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CHAPTER XXV ALL ABOARD: THE RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND An Oar Breaks: Disaster Averted: Last View of Winter Quarters: Supplies left at Cape Royds: New Coast-line: Anchored at Mouth of Lord's River, Stewart Island, March 22: Arrived Lyttelton, March 25, 1909 THE Nimrod,
with the members of the Northern
Party aboard, got back to
the winter quarters on February 11 and landed Mawson. The hut party at
this
period consisted of Murray, Priestley, Mawson, Day, and Roberts. No
news had
been heard of the Southern Party, and the depot party, commanded by
Joyce, was
still out. The ship lay under Glacier Tongue most of the time, making
occasional visits to Hut Point in case some sf the men should have
returned. On
February 20 it was found that the depot party had reached Hut Point,
and had
not seen th.e Southern Party. The temperature was becoming lower, arid
the
blizzards were more frequent. The
instructions left by me had
provided that if we had not returned by February 25, a party was to be
landed
at Hut Point, with a team of dogs, and on March 1 a search-party was to
go
south. In connection with landing party, Murray showed Captain Evans my
full
instructions that the party was to be landed on the 25th, and on this
being
understood the Nimrod left Cape
Royds
on the 21st with the party, whilst Murray remained in charge at Cape
Royds,
which was now cut off by sea from Hut Point. Murray was in no way
responsible
for the failure of that party to be landed, and this is a point I did
not make
clear in the first edition of my book; it is therefore due to Murray to
make
this explanation. All arrangements being completed, most of the members
of the
expedition then on board went ashore at Cape Royds to get the last of
their
property packed ready for departure. The ship was lying under Glacier
Tongue
when I arrived at Hut Point with Wild on February 28 and after I had
been
landed with the relief party in order to bring in Adams and Marshall,
it
proceeded to Cape Royds in order to take on board the remaining members
of the
shore-party and some specimens and stores. The Nimrod
anchored a short distance from the
shore, and two boats were
launched. The only spot convenient for embarkation near the ship's
anchorage
was at a low ice cliff in Backdoor Bay. Everything had to be lowered by
ropes
over the cliff into the boats. Some hours were spent in taking on board
the last
of the collections, the private property, and various stores. A stiff breeze
was blowing, making
work with the boats difficult, but by 6 A.M. on March 2 there remained
to be
taken on board only the men and dogs. The operation of lowering the
dogs one by
one into the boats was necessarily slow, and while it was in progress
the wind
freshened to blizzard force, and the sea began to run dangerously. The
waves
had deeply undercut the ice-cliff, leaving a projecting shelf. One
boat, in
charge of Davis, succeeded in reaching the ship, but a second boat,
commanded
by Harbord, was less fortunate. It was heavily loaded with twelve men
and a
number of dogs, and before it had proceeded many yards from the shore
an oar
broke. The Nimrod was forced to
slip
her moorings and steam out of the bay, as the storm had become so
severe that
she was in danger of dragging her anchors and going on the rocks. An
attempt to
float a buoy to the boat was not successful, and for some time Harbord
and the
men with him were in danger. They could not get out of the bay owing to
the
force of the sea, and the projecting shelf of ice threatened disaster
if they
approached the shore. The flying spray had encased the men in ice, and
their
hands were numb and hall-frozen. At the end of an hour they managed to
make
fast to a line stretched from an anchor a few yards from the cliff, the
men who
had remained on shore pulling this line taut. The position was still
dangerous,
but all the men and dogs were hauled up the slippery ice-face into
safety before
the boat sank. Hot drinks were soon ready in the hut, and the men dried
their
clothes as best they could before the fire. Nearly all the bedding had
been
sent on board, and the temperature was low, but they were thankful to
have
escaped with their lives. The weather was
bitter on the
following morning (March 3), and the Nimrod,
which had been sheltering under Glacier Tongue, came back to Cape
Royds. A
heavy sea was still running, but a new landing-place was selected in
the
shelter of the cape, and all the men and dogs were got aboard. The ship
went
back to the Glacier Tongue anchorage to wait for the relief party. READY TO START HOME About ten
o'clock that night
Mackintosh was walking the deck engaged in conversation with some other
members
of the expedition. Suddenly he became excited and said, " I feel that
Shackleton has arrived at Hut Point." He was very anxious that the ship
should go up to the Point, but nobody gave much attention to him. Then
Dunlop
advised him to go up to the crow's-nest if he was sure about it, and
look for a
signal. Mackintosh went aloft, and immediately saw our flare at Hut
Point. The
ship at once left for Hut Point, reaching it at midnight, and by 2 A.M.
on
March 4 the entire expedition was safe on board. There was now
no time to be lost if
we were to attempt to complete our work. The season was far advanced,
and the
condition of the ice was a matter for anxiety, but I was most anxious
to
undertake exploration with the ship to the westward, towards Adelie
Land, with
the idea of mapping the coast-line in that direction. As soon as all
the
members of the expedition were on board the Nimrod,
therefore, I gave orders to steam north, and in a very short time we
were under
way. It was evident that the sea in our neighbourhood would be frozen
over
before many hours had passed, and although I had foreseen the
possibility of
having to spend a second winter in the Antarctic when making my
arrangements,
we were all very much disinclined to face the long wait if it could be
avoided.
