CHAPTER IV.
THE
EXPLORER'S RETURN TO CIVILIZATION.
"I
planted the stars and stripes in the ice field, and my heart grew
warm when I saw it wave in the wind."
These
were Dr. Cook's words when, on September 4, he arrived at Copenhagen,
Denmark, to receive the greeting of a vast crowd and to be
congratulated by the king of that nation.
"Let
the skeptics who disbelieve my story go to the north pole. There they
will find a small brass tube which I buried under the flag."
This
was what he said when he learned that the truth of his statements had
been questioned. A storm of discussion, of sneers, and of disbelief
was raging in every nation. Scientists were wagging their heads.
People were divided into camps. And in the Danish capital the
sun-browned hero of the north calmly received callers and told them
further incidents of his trip.
"On
April 21," he said, "we looked for the sun. As soon as we
got it I made several observations. Great joy came over us. We were
only sixteen miles from the desired spot. I said to myself, 'Bully
for Frederick.' Then we went on.
"The
last stretch was the easiest I ever made in my life, although I had
still to make two observations and the ice was broken. But my spirits
were high and I shouted like a boy. The Eskimos looked at one another
surprised at my gaiety. They did not share my joy.
"I
felt that I ought to be there. I made my last observation and found
that I was standing on the pole.
"There
is nothing to see there but ice; no water, only ice. There were more
holes there than at the eighty-seventh degree, which shows there is
more movement and drift there; but this and other observations I made
afterwards, when I got more settled. I stopped two days at the pole,
and I assure you, it wasn't easy to say good-by to the spot.
LAUGHS
AT THE SCOFFERS.
"As
I was sitting at the pole I could not help smiling at the people who
on my return would call the whole expedition a humbug. I was sure the
people would say that I had bought my two witnesses and that my
notebook with my daily observations had been manufactured on board
this ship.
"The
only thing I can put up against this is what the York Eskimos have
told Knud Rasmussen. That tube which I buried under the flag contains
a short statement about my trip. I couldn't leave my visiting card,
because I didn't happen to have one with me.
"Perhaps
I should have staid there longer had it not begun to freeze us in our
idleness. The Eskimos were uneasy and the dogs howled fearfully. On
April 23, therefore, I again turned my nose southward, which was much
easier, as you cannot turn your nose in any other direction when you
stand at the pole."
Describing
the return journey, Dr. Cook said:
"Fortune
now smiled. We made twenty miles a day until we reached the ominous
eighty-seventh degree. Then I felt the ice moving eastward, carrying
us with it. A terrible fog swept around us and kept us there for
three weeks. We got no farther than the eighty-fourth degree. Then
began a heavy walk towards Heibergsland and another three weeks of
fog. When that cleared I saw we had drifted southwest of Ringnesland,
where we found open water and tower high screw ice, which stopped our
way eastward.
"We
now began to suffer hunger. Our provisions were becoming exhausted
and we were unable to find depots. We entered Ringnesland and on June
20 found the first animals on our return — bear and seal. We shot a
bear.
"And
now our goal was the whalers at Lancaster Sound. We followed the
drift ice to the south. Eighty miles a day, but were stopped by pack
ice in Wellington Channel, which was impassable either by boat or
sledge. Here was lots of game, but we did not dare shoot it. We had
taken only a hundred bullets to the pole and now only fifteen were
left. We went into Jones Sound after walrus and found open calm
water. We met polar wolves, with which some of our dogs made friends
and ran away.
"Now
we spent day and night in an open boat ten miles from shore. This
lasted for two months, while storms often raged over our head. At
last we got ashore again, but we had no fuel and were obliged to eat
birds raw. One day we found fuel, and what a feast we had. But we
suffered much hunger during this period. One night a bear came and
stole our food. We had many fights with musk oxen, which attacked us.
Our best weapon against them was the lasso.
"Two
or three days we had nothing to eat. Then, in a crevice of the ice,
we caught sight of several walruses. I had only a few cartridges
left, I crept along the ice on my stomach, approaching the animals
slowly, so as not to scare them. I expended all my cartridges and as
a result secured two of the walruses. Our lives were saved."
It
was after describing these hardships that the haggard traveler, his
hair matted and long and his eyes hollow with suffering, cried, in a
burst of joy at beholding the faces of white men once more:
"I
am the happiest man alive. Tell the whole world I thank God I am
back."
