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THE DAY BEFORE
SPRING AND THE NEXT —
Lizzette Woodford Reese. “Every clod feels a
stir of might, Such days must cause
tremulous heartbeats beneath the sodden earth,’ for
very certain it is that if this strange, disturbing something, which
has crept
into the world over night, pierces my fur jacket and stirs my
hibernating
emotions, so much more surely does it reach and stir those sleeping
green things
so divinely sensitive to this “elemental tenderness.” The morrow may
find
our throbbing senses quieted by a soft cold hand of snow, icicles may
hang
fiercely where yesterday sounded the thrilling drip, and winds may
flourish
their banners of dun-coloured cloud; but within that sunny rift,
between two
storms, the baby Spring was born and straightway we and the waiting
world
capitulate and owe allegiance to none other. Down to the garden one
goes, eager
for miracles, and, sure enough, a fat robin struts the walk, a
song-sparrow
tilts joyously on the Sweet Brier and splits his little spring-tuned
throat —
and lo! in a sheltered corner, a miracle indeed, for
what
yesterday was
snow, to-day is tender flowers, pure as the snow, but boasting a tiny
spot of
green upon each cold white inner petal, mute assurance of the
Snowdrop’s
fealty to the new order, else should we not mistake her for the child
of gray
old winter? Often above the Snowdrops the Naked Jasmine has lighted a
pale
candle or two, and if our eyes are sharp, doubtless we shall find some
fat
little bundles of Crocus spears heaved through the winter blanket. More
than
likely the Crown Imperials, those stout but easily demoralized
monarchs, have
shot a reckless three inches into the air, and would be utterly and
everlastingly nipped in the bud did we not watch the weather signs and
bundle
them up at the slightest hint of a “change.” When the baby Spring
is old enough to sit up and keep an eye upon her
domain, the time has come to awaken the flowers, and I always do it
myself, for
I would not miss for anything their first sleepy greetings and the
sight of
their tumbled heads as we turn back the brown blanket and know that
they are
stretching their cramped limbs and drawing long, ecstatic breaths of
the
wonderful, winter-sweetened air. Here we have not yet
acquired Christmas Roses or Winter Aconites, so the
Snowdrop is the first corner, though often accompanied by Crocus Imperati in a south border and
closely followed by the
brilliant flowers of Iris reticulata. In
a north border, where the sun reaches them for part of the day only,
the
Snowdrops have a long period of bloom, and are often on hand to gleam
shyly with
the corpulent Dutch Crocuses and early Daffodils. But in the more
sheltered
situations they come so early as to have the field almost to
themselves. They
are charming grown beneath a ground cover of English Ivy or in woodland
places
where they pierce and shine above a carpet of brown leaves, and are
most
effective when planted in large numbers. They will do well almost
anywhere, but
in a rather moist, loamy soil and partial shade they increase more
rapidly than
in dry, sunny places. Here we have only two kinds: Galanthus
nivalis, the
kind ordinarily planted, and the great G. Elwesii,
giant of the family and much taller and more
substantial. Very similar to
Galanthus is Leucojum
vernum, the Spring Snowflake, which blooms nearly as early
and sheds a fine
fragrance from its drooping green-tipped flowers. It grows from eight
to ten
inches tall and loves a sandy loam. The first Crocus to
burst bubble-like from the earth behind our garden
walls is C. Imperati, a wild
species
of great charm, wearing without the tenderest buff colour, lightly
feathered
with rosy lavender, while within is pure lavender against which the
orange
stigmata show hotly. They grow in a south corner beneath some bushes
and are
treasured, for they bloom always when I am most impatient for the
spring and
stay my eagerness as the Snowdrops never do. Despite their frail
appearance,
they will stand the wind and rains of March triumphantly and last in
beauty for
a longtime. Next to bloom here is C.
Susianus, the Cloth-of-gold Crocus, in a gold-lined brown
jacket. This is a
much less rare and elegant person than Imperati, but is so instinct
with warmth
and life that I adore its burning trails along two borders. Another
early-flowering Crocus is the Scotch, C.
