
snow for a little while, because it got thicker as it cooled, but it
was a
debatable point whether this paid. One seemed to be getting more solid
food,
but there was a loss of warmth and in the minus temperatures on the
plateau we found
it advisable to take our hoosh very hot. We would make the biscuits
last as
long as possible, and sometimes we tried to save a bit to eat in the
sleeping-bag later on, but it was hard to do this. If one of us dropped
a
crumb, the others would point it out, and the owner would wet his
finger in his
mouth and pick up the morsel. Not the smallest fragment was allowed to
escape. We used to
"turn backs" in
order to ensure equitable division of the food. The cook would pour the
hoosh
into the pannikins and arrange the biscuits in four heaps. Perhaps some
one
would suggest that one pannikin had rather less in it than another, and
if this
view was endorsed by the others there would be a readjustment. Then
when we
were all satisfied that the food had been divided as fairly as
possible, one
man would turn his back, and another, pointing at one pannikin or group
of
biscuits would say, "Whose?" The man who had his back turned, and
therefore could not see the food, would give a name, and so the
distribution
would proceed, each of us always feeling sure that the smallest share
had
fallen to his lot. At lunch-time there would be chocolate or cheese to
distribute on alternate days, and we much preferred the chocolate days
to the
cheese days. The chocolate seemed more satisfying, and it was more
easily
divided. The cheese broke up into very small fragments on the march,
and the
allowance, which amounted to two spoonfuls per man, had to be divided
up as
nearly as possible into four equal heaps. The chocolate could be easily
separated into sticks of equal size. It can be imagined that the cook
for the
week had no easy task. His work became more difficult still when we
were using
pony-meat, for the meat and blood, when boiled up, made a delightful
broth,
while the fragments of meat sunk to the bottom of the pot. The liquor
was much
the better part of the dish, and no one had much relish for the little
dice of
tough and stringy meat, so the cook had to be very careful indeed. Poor
old
Chinaman was a particularly tough and stringy horse. We found that
the meat from the neck
and rump was the best, the most stringy portions coming from the ribs
and legs.
We took all the meat we could, tough or tender, and as we went south in
the
days when horse-meat was fairly plentiful, we used to suck frozen, raw
fragments as we marched along. Later we could not afford to use the
meat except
on a definite allowance. The meat to be used during the day was
generally cut
up when we took a spell in the morning, and the bag containing the
fragments was
hung on the back of the sledge in order that the meat might be softened
by the
sun. It cut more easily when frozen than when partially thawed, but our
knives
gradually got blunt, and on the glacier we secured a rock on which to
sharpen
them. During the journey back, when every ounce of weight was of great
importance, we used one of our geological specimens, a piece of
sandstone, as a
knife-sharpener. The meat used to bulk large in the pot, but as fresh
meat
contains about 60 per cent. of moisture, it used to shrink considerably
in the
process of cooking, and we did not have to use very much snow in the
pot. We used the
meat immediately we had
started to kill the ponies in order to save the other food, for we knew
that
the meat contained a very large percentage of water, so that we would
be
carrying useless weight with it. The pemmican and biscuits, on the
other hand,
contained very little moisture, and it was more profitable to keep them
for the
march further south, when we were likely to want to reduce the loads as
far as
possible. We left meat at each depot, to provide for the march back to
the
coast, but always took on as much as possible of the prepared foods.
The reader
will understand that the loss of Socks, which represented so many
pounds of
meat, was a very severe blow to us, for we had after that to use
sledging
stores at the depots to make up for the lost meat. If we had been able
to use
Socks for food, I have no doubt that we would have been able to get
further
south, perhaps even to the Pole itself, though in that case we could
hardly
have got back in time to catch the ship before she was forced to leave
by the
approach of winter. When we were
living on meat our
desire for cereals and farinaceous foods became stronger; indeed any
particular
sort of food of which we were deprived seemed to us to be the food for
which
nature craved. When we were short of sugar we would dream of
sweet-stuffs, and
when biscuits were in short supply our thoughts were concerned with
crisp
loaves and all the other good things displayed in the windows of the
bakers'
shops. During the last weeks of the journey outwards, and the long
march back,
when our allowance of food had been reduced to twenty ounces per man a
day, we
really thought of little but food. The glory of the great mountains
that
towered high on either side, the majesty of the enormous glacier up
which we
travelled so painfully, did not appeal to our emotions to any great
extent. Man
becomes very primitive when he is hungry and short of food, and we
learned to
know what it is to be desperately hungry. I used to wonder sometimes
whether
the people who suffer from hunger in the big cities of civilisation
felt as we
were feeling, and I arrived at the conclusion that they did not, for no
barrier
of law and order would have been allowed to stand between us and any
food that
had been available. The man who starves in a city is weakened,
hopeless,
spiritless, and we were vigorous and keen. Until January 9 the desire
for food
was made the more intense by our knowledge of the fact that we were
steadily
marching away from the stores of plenty. We could not
joke about food, in the
way that is possible for the man who is hungry in the ordinary sense.