"Rumors
about our insufficient equipment were all false," said he. "No
expense had been spared to provide an expedition for every
contingency. To show you we prepared for every emergency, let me
explain but one phase of our equipment. When the yacht was loaded all
were promised a delightful cruise, with study and recreation.
"When
we arrived at Smith's Sound, the limits of navigation and the limits
of man's habitation, it was found that many of the best families had
gathered at Anvolok for the winter bear hunt. This summer chase had
been very successful. Great catches of meat had been gathered; more
than one hundred dogs voiced the Eskimo prosperity. With abundant
supplies taken aboard there, we had the nucleus for a polar
expedition.
"Tins
were secured and everything was prepared against humidity. Boxes,
which later made excellent building material, were taken along. With
these boxes we built a house and at the end of the first day we slept
under our own roof comfortably sheltered from the storm.
"Now
I cannot give you but a general outline of our journey. We had many
days and weeks of suffering. The outcome of the venture seems to be
sufficient reward for the expended energy. The art of Arctic sledging
has been advanced; a new highway with an interesting strip of
animated nature has been examined. Big game haunts have been located
which will extend the Eskimo horizon and delight the sportsman.
"The
boreal center has been pierced, new land has been discovered, and if
we allow a horizon about fifteen miles to each side of our course a
triangle of about thirty thousand square miles has been cut out of
the Arctic blank.
In
relating further incidents of his expedition, when there remained but
two faithful Eskimos as an escort as he plunged over the vast extent
of polar seas, Dr. Cook gave another version of the final dash. On
approaching the pole, he said, the icy plain took on animated motion,
as if rotating on an invisible pivot.
"A
great fissure then opened up behind," he added, "and it
seemed as if we were isolated from the world. My two Eskimos threw
themselves at my feet and, bursting into tears, refused to continue
either one way or another, so paralyzed with fear were they.
Nevertheless, I calmed them and we resumed our journey.
"You
ask my impression on reaching the pole. Let me confess I was
disappointed. Man is a child, dreaming of prodigies. I had reached
the pole and now at a moment when I should have been thrilled with
pride and joy, I was invaded with a sudden fear of the dangers and
sufferings of the return."
The
most northerly land he saw was between 84 and 86 degrees. There were
two bodies of land at this point east of his route. One was about
1,000 feet high. He could not say whether they were islands or not,
as he was not equipped to make a detour to explore them.
Dr.
Cook said he was strongly of the opinion that no white man could
reach the pole unless he was able to wear the same clothes, eat the
same food and live in all ways just as do the Eskimos. He said he
owed his success largely to choice of a route where game was more
plentiful on the routes formerly attempted, and to the fact that he
traveled in winter.
Although
the lowest temperature experienced was 83 degrees below zero, the
explorer said he did not feel the cold nearly so much then as in
higher temperatures when the wind was blowing.
For
a long time the explorer lived on musk oxen; he wore the fur of these
animals, ate their meat and used their fat to burn in lamps.
By
way of contrast with Dr. Cook's description of polar scenes is given
this word picture by one of his predecessors:
"The
air was warm, almost as a summer's night at home, and yet there were
the icebergs and the bleak mountains, with which the fancy, in this
land of green hills and waving forests, can associate nothing but
cold repulsiveness. The sky was bright and soft, and strangely
inspiring as the skies of Italy. The bergs had wholly lost their
chilly aspect, and glittering in the blaze of the brilliant heavens,
seemed in the distance like masses of burnished metal or solid flame.
Nearer at hand, they were huge blocks of Parian marble, inlaid with
mammoth gems of pearl and opal. One in particular exhibited the
perfection of the grand. Its form was not unlike that of the
Colosseum, and it lay so far away that half its height was buried
beneath the line of the blood-red waters. The sun, slowly rolling
along the horizon, passed behind it, and it seemed as if the old
Roman ruin had suddenly taken fire and were in flames.
For
further comparison, take this passage, from Capt. McClure's account
of his discovery of the northwest passage in 1850:
"I
cannot describe my feelings. Can it be possible that this water
communicates with Barrow's Strait, and shall prove to be the
long-sought northwest passage? Can it be that so humble a creature as
I am will be permitted to perform what has baffled the talented and
wise for hundreds of years? But all praise be ascribed unto Him who
hath conducted us so far in safety. His ways are not our ways: nor
the means that He uses to accomplish His ends within our
comprehension. The wisdom of the world is foolishness with Him."
|