Biflorus, gleaming white lined with pale
purple. Then come the great
splashes of colour which proclaim the Dutch Crocuses--valiant purple
and orange,
clean lavender, gleaming white, and the pretty striped sorts like Madam
Mina.
There are many fine sorts, but President Lincoln, a rich purple of fine
vase-like
form, is my favourite. Crocuses love a nice sandy loam and are planted
in
September and October about three inches deep. They may be left to
themselves
until they show, by falling off in their bloom, that they are
overcrowded, when
they may be dug up and given more room. Three dainty
blue-flowered bulbs belong to the early spring: Chionodoxa,
Muscari, and Scilla. The Chionodoxas bloom first with me — C. Luciliae
and sardensis —
the
first, bright sky blue with a clear white centre; the second, of that
rare
Gentian blue so seldom seen in flowers. Both are but a few inches high,
and are
pretty planted in spreading patches about the drifts of snowy Arabis in
bloom at
the same time. The common Grape Hyacinth, Muscari
botryoides, with its pretty beaded blue flower spikes, is
well known to most
of us, and also the refined white variety. But there are others too
lovely not
to be included in every garden. Of those, Heavenly Blue, well named, is
the
best, but azureum, blooming very early, is most attractive, and
plumosum, the
Feathered Hyacinth, more mauve than blue. Muscari
moschatum, also leaning to lavender, is large and fragrant
of musk, and
requires a warm, dry border. The Muscaris like a rich, well-drained
soil and
plenty of grit, and should be planted three inches deep in early
autumn. They do
well either in the grass or in the beds and borders. The contemplation of
Scillas, Squills, or Bluebells is pleasant indeed,
for they are among the loveliest of spring flowers. They like a little
shade and
so for woody places are ideal. In this garden we grow them beneath the
flowering
trees and shrubs, but have not nearly enough. There is S.
sibirica, with spikes of bright blue flowers three inches
high, and S.
bifolia, blooming a little earlier, with dainty heads of
azure flowers; Scilla
nutans, the English Bluebell, growing fourteen inches high
with
arching stems of drooping bells, and S.
hispanica (syn. campanulata), almost
the loveliest of all, with erect spikes fifteen
inches tall carrying bells of various colours — white, lilac, and rose,
but
none so satisfying as the blue. The bulbs of Scillas should be planted
five or
six inches deep, and they will thrive under evergreen trees where few
other
plants will grow. Before April has got
very far along her fairy way the great Crown
Imperials are in gorgeous bloom. This is a plant of old times but is so
truly
magnificent and vibrant in its form and colouring that it should never
have gone
out of fashion. Parkinson calls it sonorously, Corona Imperialis, and
considered
it a Lily. Thus he writes: “The Crowne Imperiall for his stately
beautifulness, deservith the first place in this our Garden of Delight,
to be
here entreated before all other Lillies.” His quaint and appreciative
description of this flower that he so greatly admired is too long to
give in
full, and my own words are poor and cold in comparison, though I share
his
admiration. The great nose appears above ground at the very first hint
of
reassuring weather and attains, in an incredibly short time, a height
of two and
one-half to three feet. At the top is a triumphant tuft of greenery,
and just
below hangs the circular crown of bells — sometimes two crowns — this
kind
called Crown upon Crown; sometimes orange, again yellow or scarlet, but
always
imperial and striking. It is Turkish and looks its nationality. One
fault it
has, but I, with Parkinson, am so under its spell that we make light of
it. He
says: “The whole plant and every part thereof, as well rootes, as
leaves and
flowers, does smell somewhat strong as it were the savour of a Foxe, so
that if
any one does but come near it, he cannot but smell it, which yet is not
unwholesome.” I am not familiar with the “savour of a Foxe,” but this
splendid plant has to my nose exactly the “savour” of a skunk-cabbage,
and
seems to permeate the world. It is at its worst, I have observed, when
it first
appears above ground, as if it were just “letting it-self go” after the
long
winter confinement; but, as Parkinson says, it is not “unwholesome.”