We
thought about it most of the time, and on the way back we used to talk
about
it, but always in the most serious manner possible. We used to plan out
the
enormous meals that we proposed to have when we got back to the ship
and,
later, to civilisation. On the outward march we did not experience
really
severe hunger until we got on the great glacier, and then we were too
much
occupied with the heavy and dangerous climbing over the rough ice and
crevasses
to be able to talk much. We had to keep some distance apart in case one
man
fell into a crevasse. Then on the plateau our faces were generally
coated with
ice, and the blizzard wind blowing from the south made unnecessary
conversation
out of the question. Those were silent days, and our remarks to one
another
were brief and infrequent. It was on the march back that we talked
freely of
food, after we had got down the glacier and were marching over the
barrier
surface. The wind was behind us, so that the pulling was not very
heavy, and as
there were no crevasses to fear we were able to keep close together. We
would
get up at 5 A.M. in order to make a start at 7 A.M., and after we had
eaten our
scanty breakfast, that seemed only to accentuate hunger, and had begun
the
day's march, we could take turns in describing the things we would eat
in the
good days to come. We were each going to give a dinner to the others in
turn,
and there was to be an anniversary dinner every year, at which we would
be able
to eat and eat and eat. No French chef ever devoted more thought to the
invention of new dishes than we did. It is with
strange feelings that I
look back over our notes, and see the wonderful meals that we were
going to
have. We used to tell each other, with perfect seriousness, about the
new
dishes that we had thought of, and if the dish met with general
approval there
would be a chorus of, "Ah! That's good." Sometimes there would be an
argument as to whether a suggested dish was really an original
invention, or
whether it did not too nearly resemble something that we had already
tasted in
happier days. The "Wild roll" was admitted to be the high-water mark
of gastronomic luxury. Wild proposed that the cook should take a supply
of
well-seasoned minced meat, wrap it in rashers of fat bacon, and place
around
the whole an outer covering of rich pastry so that it would take the
form of a
big sausage-roll. Then this roll would be fried with plenty of fat. My
best
dish, which I must admit I put forward with a good deal of pride as we
marched
over the snow, was a sardine pasty, made by placing well-fried sardines
inside
pastry. At least ten tins of sardines were to be emptied on to a bed of
pastry,
and the whole then rolled up and cooked, preparatory to its division
into four
equal portions. I remember one day Marshall came forward with a
proposal for a
thick roll of suet pudding with plenty of jam all over it, and there
arose
quite a heated argument as to whether he could fairly claim this dish
to be an
invention, or whether it was not the jam roll already known to the
housewives
of civilisation. There was one point on which we were all agreed, and
that was
that we did not want any jellies or things of that sort at our future
meals.
The idea of eating such elusive stuff as jelly had no appeal to us at
all. On a typical
day during this
backward march we would leave camp at about 6.40 A.M., and half an hour
later
would have recovered our frost-bitten fingers, while the moisture on
our
clothes, melted in the sleeping-bags, would have begun to ablate, after
having
first frozen hard. We would be beginning to march with some degree of
comfort,
and one of us would remark, " Well, boys, what are we going to have for
breakfast to-day ? We had just finished our breakfast as a matter of
fact,
consisting of half a pannikin of semi-raw horse-meat, one biscuit and a
half a
pannikin of tea, but the meal had not taken the keenness from our
appetites. We
used to try to persuade ourselves that our half-biscuit was not quite a
half,
and sometimes we managed to get a little bit more that way. The
question would
receive our most serious and careful consideration at once, and we
would
proceed to weave from our hungry imaginations a tale of a day spent in
eating.
