A
LADY'S WRITING DESK
Desk
Complete
This desk of
mission
style is a little more complicated than some of the other pieces of
mission furniture that have been described, but anyone who has a fair
knowledge of tools will not have much trouble in constructing it in
the home workshop if the plans are carefully followed. Quarter-sawed
oak is the best wood to use, as it is easy to work and looks best
when finished. Order the stock from the mill ready cut to length,
squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock needed:
2 front posts, 2 by 2 by
30 in.
2 back posts, 2 by
2 by
50 in.
1 bottom rail, 3/4
by 3
by 31 in.
2 end rails, 3/4 by
3 by
18 in.
1 stretcher, 3/4 by
8 by
331/2 in.
2 end slats, 3/8 by
8 by
15 in.
1 back slat, 3/8 by
8 by
15 1/2 in.
2 back slats, 3/8
by 3 by
15 1/2 in.
1 front drawer
rail, 3/4
by 1 1/4 by 31 1/4 in.
2 side drawer
rails, 3/4
by 3 by 18 1/4 in.
1 drawer front, 3/4
by 6
by 30 in.
1 desk lid, 3/4 by
18 by
31 1/4 in.
1 desk board, 3/4
by 19
1/4 by 31 1/4 in.
2 end boards, 3/4
by 19
by 21 1/4 in.
1 top board, 3/4 by
10 by
34 in.
1 top back board,
3/4 by
5 by 31 1/4 in.
1 back board, 3/4
by 30
by 22 in.
2 drawer sides, 1/2
by 6
by 19 1/2 in., S. W.
1 drawer end, 1/2
by 6 by
29 in. S. W.
1 drawer bottom,
1/2 by
18 by N in., S. W.
2 pieces for pigeon
holes, 3/8 by 7 by 23 in., S. W.
8 pieces for pigeon
holes, 3/8 by 4 by 6 3/4 in., S. W.
Start with the
back
posts, being sure they are square and of the right length; place them
side by side and lay out the mortises for the lower rails, the desk
rails and the top back boards, as shown in the accompanying detail
drawing. Lay out the front posts in the same manner. Cut the tenons
on the ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the posts.
Also cut
mortises in the
rails for the back and end slats. The end rails have a mortise in
them for the tenons on the ends of the foot boards. Clamp the ends of
the desk together, with the end rails in place; then fit the side
boards. Bore holes through the posts into the side boards for dowels
as shown. After the dowels are in place the holes can be plugged.
Cut and fit the
top back
board, the bottom rail, the back board and the stretcher. Cut the top
and desk boards at the back corners to clear the posts.
The top board is
to be
fastened to the side boards with blind screws. The back board is
-fastened to the posts with dowels as shown.
When all the
parts fit
square and tight they can be glued together. The ends of the desk
should be glued up first and left to dry, then the other parts put in
place and glued. When clamping the parts together see that they fit
perfectly square and tight.
While the glue
is drying
the drawer can be made. The front board is made of oak, but the other
parts may be made of some soft wood. The side pieces are mortised and
glued to the front board. The end and bottom boards can be nailed
together.
Details
of Writing Desk
(click for larger image)
The drop lid of
the desk
is made as shown. Two or more boards may have to be glued together
for the lid, the desk bottom and the back board. The lid is fastened
to the desk board with two hinges, and it should be so arranged that
when closed it will be even with the sides. Brackets or chains are
fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position when it is
open. Small blocks of wood fastened to the inner edge of the side
boards will prevent it from closing too far. A lock, if desired, can
be purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place. Suitable
handles for the drawer should also be provided.
When the desk is
complete
go over it with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots. Scrape all
glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there
is any glue.
The pigeonholes
are made
from 3/8 in. stock. They may be tacked in place after the desk is
finished.
The finish can
be any one
of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. If
the desk is well made and finished, it will have a very neat and
attractive appearance.
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