Ruskin
speaks of the perfume of a flower as its soul, and it would seem a
worthy task
for some patient missionary hybridist to take in hand the terrible soul
of Fritillaria imperialis. A rich soil is
generally recommended for Crown Imperials, and I have found
that the bulbs here planted in a south border, where the soil is warm
and dry,
are in the best condition and have increased. Those in a north border,
where the
soil is heavy, disappeared after two years. The bulb should be planted
in
September, the tops five inches below the ground and the bulb laid upon
its side
to prevent moisture lodging between the scales. It will require a year
to become
established before it does anything very striking in the way of a
display. If at
any time the bulbs must be moved, the best time is just after the
leaves have
withered. Fritillaries are
rather numerous, but I am not acquainted with many. Just
once have I been able to flower the brilliant red F.
recurva, though I have planted it several times under
flattering
conditions. The Snakes-head Fritillary, Guineahen flower, or Checker
Lily, as
Parkinson calls it, Fritillaria Meleagris,
with its lovely white variety, alba,
may and should be had by every one. In moist, partially
shaded
places, the curving bell-hung stalk grows a foot high, but in the dryer
soil of
the garden it is not so tall. There are new varieties, Cassandra,
Orion, and
Triton, all described as most attractive; the “Checkers” on their gray
or
silvery-white ground. are more or less distinct. The bulbs should be
planted six
inches deep with a covering of sharp sand. When one comes to
Daffodils, it is difficult to write with moderation or
even to think connectedly — one wants to go into ecstasies and to run,
in
spirit, from one sunshiny group to another inhaling the ineffable
wet-earth-and-sun perfume which is their birthright, quite forgetting
to tell of
the best varieties and how to grow them. When down in the garden sweet
Daffodil
“unties her yellow bonnet,” it is a “time o’ dreams” —
Cherry Blossoms cast their pale shadow; Peach trees
fling
pink spray
against the garden wall; Japanese Quince makes a hot splash against the
cold
stone. Early Tulips proudly lead one up and down the garden paths
displaying
here a snowy drift of Arabis, there a purple trail of Aubrietia, and
here again
a mound of green-gold Alyssum — and disappear beneath the scented
skirts of
the flowering Currant or march in prim, upstanding array in the shadow
of a
scarlet-budded Crabapple. A thousand delights are spread before us, but
wonder
of wonders is that nodding horde of Daffodils, all up and down the
borders,
under the trees, beside the paths, shining with the sunshine, gleaming
with the
gentle rain, restless with the attentive wind. It was Mahamet who said
more than
a thousand years ago, “He that hath two cakes of bread, let him sell
one of
them and buy Narcissus, for bread is food for the body but Narcissus is
food for
the soul.” And verily it is true — food for the soul and delight for
the
eyes, these gleaming things lying like patches of light among the
fallen Cherry
Blossoms, glorifying the brown earth, and lifting the most sodden into
a rarer
atmosphere. Daffodil time is the very height of spring, the epitome of
springing
youth and hope.
The classification
of the Narcissus family is rather confusing to me,
there are so many divisions and subdivisions, but it is not necessary
to be very
well grounded in these distinctions to know and grow these flowers.
There are
long trumpets and short trumpets, large cups, small cups, and flat
cups,
double-flowered, single-flowered, and cluster-flowered, and each of
these
blossoms forth into such an astonishing company, all lovely, that one
is
bewitched as well as bewildered. My experience of growing Daffodils is
as yet
confined to the garden — I have not tasted the joy of planting them by
the
thousand in orchards and meadows. Most of those we have tried have
flourished
and increased, a few have languished; and in the case of those wee
things,
Angles Tears, Queen of Spain, Hoop-petticoat, minimus and nanus — fit
only for
the sequestered safety of rockwork, but which, for the life of me, I
cannot help
trying to cajole into border life-I meet heart-sickening failure. These
small
things are quite hardy, but the great world of the open garden
literally
frightens them out of their lives. The soil for
Daffodils should not be heavy and stiff, but light, rich, and
porous. Sand and wood ashes will do much toward putting a heavy soil
into the
proper condition, and the Rev. Joseph Jacob in his helpful book
“Daffodils”
suggests a little bone meal in the soil below the bulbs. As in the case
of all
bulbs, no manure Should come into contact with them, though a top
dressing in
winter is both beneficial and a safeguard. We plant the bulbs from four
to six
inches deep, according to size, and it is well to get them into the
ground as
early in the fall as they can be procured. If blooming well they may be
left undisturbed
until by “falling off” they testify to being overcrowded. Then
they may be dug up in spring, when the leaves have yellowed and lie
upon the
ground, dried and stored in open paper bags or boxes in a dry place,
until it is
time to replant them in late August and September. It is difficult to
go wrong in the selection of these all-beautiful
flowers, but the following is a list of moderate priced sorts, which
are doing
well in our garden: Of the Great Yellow
Trumpets, we have Emperor, Glory of Leiden, Golden
Spur, Henry Irving, Obvallaris, P. R. Barr, and maximus.