"Now we are on board ship," one man would say. "We wake up in a
bunk, and the first thing we do is to stretch out our hands to the side
of the
bunk and get some chocolate, some Garibaldi biscuits and some apples.
We eat
those in the bunk, and then we get up for breakfast. Breakfast will be
at eight
o'clock, and we will have porridge, fish, bacon and eggs, cold ham,
plum
pudding, sweets, fresh roll and butter, marmalade and coffee. At eleven
o'clock
we will have hot cocoa, open jam tarts, fried cods' roe and slices of
heavy
plum cake. That will be all until lunch at one o'clock. For lunch we
will have
Wild roll, shepherd's pie, fresh soda-bread, hot milk, treacle pudding,
nuts,
raisins, and cake. After
that we will
turn in for a sleep, and we will be called at 3.45, when we will reach
out
again from the bunks and have dough-nuts and sweets. We will get up
then and
have big cups of hot tea and fresh cake and chocolate Dreams. Dinner
will be at
six, and we will have thick soup, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding,
cauliflower, peas, asparagus, plum pudding, fruit, apple-pie with thick
cream,
scones and butter, port wine, nuts, and almonds and raisins. Then at
midnight
we will have a really big meal, just before we go to bed. There will be
melon,
grilled trout and butter-sauce, roast chicken with plenty of livers, a
proper
salad with eggs and very thick dressing, green peas and new potatoes, a
saddle
of mutton, fried suet pudding, peaches a la Melba, egg curry, plum
pudding and
sauce, Welsh rarebit, Queen's pudding, angels on horseback, cream
cheese and
celery, fruit, nuts, port wine, milk, and cocoa. Then we will go to bed
and
sleep till breakfast time. We will have chocolate and biscuits under
our
pillows, and if we want anything to eat in the night we will just have
to get
it." Three of us would listen to this programme and perhaps suggest
amendments and improvements generally in the direction of additional,
dishes,
and then another one of us would take up the running and sketch another
glorious day of feeding and sleeping. I daresay that
all this sounds very
greedy and uncivilised to the reader who has never been on the verge of
starvation, but as I have said before, hunger makes a man primitive. We
did not
smile at ourselves or at each other as we planned wonderful feats of
over-eating. We were perfectly serious about the matter, 1and we noted
down in the back pages
of our diaries details of the meals
that
we had decided to have as soon as we got back to the places where food
was
plentiful. All the morning we would allow our imaginations to run riot
in this
fashion. Then would come one o'clock, and I would look at my watch and
say
"Camp!" We would drop the harness from our tired bodies and pitch the
tent on the smoothest place available, and three of us would get inside
to wait
for the thin and scanty meal, while the other man filled the cooker
with snow
and fragments of frozen meat. An hour later we would be on the march
again,
once more thinking and talking of food, and this would go on until the
camp in
the evening. We would have another scanty meal, and turn into the
sleeping-bags, to dream wildly of food that somehow we could never
manage to
eat. The dysentery
from which we suffered
during the latter part of the journey back to the coast was certainly
due to
the meat from the pony Grisi. This animal was shot one night when in a
greatly
exhausted condition, and I believe that his flesh was made poisonous by
the
presence of the toxin of exhaustion, as is the case with animals that
have been
hunted. Wild was the first to suffer, at the time when we started to
use Grisi
meat with the other meat, and he must have been unfortunate enough to
get the
greater part of the bad meat on that occasion. The other meat we were
using
then came from Chinaman, and seemed to be quite wholesome. A few days
later we
were all eating Grisi meat, and we all got dysentery. The meat could
not have
become affected in any way after the death of the pony, because it
froze hard
within a very short time. The manner in which we managed to keep on
marching
when suffering, and the speed with which we recovered when we got
proper food,
were rather remarkable, and the reason, no doubt, was that the
dysentery was
simply the result of the poison, and was not produced by organic
trouble of any
sort. We had a strong wind behind us day after day during this period,
and this
contributed in a very large measure to our safety, for in the weakened
condition we had then reached we could not have made long marches
against a
head-wind, and without long marches we would have starved between the
depots.
