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AN INLAND VOYAGE

BY
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON

LONDON
CHATTO & WINDUS
1919

PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION

To equip so small a book with a preface is, I am half afraid, to sin against proportion. But a preface is more than an author can resist, for it is the reward of his labours. When the foundation stone is laid, the architect appears with his plans, and struts for an hour before the public eye. So with the writer in his preface: he may have never a word to say, but he must show himself for a moment in the portico, hat in hand, and with an urbane demeanour.

It is best, in such circumstances, to represent a delicate shade of manner between humility and superiority: as if the book had been written by some one else, and you had merely run over it and inserted what was good. But for my part I have not yet learned the trick to that perfection; I am not yet able to dissemble the warmth of my sentiments towards a reader; and if I meet him on the threshold, it is to invite him in with country cordiality.

To say truth, I had no sooner finished reading this little book in proof, than I was seized upon by a distressing apprehension. It occurred to me that I might not only be the first to read these pages, but the last as well; that I might have pioneered this very smiling tract of country all in vain, and find not a soul to follow in my steps. The more I thought, the more I disliked the notion; until the distaste grew into a sort of panic terror, and I rushed into this Preface, which is no more than an advertisement for readers.

What am I to say for my book? Caleb and Joshua brought back from Palestine a formidable bunch of grapes; alas! my book produces naught so nourishing and for the matter of that, we live in an age when people prefer a definition to any quantity of fruit.

I wonder, would a negative be found enticing? for, from the negative point of view, I flatter myself this volume has a certain stamp. Although it runs to considerably upwards of two hundred pages, it contains not a single reference to the imbecility of God's universe, nor so much as a single hint that I could have made a better one myself. – I really do not know where my head can have been. I seem to have forgotten all that makes it glorious to be man. – 'Tis an omission that renders the book philosophically unimportant; but I am in hopes the eccentricity may please in frivolous circles.

To the friend who accompanied me, I owe many thanks already, indeed I wish I owed him nothing else; but at this moment I feel towards him an almost exaggerated tenderness. He, at least, will become my reader: – if it were only to follow his own travels alongside of mine.

R. L. S.

TO SIR WALTER GRINDLAY SIMPSON, BART.

MY DEAR CIGARETTE,

It was enough that you should have shared as liberally in the rains and portages of our voyage; that you should have had so hard a paddle to recover the derelict Arethusa on the flooded Oise; and that you should thenceforth have piloted a mere wreck of mankind to Origny Sainte-Benoite and a supper so eagerly desired. It was perhaps more than enough, as you once somewhat piteously complained, that I should have set down all the strong language to you, and kept the appropriate reflections for myself. I could not in decency expose you to share the disgrace of another and more public shipwreck. But now that this voyage of ours is going into a cheap edition, that peril, we shall hope, is at an end, and I may put your name on the burgee.

But I cannot pause till I have lamented the fate of our two ships. That, sir, was not a fortunate day when we projected the possession of a canal barge; it was not a fortunate day when we shared our daydream with the most hopeful of day-dreamers. For a while, indeed, the world looked smilingly. The barge was procured and christened, and as the Eleven Thousand Virgins o/ Cologne, lay for some months, the admired of all admirers, in a pleasant river and under the walls of an ancient town. M. Mattras, the accomplished carpenter of Motet, had made her a centre of emulous labour; and you will not have forgotten the amount of sweet champagne consumed in the inn at the bridge end, to give zeal to the workmen and speed to the work. On the financial aspect, I would not willingly dwell. The Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne rotted in the stream where she was beautified. She felt not the impulse of the breeze; she was never harnessed to the patient track-horse. And when at length she was sold, by the indignant carpenter of Moret, there were sold along with her the Arethusa and the Cigarette, she of cedar, she, as we knew so keenly on a portage, of solid-hearted English oak. Now these historic vessels fly the tri-color and are known by new and alien names.

R.L.S.

CONTENTS
ANTWERP TO BOOM
ON THE WILLEBROEK CANAL
THE ROYAL SPORT NAUTIQUE
AT MAUBEUGE
ON THE SAMBRE CANALISED : TO QUARTES

PONT-SUR-SAMBRE:
WE ARE PEDLARS
THE TRAVELLING MERCHANT
ON THE SAMBRE CANALISED: TO LANDRECIES
AT LANDRECIES
SAMBRE AND OISE CANAL: CANAL BOATS
THE OISE IN FLOOD

ORIGNY SAINTE BENOÎTE:
A BY-DAY
THE COMPANY AT TABLE
DOWN THE OISE: TO MOY
LA FÉRE OF CURSED MEMORY
DOWN THE OISE: THROUGH THE GOLDEN
    VALLEY
NOYON CATHEDRAL
DOWN THE OISE: TO COMPIEGNE
AT COMPIÉGNE
CHANGED TIMES
DOWN THE OISE: CHURCH INTERIORS
PRÉCY AND THE MARIONETTES
BACK TO THE WORLD