I wished first to round Cape Armitage and pick up the geological
specimens and
gear that had been left at Pram Point, but there was heavy ice coining
out from
the south, and this meant imminent risk of the ship being caught and
perhaps
"nipped." I decided to go into shelter under Glacier Tongue in the
little inlet on the north side for a few hours, in the hope that the
southern
wind, that was bringing out the ice, would cease and that we would then
be able
to return and secure the specimens and gear. This was about two o'clock
on the
morning of March 4, and we members of the Southern Party turned in for
a
much-needed rest. At eight
o'clock on the morning of
the 4th we again went down the sound. Young ice was forming over the
sea, which
was now calm, the wind having entirely dropped, and it was evident that
we must
be very quick if we were to escape that year. We brought the Nimrod right alongside the pressure ice
at
Pram Point, and I pointed out the little depot on the hillside.
Mackintosh at
once went off with a party of men to bring the gear and specimens down,
while
another party went out to the seal rookery to see if they could find a
peculiar
seal that we had noticed on our way to the hut on the previous night.
The seal
was either a new species or the female of the Ross seal. It was a small
animal,
about four feet six inches long, with a broad white band from its
throat right
down to its tail on the underside. If we had been equipped with knives
on the
previous night we would have despatched it, but we had no knives and
were,
moreover, very tired, and we therefore left it. The search for the seal
proved
fruitless, and as the sea was freezing over behind us I ordered all the
men on
board directly the stuff from the depot had been got on to the deck,
and the Nimrod once more steamed
north. The
breeze soon began to freshen, and it was blowing hard from the south
when we
passed the winter quarters at Cape Royds. We all turned out to give
three
cheers and to take a last look at the place where we had spent so many
happy
days. The hut was not exactly a palatial residence, and during our
period of
residence in it we had suffered many discomforts, not to say hardships,
but, on
the other hand, it had been our home for a year that would always live
in our
memories. We had been a very happy little party within its walls, and
often
when we were far away from even its measure of civilisation it had been
the
Mecca of all our hopes and dreams. We watched the little hut fade away
in the
distance with feelings almost of sadness, and there were few men aboard
who did
not cherish a hope that some day they would once more live strenuous
days under
the shadow of mighty Erebus. I left at the
winter quarters on
Cape Royds a supply of stores sufficient to last fifteen men for one
year. The
vicissitudes of life in the Antarctic are such that such a supply might
prove
of the greatest value to some future expedition. The hut was locked up
and the
key hung up outside where it would be easily found, and we readjusted
the
lashing of the hut so that it might be able to withstand the attacks of
the
blizzards during the years to come. Inside the hut I left a letter
stating what
had been accomplished by the expedition, and giving some other
information that
might be useful to a future party of explorers. The stores left in the
hut
included oil, flour, jams, dried vegetables, biscuits, pemmican,
plasmon,
matches, and various tinned meats, as well as tea, cocoa, and necessary
articles of equipment. If any party has to make use of our hut in the
future,
it will find there everything required to sustain life. The wind was
still freshening as we
went north under steam and sail on March 4, and it was fortunate for us
that
this was so, for the ice that had formed on the sea water in the sound
was
thickening rapidly, assisted by the old pack, of which a large amount
lay
across our course. I was anxious to pick up a depot of geological
specimens on
Depot Island, left there by the Northern Party, and with this end in
view the Nimrod was taken on a more
westerly
course than would otherwise have been the case. The wind, however, was
freshening to a gale, and we were passing through streams of ice, which
seemed
to thicken as we neared the shore. I decided that it would be too risky
to send
a party off for the specimens, as there was no proper lee to this small
island,
and the consequences of even a short delay might be serious. I
therefore gave
instructions that the courso should be altered to due north. The
following wind
helped us, and on the morning of March 6 we were off Cape Adare. I
wanted to
push between the Balleny Islands and the mainland, and make an attempt
to
follow the coast-line from Cape North westward, so as to link it up
with Adelie
Land. No ship had ever succeeded in penetrating to the westward of Cape
North,
heavy pack having been encountered on the occasion of each attempt. The
Discovery had passed through
the Balleny
Islands and sailed over part of the so-called Wilkes Land of the maps,
but the
question of the existence of this land in any other position had been
left
open. We steamed
along the pack-ice, which
was beginning to thicken, and although we did not manage to do all that
I had
hoped, we had the satisfaction of pushing our little vessel along that
coast to
longitude 166° 14' East, latitude 69° 47' South, a point further west
than had
been reached by any previous expedition. On the morning of March 8 we
saw,
beyond Cape North, a new coast-line extending first to the southwards
and then
to the west for a distance of over forty-five miles. We took angles and
bearings, and Marston sketched the main outlines. We were too far away
to take
any photographs that would have been of value, but the sketches show
very
clearly the type of the land. Professor David was of opinion that it
was the northern
edge of the polar plateau. The coast seemed to consist of cliffs, with
a few
bays in the distance. We would all have been glad of an opportunity to
explore
the coast thoroughly, but that was out of the question; the ice was
getting
thicker all the time, and it was becoming imperative that we should
escape to
clear water without further delay. There was no chance of getting
farther west
at that point, and as the new ice was forming between the old pack of
the
previous year and the land, we were in serious danger of being frozen
in for
the winter at a place where we could not have done any geological work
of
importance. We therefore moved north along the edge of the pack, making
as much
westing as possible, in the direction of the Balleny Islands. I still
hoped
that it might be possible to skirt them and find Wilkes Land. It was
awkward
work, and at times the ship could hardly move at all. Finally, about
midnight on March 9,
I saw that we must go north, and the course was set in that direction.