We had a sail on the sledge, formed of the floorcloth of a tent, and
often the
sledge would overrun us, though at other times it would catch in a
drift and
throw us heavily. When we were
travelling along during
the early part of the journey over the level Barrier surface, we felt
the heat
of the sun severely, though as a matter of fact the temperature was
generally
very low, sometimes as low as zero Fahr. though the season was the
height of
summer. It was quite usual to feel one side of the face getting frozen
while
the other side was being sunburned. The ponies would have frozen
perspiration
on their coats on the sheltered side, while the sun would keep the
other side
hot and dry, and as the day wore on and the sun moved' round the sky
the
frosted area on the animals would change its position in sympathy. I
remember
that on December 4 we were marching stripped to our shirts, and we got
very
much sunburned, though at noon that day the air temperature showed ten
degrees
of frost. When we started to climb the glacier and marched close to the
rocks,
we felt the heat much more, for the rocks acted as radiators, and this
experience weighed with me in deciding to leave all the spare clothing
and
equipment at the Upper Glacier Depot, about seven thousand feet up. We
did not
expect to have to climb much higher, but, as the reader knows, we did
not reach
the plateau until we had climbed over ten thousand feet above
sea-level, and so
we felt the cold extremely. Our wind-proof Burberry clothing had become
thin by
this time, and had been patched in many places in consequence of having
been
torn on the sharp ice. The wind got in through a tear in my Burberry
trousers
one day and I was frost-bitten on the under part of the knee. This
frost-bite
developed into an open wound, into which the wool from my underclothing
worked,
and I had finally to perform a rather painful operation with a knife
before the
wound would heal. We were continually being frost-bitten up on the
plateau, and
when our boots had begun to give out and we were practically marching
on the
sennegrass inside the finnesko, our heels got frost-bitten. My heels
burst when
we got on to hard stuff, and for some time my socks were caked with
blood at
the end of every day's march. Finally Marshall put some " Newskin "
on a pad, and that stuck on well until the cracks had healed. The scars
are
likely to remain with me. In the very cold days, when our strength had
begun to
decrease, we found great difficulty in hoisting the sail on our sledge,
for
when we lifted our arms above our heads in order to adjust the sail,
the blood
ran from our fingers and they promptly froze. Ten minutes or a quarter
of an
hour sometimes elapsed before we could get the sledge properly rigged.
Our
troubles with frost-bits were no doubt due in a measure to the
lightness of our
clothing, but there was compensation in the speed with which we were
able to
travel. I have no doubt at all that men engaged in polar exploration
should be
clothed as lightly as is possible, even if there is a danger of
frost-bite when
they halt on the march. The surface
over which we travelled
during the southern journey changed continually. During the first few
days we
found a layer of soft snow on top of a hard crust, with more soft snow
underneath that again. Our weight was sufficient to break through the
soft snow
on top, and if we were pulling the increased pressure would cause the
crust to break
also, letting us through into the second layer of soft snow. This
surface made
the travelling very heavy. Until we had got beyond Minna Bluff we often
passed
over high, sharp sastrugi, and beyond that we met with ridges four to
six feet
high. The snow generally was dry and powdery, but some of the crystals
were
large, and showed in reflected light all the million colours of
diamonds. After
we had passed latitude 80° South the snow got softer day by day, and
the ponies
would often break through the upper crust and sink in right up to their
bellies. When the sun was hot the travelling would be much better, for
the
surface snow got near the melting-point and formed a slippery layer not
easily
broken. Then again a fall in the temperature would produce a thin
crust,
through which one broke very easily. Between latitude 80° South and 83°
South
there were hard sastrugi under the soft snow, and the hoofs of the
horses
suffered in consequence. The surface near the land was broken up by
pressure
from the glaciers, but right alongside the mountains there was a smooth
plain
of glassy ice, caused by the freezing of water that had run off the
rocky
slopes when they were warm under the rays of the sun. This process had
been
proceeding on the snow slopes that we had to climb in order to reach
the
glacier. Here at the foot of the glacier there were pools of clear
water round
the rocks, and we were able to drink as much as we wanted, though the
contact
of the cold water with our cracked lips was painful. The glacier
itself presented every
variety of surface, from soft snow to cracked and riven blue ice,
by-and-by the
only constant feature were the crevasses, from which we were never
free. Some
were entirely covered with a crust of soft snow, and we discovered them
only
when one of us broke through, and hung by his harness from the sledge.