Of the lovely White Trumpets, we have Albicans, The Bicolour
Trumpets are a charming race with many representatives. Here
we have Empress, Grandee, Horsfeildii, J. B. M. Camm, Madame Plemp,
Oriana, Wm.
Goldring. The various kinds of
Chalice-Cupped Daffodils, or Star Narcissi,
comprising the Incomparabilis, Barrii, and Leedsii sections, have ever
been to
me the loveliest of these lovely flowers. They are truly star-like and
seem to
shed a soft radiance about them. Of the
Incomparabilis group there are Beauty, C. J. Backhouse, Cynosure,
Frank Miles, Lulworth, Queen Bess, Sir Watkin, Stella Superba, and Will
Scarlet. Among the Barrii
group are Albatros, Conspicuus, Falstaff, Oriflamme, and
Seagull. The cups of these are red rimmed. The
Eucharis-flowered or Leedsii group are softly coloured and delicately
fragrant. Ariadne, Duchess of Westminster, Katherine Spurrell, Mary
Magdelin de
Graff, Minnie Hume, and Mrs. Langtry. Besides these we
must have the little Jonquils or Rush-leaved Narcissi,
with several bright yellow, sweetly scented flowers to a stalk. Of
these, N.
Jonquilla and N. odorus (or
campernella) are
the only ones we have. The bulbs are very small and the flower stems
slender so
they should be planted with a generous hand. The glistening white
circle of petals and scarlet “eye” of the
Poet’s Narcissus is well known and beloved. The old Pheasant’s Eye is
very
inexpensive and one of the best bulbs for naturalizing, but of late
years some
very fine varieties of this type have been given to the world. Of
those, some of
the less expensive are, Almira, Glory, Herrick, Minerva. The Poet’s Narcissus
is one parent of a new race called Poetaz, having
several rather thick-fleshed flowers on a stem, the cups of which are
orange or
gold or scarlet. The only ones we have are Elvira, Aspasia, and Irene —
but
there are a number of others. Double Daffodils
lack something of the sprightly grace of the single
sorts, but the fat old Van Sion, with its rumpled green-gold petals, is
ever
welcome, and there are few more beautiful flowers at any season than
the double
poeticus, or Gardenia-flowered. It is important that the bulbs of this
sort
should be planted early in a deep, cool soil, not too dry. Then there
are the
double Incomparabilis Narcissi, the Sulphur Phoenix and Orange Phoenix,
known
respectively as Codlins-and-Cream and Eggs-and-Bacon. They are old
fashioned and
quaint looking with crowded petals like little roses, and are very
fragrant and
good for bouquets. Daffodils are
particularly charming when planted beneath the many
flowering trees and shrubs in bloom at their season. The light shade is
no
detriment to them, and their pale gold is very lovely with the pinks
and whites
of the fruit blossoms especially. Many bulbs will not
only tolerate but are benefited by a ground cover of
some small creeping plant which is so shallow-rooting that it does not
rob the
soil to any extent, but protects the bulb from the fierce rays of the
summer sun
and the flowers from the splashing mud in the rude spring storms. This
is true,
not only of the larger bulbs such as Daffodils, Tulips, and Crown
Imperials, but
of Grape Hyacinths, Scillas, Snowdrops, and other small things. Some of
the
“carpeters” which we have found most satisfactory are: Veronica
repens, Gypsophila repens, Sedum album, Sedum acre, Lotus corniculatus,
Thymus
lanuginosus and Serpyllum, and
Cerastium for small bulbs, with Aubrietia, Arabis, Alyssum, Arenaria
montana, Tunica saxifraga, Sweet Woodruff and Stachys
lanata for the larger sorts. Besides the bulbs
and flowering trees April offers more than one small