We were
almost too late, for the ice was closing in and before long we were
held up,
the ship being unable to move at all. The situation looked black, but
we
discovered a lane through which progress could be made, and in the
afternoon of
the 10th we were in fairly open water, passing through occasional lines
of
pack. Our troubles were over, for we had a good voyage up to New
Zealand, and
on March 22 dropped anchor at the mouth of Lord's river, on the south
side of
Stewart Island. I did not go to a port because I wished to get the news
of the
expedition's work through to London before we faced the energetic
newspaper
men. That was a
wonderful day to all of
us. For over a year we had seen nothing but rocks, ice, snow, and sea.
There
had been no colour and no softness in the scenery of the Antarctic; no
green
growth had gladdened our eyes, no musical notes of birds had come to
our ears.
We had had our work, but we had been cut off from most of the lesser
things
that go to make life worth while. No person who has not spent a period
of his
life in those "stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole"
will understand fully what trees_ and flowers, sun-flecked turf and
running
streams mean to the soul of a man. We landed on the stretch of beach
that
separated the sea from the luxuriant growth of the forest, and
scampered about
like children in the sheer joy of being alive. I did not wish to
despatch my
cablegrams from Half Moon Bay until an hour previously arranged, and in
the
meantime we revelled in the warm sand on the beach, bathed in the sea,
and
climbed amongst the trees. We lit a fire and made tea on the beach, and
while
we were having our meal the wekas, the remarkable flightless birds
found only
in New Zealand, came out from the bush for their share of the good
things.
These quaint birds, with their long bills, brown plumage and quick,
inquisitive
eyes, have no fear of men, and their friendliness seemed to us like a
welcome
from that sunny land that had always treated us with such open-hearted
kindliness. The clear, musical notes of other birds came to us from the
trees,
and we felt that we needed only good news from home to make our
happiness and
contentment absolutely complete. One of the scientific men found a cave
showing
signs of native occupation in some period of the past, and was
fortunate enough
to discover a stone adze made of the rare pounamu, or greenstone. Early next
morning we hove up the
anchor, and at 10 A.M. we entered Half Moon Bay. I went ashore to
despatch my
cablegrams, and it was strange to see new faces on the wharf after
fifteen
months during which we had met no one outside the oircle of our own
little
party. There were girls on the wharf, too, and every one was glad to
see us in
the hearty New Zealand way. I despatched my cablegrams from the little
office,
and then went on board again and ordered the course to be set for
Lyttelton,
the port from which we had sailed on the first day of the previous
year. We
arrived there on March 25 late in the afternoon. The people of
New Zealand would have
welcomed us, I think, whatever had been the result of our efforts, for
their
keen interest in Antarctic exploration has never faltered since the
early days
of the Discovery expedition, and
their attitude towards us was always that of warm personal friendship.
But the
news of the measure of success we had achieved had been published in
London and
flashed back to the southern countries, and we were met out in the
harbour and
on the wharves by oheering crowds. Enthusiastic friends boarded the Nimrod almost as soon as she entered the
heads, and when our little vessel came alongside the quay, the crowd on
deck
became so great that movement was almost impossible. Then I was handed
great
bundles of letters and cablegrams. The loved ones at home were well,
the world was
pleased with our work, and it seemed as though nothing but happiness
could ever
enter life again. THE SPECIAL SURCHARGED EXPEDITIOR STAMP, WITH POSTMARK
A VIEW OF THE HUT IN SUMMER. THE METEOROLOGICAL STATION CAN BE SEEN ON THE EXTREME RIGHT |