Others
occurred in mazes of rotten ice, and were even more difficult to
negotiate than
the other sort. The least unpleasant of the crevasses were those that
were wide
open and easily seen, with firm ice on either side. If these crevasses
were not
too wide, we would pull the sledges up to the side, then jump over, and
pull
them after us. This was more difficult than it sounds from the fact
that the
ice gave only a very uncertain footing, but we always had the harness
as a
safeguard in case of a fall. If the crevasses were wide we had to make
a
detour. The sledges, owing to their length, were not liable to slip
down a
orevasse, and we felt fairly safe when we were securely attached to
them by the
harness. When the surface was so bad that relay work became necessary
we used
to miss the support of a sledge on the back journeys. We would advance
one
sledge half a mile or a mile, put up a bamboo pole to mark the spot,
and then
go back for the other. We were roped together for the walk back to the
second
sledge, but even then we felt a great deal less secure than when
harnessed to
one of the long, heavy sledges. On some days we had to travel up steep
slopes
of smooth ice, and often it became necessary to cut steps with our
ice-axes,
and haul the sledges after us with the alpine rope. When we had gone up
about
sixty feet, the length of the rope, we would haul up the sledge to
which we had
attached the lower end, and jamb it so that it could not slide back.
Then one
of us would slide down in order to fix the rope to the other sledge. One of the
curious features of the
glacier was a yellow line, evidently an old moraine, extending for
thirty or
forty miles. The rocks of the moraine had gradually sunk in out of
sight, the
radiation of the sun's heat from them causing the ice to melt and let
them
through, and there had remained enough silt and dust to give the ice a
dirty
yellow appearance. The travelling along this old moraine was not so
bad, but on
either side of it there was a mass of pressure ice, caused by the
constriction
of the glacier between the mountains to the east and west.
Unfortunately we
brought back no photographs of this portion of the glacier. The number
of
plates at our disposal was limited, and on the outward march we decided
not to
take many photographs in case we found interesting land or mountains in
the far
south nearer the Pole. We thought that we would be able to secure as
many
photographs of the glacier as we wanted on the way back if we had the
plates to
spare, but as a matter of fact when we did get on to the glacier a
second time
we were so short of food that we could not afford the time to unpack
the
camera, which had to be stowed away carefully on the sledge in order to
avoid
damage to it. Many nights on
the glacier there was
no snow on which to pitch the tents, and we had to spend perhaps an
hour
smoothing out a space on a rippled, sharp-pointed sea of ice. The
provision
bags and sledges had to be packed on the snow cloths round the tents,
and it
was indeed fortunate for us that we did not meet with any bad weather
while we
were marching up the glacier. Had a blizzard come on while we were
asleep, it
would have scattered our goods far and wide, and we would have been
faced with
a very serious position. All the time that we were climbing the glacier
we had
a northerly wind behind us, although the direction of the sastrugi
showed
clearly that the prevailing wind was from the south; when we were
coming back
later in the season the wind was behind us all the time. We encountered
a
strong wind on the outward journey when near the top of the glacier,
and as the
ice slopes were covered with snow it was difficult to pull the sledges
up them.
When we reached the same slopes on the way back, the summer sun had
cleared the
snow from them, leaving clear ice, and we simply glissaded down all but
the
steepest slopes, although one of the sledge runners was very badly
torn. We had
to travel carefully on the steep slopes, for if we had let the sledge
get out
of hand it would have run away altogether, and would probably have been
smashed
up hundreds of feet below. The Upper
Glacier Depot was overhung
by great cliffs of rock, shattered by the frosts and storms of
countless
centuries, and many fragments were poised in such a fashion that
scarcely more
than a touch seemed needed to bring them hurtling down. All around us
on the
ice lay rocks that had recently fallen from the heights, and we
wondered
whether some boulder would come down upon us while we were in camp. We
had no
choice of a camping-ground, as all around was rough ice. The cliffs
were
composed largely of weathered sandstone, and it was on the same
mountains,
higher up the glacier, that the coal was found, at a point where the
slope was
comparatively gentle. Looking down from this height, we could see the
glacier
stretching away to the point of junction with the Barrier, the
mountains rising
to east and west. Many of the mountains to the west of the glacier were
more or
less dome-shaped, but there were some sharp conical peaks to the
westward of
the particular mountain under which the Upper Glacier Depot had been
placed.