delight to weave into our fairy pictures. Earliest of these is the
snowy Rock
Cress (Arabis albida) which lies
in
little drifts in sheltered places and opens its wide fragrant blossoms
in the
early part of the month. The foliage is gray, and after the plants are
out of
bloom they are still pretty; they are wanderers, sowing their seed
freely and
appearing in all sorts of places. It loves the warm angles of steps or
walls or
a chink in a low retaining wall where it hangs in soft-coloured
festoons. There
is a double-flowered Arabis, a thing of much more pride and
circumstance than
the single, but I have not found that it comes true from seed. Beds of
pink and
white Cottage Maid Tulips are most fresh looking and spring-like
carpeted with
Arabis. Among the very
prettiest low-growing plants of any season are the
Aubrietias, which form little mounds of charming colour, the pleasant,
dusty
foliage almost hidden by the crowding blossoms, lavender, purple, rose,
and
crimson in many shades. Lavender is a splendid sort, Dr. Mules, a rich
purple;
Fire King, very striking crimson; Bridesmaid, a pale and lovely thing,
and
graeca, one of the older sorts but a fine tender lavender. Besides
these are
Lloyd Edwards, deep purple; Wedding Veil, pale mauve; and M. J. Stowe,
red-purple. They are easily raised from seed and sometimes bloom the
first
season. A large bed of seedling, M. J. Stowe in the nursery last year,
bloomed
from August until late in November. I find that Aubrietias suffer from
the
drought in our climate and need to be planted where they will have a
deep, cool
root-run, also that they appreciate a little lime in the soil. They are
particularly nice in combination with stonework, and a fine mass of
them here,
in the pure lavender and purple shades, tumbling over a stone-edged
border,
backed by groups of pale Star Narcissi and shadowed by a Cherry tree in
full
bloom, creates a lovely picture. Fine subjects, also,
for the April gardens, are the various varieties of Phlox
subulata. They have close, dark, rather prickly foliage, and
at this season
are so densely starred with bloom that the groundwork of foliage is
quite lost
sight of. The old magenta sort is the one most generally seen. About
here the
sad long and short mounds in the forlorn little country churchyards are
turned
literally to mounds of glory in April through the agency of this kindly
all-covering creeper. I am very fond of it, for while it is undoubtedly
of the
despised colour, it is lovely.
Behind our garden walls it is most happily placed, both
physically and spiritually, for its roots find a cool root-run and it
spreads
its warring colour over cool stones, with which it is at peace. Behind
it rises
feathery Artemisia Stelleriana and
long-stemmed Poet’s Narcissi. But for those who do not see magenta in
its true
light there are plenty of other lovely sorts, and best of all is that
named G.
F. Wilson, so silvery in its lavender colouring as to be almost gray.
It grows
at the top of a low retaining wall, over which it hangs in pale
coloured mats,
well set off by the clumps of dwarf purple Iris and light yellow Tulips
at the
wall top that come into bloom before the Phlox is past. Nelsoni is a
fine,
gleaming white sort, and others are Newry Seedling, mauve; The Bride,
white with
pink eye; Kathleen, rosy lilac, and Little Dot, white, blue eye. These little plants
are not at all set in their ways, and will gladly
creep between stones in any cranny where they can secure a foothold, or
they
will lie contentedly sunning themselves in spreading patches along the
borders.