There were three distinct peaks, and the plateau ice sweeping down made
a long
moraine on the west side of the glacier. To the eastward there was a
long ridge
of high mountains, fairly uniform in shape and without any sharp peaks,
but
with ridges, apparently of granite, projecting towards the west and so
constricting the glacier. The mountains were distant about twenty-five
miles, but
well-defined stratification lines could plainly be seen. Below us, as
we looked
from the depot, could be seen the cumulus clouds that always hung above
"The
Cloudmaker." When we looked
to the south from
this depot we saw no clouds; there was nothing but hard clear sky. The
sky gave
no indication of the blizzard winds that were to assail us when we
reached the
plateau, and after we had gone as far south as we could and retraced
our
footsteps to the depot, we looked back and saw the same clear sky, with
a few
wisps of fleecy cloud in it. We had no doubt that below those clouds
the
pitiless gale was still raging across the great frozen plain, and that
the wind
which followed us during our march back to the coast was coming from
the
vicinity of the Pole. As we advanced from the Upper Glacier Depot we
came upon
great ice falls. The surface looked smooth from a distance, and we
thought that
we were actually on the plateau, but as we advanced we saw that before
us lay
enormous ridges rising abruptly. We had to relay our gear over these
ridges,
and often at the tops there would be a great crevasse, from which would
radiate
smaller crevasses fringed with crystals and showing ghastly depths
below. We
would creep forward to see what lay on the other side, and perhaps
would find a
fall of fifty feet, with a grade of about 1 in 3. Many times we risked
our
sledge on very severe slopes, allowing it to glissade down, but other
times the
danger of a smash was too great, and we had to lower the sledge slowly
and
carefully with the rope. The ice was safe enough to walk upon at this
time
except at the ridges, where the crevasses were severe, for the smaller
crevasses in the hollows and slopes could be passed without difficulty.
The ice falls
delayed us a good
deal, and then we got into soft snow, over which the sledge dragged
heavily. We
thought that we were finally on the plateau level, but within a few
days we
came to fresh ridges and waves of pressure ice. The ice between the
waves was
very rotten, and many times we fell through when we put our weight on
it. We
fastened the alpine rope to the sledge harness, and the first man
pulled at a
distance of about eighteen feet from the sledge, while the whole party
was so
scattered that no two men could fall into a orevasse together. We got
on to
better ground by steering to the wetwward, but this step was rather
dangerous,
for by taking this course we travelled parallel with the crevasses and
were not
able to meet them at right angles. Many times we nearly lost the sledge
and ourselves
when the ice started to break away into an unseen crevasse running
parallel with
our course. We felt very grateful to Providence that the weather
remained
clear, for we could not have moved a yard over this rotten ice in thick
weather
without courting disaster. I do not know whether the good weather we
experienced in that neighbourhood was normal. We generally had about
seven
miles of easy going after we had passed one ridge in this area, and
then
another ridge would rise up ahead of us, and we would start to climb
again.
There were always crevasses at the top of the ridges, suggesting that
the ice
was moving over land at no great depth. We passed the
last ridge at last,
and reached the actual plateau, but instead of hard neve, such as the Discovery expedition had encountered in
the journey to the plateau beyond the mountains west of McMurdo Sound,
we found
soft snow and hard sastrugi. All the sastrugi pointed to the south, and
the
wind blew strongly nearly all the time from the south or south-east,
with an
occasional change to the south-west. Sometimes we marched on hard
sastrugi, and
at other times we had soft snow under our feet, but could feel the
sastrugi on
which the snow was lying. I formed the opinion that during the winter
on the
plateau the wind must blow with terrible violence from the south, and
that the
hard sastrugi are produced then. Still further south wt3 kept breaking
through
a hard crust that underlay the soft surface snow, and we then sank in
about
eight inches. This surface, which made the marching heavy, continued to
the
point at which we planted the flag. After the long blizzard, from the
night of
January 6 until the morning of January 9, we had a better surface over
which to
make our final march southwards, for the wind had swept the soft snow
away and
produced a fairly hard surface, over which, unencumbered with a sledge
as we
were, we could advance easily. We found the
surface generally to be
improved on the march back. The blizzard winds had removed the soft
surface
snow, and incidentally uncovered many of the crevasses. We were
following our
outward tracks. and often I noticed the tracks lead us to the edge of a
crevasse which had been covered previously and over which we had passed
in
ignorance of our danger on the march southwards. When we got to the
head of the
glacier we tried to take a short cut to the point where we had left the
Upper
Glacier Depot, but we got enmeshed in a maze of crevasses and pressure
ridges
to the eastward, and so had to steer a westerly direction again in
order to get
clear. The dangers that we did know were preferable to those that we
did not
know. On the way down
the glacier we found
all the snow stripped away by the wind and sun for nearly one hundred
miles,
and we travelled over slippery blue ice, with innumerable cracks and
sharp
edges. We had many painful falls during this part of the journey. Then
when
about forty miles from the foot of the glacier we got into deep soft
snow
again, over which rapid progress was impossible. There had evidently
been a
heavy snowfall in this area while we were further south, and for days,
while
our food was running short, we could see ahead of us the rocks under
which the
depot had been placed. We toiled with painful slowness towards the
rocks, and
as the reader has already learned we were without any food at all for
the last
thirty hours of that march. We found the Barrier surface to be very
soft when
we got off the Glacier, but after we had passed Grisi Depot there was
an
improvement. The surface remained fairly good until we reached the
winter
quarters, and in view of our weakened condition it was fortunate for us
that it
did so. In reviewing
the experience gained
on the southern journey, I do not think that I could suggest any
improvement in
equipment for any future expedition. The Barrier surface evidently
varies in a
remarkable fashion, and its condition cannot be anticipated with any
degree of
certainty. The traveller must be prepared for either a hard surface or
a very
soft one, and he may get both surfaces in the course of one day's
march. The
eleven-foot sledge is thoroughly suitable for the work, and our method
of
packing the stores and hauling the sledges did not develop any weak
points. We
would have been glad to have had crampons for use on the glacier; what
would be
better still would be heavy alpine boots with nails all round, for very
often
the surface would give little grip to crampons, which would only touch
the
rough ice at one or two points. The temperature is too cold to permit
of the
explorer wearing ordinary leather boots, and some boot would have to be
designed capable of keeping the feet warm and carrying the nails all
round. A
mast consisting of a bamboo lashed to the forward oil-box proved as
efficient
as could be required for use in connection with a sail on the sledges.
It was
easily rigged and had no elaborate stays. I would suggest no change in
the
clothing, for the light woollen underclothing, with thin windproof
material
outside, proved most satisfactory in every way. We could certainly not
have
travelled so fast had we been wearing the regulation pilot cloth
garment
generally used in polar exploration. Our experience made it obvious
that a
party which hopes to reach the Pole must take more food per man than we
did,
but how the additional weight is to be provided for is a matter for
individual
consideration. I would not take cheese again, for although it is a good
food,
we did not find it as palatable as chocolate, which is practically as
sustaining. Our other foods were all entirely satisfactory. Each member of
the Southern Party
had his own particular duties to perform. Adams had charge of the
meteorology,
and his work involved the taking of temperatures at regular intervals,
and the
boiling of the hypsometer, sometimes several times in a day. He took
notes
during the day, and wrote up the observations at night in the
sleeping-bag.
Marshall was the cartographer and took the angles and bearings of all
the new
land; he also took the meridian altitudes and the compass variation as
we went
south. When a meridian altitude was taken, I generally had it checked
by each
member of the party, so that the mean could be taken. Marshall's work was about the most uncomfortable possible, for at the end of a day's march, and often at lunch-time, he would have to stand in the biting wind handling the screws of the theodolite. The map of the journey was prepared by Marshall, who also took most of the photographs. Wild attended to the repair of the sledges and equipment, and also assisted me in the geological observations and the collection of specimens. It was he who found the coal close to the Upper Glacier Depot. I kept the courses and distances, worked out observations and laid down our directions. We all kept diaries. I had two, one my observation book, and the other the narrative diary. |