I have never seen seed of these Phioxes offered, but one’s stock is
easily
increased by pegging down the little branches with a wire hairpin
immediately
after flowering and covering the pegged-down portion with sand, which
must be
kept moist. Roots will quickly form and the new plant may be detached
and
started upon a career of its own. Phlox
divaricata is
an upright little plant, carrying its wide, metallic-blue blossoms on
stems
about a foot high. It looks very well with the Daffodils, Arabis, and
early
Tulips. Improved varieties of this are Laphami and Ferry’s, both real
improvements in size and quality. There is also a white sort. These
plants do
well in partial shade as well as in sun and in shadowy places. The
fragrant
flowers last longer and shine with added lustre. In this garden hardy
Candytuft, Iberis
sempervirens, and the golden Alyssum — Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum, seem
to seek each other’s company. Whether the seeds are so planted or not,
the
winds and birds arrange their meetings and soon the little colonies of
cold
yellow and cold white are accomplished and very pleasant to look upon.
The
Candytuft is a handsome plant with dark, almost evergreen, foliage and
broad
heads of dead-white flowers. It is one of the most valuable plants for
the front
of the border and makes a fine foreground for masses of orange-scarlet
Tulips.
There is a dwarfer form called Little Gem, which is also useful. Iberis
gibraitarica is a lovely thing, with spreading flower beads,
white faintly
suggestive of mauve, but it is not, sadly enough, to be counted upon in
severe
winters. Sometimes in winter the leaves of sempervirens are badly
browned, in
which case it is best to cut the plants hard back. The golden Alyssum
wears rather a raw shade of yellow, but orange Tulips
and white flowers improve it, and it is so gay and willing that one
likes to
take a bit of trouble to bring it into harmony with its surroundings. It forms nice little
bushes about eight inches high, gray-leaved and soft,
and it loves a full exposure to the sun. Like all these spreading,
low-growing
plants, it enjoys growing over stones and is never so happy or
effective as when
hanging over a sunny wall surface. There is a variety of compactum
called
citrinum, a little softer in colour. A.
montanum is
a pretty yellow-flowered Alyssum with prostrate stems. A.
rostratum and A. argenteum, forming hoary little bushes
covered
with tarnished yellow flower heads, are both worthy of a place and
quite
different from the others in appearance. Before April is past
shy Primroses are showing in shadowy places about the
garden. Here we have only the yellow, sweet-scented English Primrose
and the gay
brown and yellow Polyanthus. We grow them under the flowering trees and
shrubs,
and protect them in winter. They love a cool, deep soil, and should be
divided
yearly just after they have flowered. We cannot leave
April without mention of the early Tulips, after the
Daffodils, her most charming decoration. The earliest to bloom here is Tulipa
Kaufmanniana, a beautiful species from Central Asia,
sometimes called the
Water-lily Tulip, with petals of delicate cream colour swept by flames
of
carmine on the exterior. T. K. var aurea is
yellow with carmine flashes and var. coccinea,
from Turkestan, is scarlet with a yellow base.
Kaufmanniana
is usually in
bloom by the middle of the month and is a matter of great pride and
enjoyment to
us, for it is rather rare in American gardens, and truly exquisite. What are known in
the catalogues as “earlies” arc hybrids developed
from some natural species. Many of them are sweet scented and they have
a thin,
almost transparent, quality to their petals lacking in the more robust
Tulips of
May. I love to plant them in stiff rows along the edges of the borders,
for
somehow their short stems and stiffly quaint air seems not suitable for
planting
in friendly groups, or in careless, broadcast fashion. Special favourites are Chrysolora, clear yellow rounded flower. Yellow Prince, finely scented. Thomas Moore, splendid red-orange. Prince of Orange, orange-scarlet, scented. Cottage Maid, dainty pink and white. Le Rêve, soft rose. Pink Beauty, cherry with white lines. Princess Helen, white. Flamingo, white-edged rose. Coleur Cardinal, rich, deep red. Brunehilde, white with yellow flashes. Wouverman, rich, reddish purple. White Swan, pure white, vase-shaped, blooms a little later. Belonging to the “earlies” are some double sorts well worth having, though they are rather heavy-headed and in wet weather are apt to get badly splashed with mud. We grow them in some eight-inch borders under the long grape arbours in the kitchen garden where the paths are of grass, so that when beaten down they rest upon the clean grass. We have not many sorts, but my favourite is Murillo, a lovely blush pink. Fine, too, and like a white Peony is Schoonoord which means “The Beautiful North.” Safrano is a pretty, delicate, salmon-coloured flower, and Tournesol, a flashing red and yellow. |