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FORMER INHABITANTS; AND
WINTER VISITORS
I WEATHERED some merry snow-storms, and
spent some cheerful winter evenings by my fireside, while the snow
whirled
wildly without, and even the hooting of the owl was hushed. For many
weeks I
met no one in my walks but those who came occasionally to cut wood and
sled it
to the village. The elements, however, abetted me in making a path
through the
deepest snow in the woods, for when I had once gone through the wind
blew the
oak leaves into my tracks, where they lodged, and by absorbing the rays
of the
sun melted the snow, and so not only made a my bed for my feet, but in
the
night their dark line was my guide. For human society I was obliged to
conjure
up the former occupants of these woods. Within the memory of many of my
townsmen the road near which my house stands resounded with the laugh
and
gossip of inhabitants, and the woods which border it were notched and
dotted
here and there with their little gardens and dwellings, though it was
then much
more shut in by the forest than now. In some places, within my own
remembrance,
the pines would scrape both sides of a chaise at once, and women and
children
who were compelled to go this way to Lincoln alone and on foot did it
with
fear, and often ran a good part of the distance. Though mainly but a
humble
route to neighboring villages, or for the woodman's team, it once
amused the
traveller more than now by its variety, and lingered longer in his
memory.
Where now firm open fields stretch from the village to the woods, it
then ran
through a maple swamp on a foundation of logs, the remnants of which,
doubtless, still underlie the present dusty highway, from the Stratton,
now the
Alms-House Farm, to Brister's Hill. East of my bean-field,
across the road, lived Cato Ingraham, slave of Duncan Ingraham,
Esquire,
gentleman, of Concord village, who built his slave a house, and gave
him
permission to live in Walden Woods; — Cato, not Uticensis, but
Concordiensis. Some say that he was a
Guinea Negro. There are a few who remember his little patch among the
walnuts,
which he let grow up till he should be old and need them; but a younger
and
whiter speculator got them at last. He too, however, occupies an
equally narrow
house at present. Cato's half-obliterated cellar-hole still remains,
though
known to few, being concealed from the traveller by a fringe of pines.
It is
now filled with the smooth sumach (Rhus glabra), and one of the
earliest
species of goldenrod (Solidago stricta) grows there luxuriantly.
Here, by the very corner of
my field, still nearer to town, Zilpha, a colored woman, had her little
house,
where she spun linen for the townsfolk, making the Walden Woods ring
with her
shrill singing, for she had a loud and notable voice. At length, in the
war of
1812, her dwelling was set on
fire by English soldiers, prisoners on parole, when she was away, and
her cat
and dog and hens were all burned up together. She led a hard life, and
somewhat
inhumane. One old frequenter of these woods remembers, that as he
passed her
house one noon he heard her muttering to herself over her gurgling pot
—
"Ye are all bones, bones!" I have seen bricks amid the oak copse
there. Down the road, on the right
hand, on Brister's Hill, lived Brister Freeman, "a handy Negro,"
slave of Squire Cummings once — there where grow still the apple
trees which
Brister planted and tended; large old trees now, but their fruit still
wild and
ciderish to my taste. Not long since I read his epitaph in the old
Lincoln
burying-ground, a little on one side, near the unmarked graves of some
British
grenadiers who fell in the retreat from Concord — where he is
styled
"Sippio Brister" — Scipio Africanus he had some title to be called — "a man of
color," as if
he were discolored. It also told me, with staring emphasis, when he
died; which
was but an indirect way of informing me that he ever lived. With him
dwelt
Fenda, his hospitable wife, who told fortunes, yet pleasantly —
large, round,
and black, blacker than any of the children of night, such a dusky orb
as never
rose on Concord before or since. Farther down the hill, on
the left, on the old road in the woods, are marks of some homestead of
the
Stratton family; whose orchard once covered all the slope of Brister's
Hill,
but was long since killed out by pitch pines, excepting a few stumps,
whose old
roots furnish still the wild stocks of many a thrifty village tree. Nearer yet to town, you come
to Breed's location, on the other side of the way, just on the edge of
the
wood; ground famous for the pranks of a demon not distinctly named in
old
mythology, who has acted a prominent and astounding part in our New
England
life, and deserves, as much as any mythological character, to have his
biography written one day; who first comes in the guise of a friend or
hired
man, and then robs and murders the whole family — New-England
Rum. But history
must not yet tell the tragedies enacted here; let time intervene in
some
measure to assuage and lend an azure tint to them. Here the most
indistinct and
dubious tradition says that once a tavern stood; the well the same,
which tempered
the traveller's beverage and refreshed his steed. Here then men saluted
one
another, and heard and told the news, and went their ways again. Breed's hut was standing
only a dozen years ago, though it had long been unoccupied. It was
about the
size of mine. It was set on fire by mischievous boys, one Election
night,
if I do not mistake. I lived on the edge of the village then, and had
just lost
myself over Davenant's "Gondibert," that
winter that I labored with a lethargy
— which, by the way, I never knew whether to regard as a family
complaint,
having an uncle who goes to sleep
shaving himself, and is obliged to sprout potatoes
in a cellar Sundays, in order to keep awake and keep the Sabbath, or as
the
consequence of my attempt to read Chalmers'
collection of English
poetry without skipping. It fairly overcame my Nervii. I had just sunk
my head
on this when the bells rung fire, and in hot haste the engines rolled
that way,
led by a straggling troop of men and boys, and I among the foremost,
for I had
leaped the brook. We thought it was far south over the woods — we
who had run
to fires before — barn, shop, or dwelling-house, or all together.
"It's
Baker's barn," cried one. "It is the Codman place," affirmed
another. And then fresh sparks went up above the wood, as if the roof
fell in,
and we all shouted "Concord to the rescue!" Wagons shot past with
furious speed and crushing loads, bearing, perchance, among the rest,
the agent
of the Insurance Company, who was bound to go however far; and ever and
anon
the engine bell tinkled behind, more slow and sure; and rearmost of
all, as it
was afterward whispered, came they who set the fire and gave the alarm.
Thus we
kept on like true idealists, rejecting the evidence of our senses,
until at a
turn in the road we heard the crackling and actually felt the heat of
the fire
from over the wall, and realized, alas! that we were there. The very
nearness
of the fire but cooled our ardor. At first we thought to throw a
frog-pond on
to it; but concluded to let it burn, it was so far gone and so
worthless. So we stood round our engine, jostled one another,
expressed
our sentiments through speaking-trumpets, or in lower tone referred to
the
great conflagrations which the world has witnessed, including Bascom's
shop,
and, between ourselves, we thought that, were we there in season with
our
"tub," and a full frog-pond by, we
could turn that threatened last and universal one into another flood.
We
finally retreated without doing any mischief — returned to sleep
and "Gondibert."
But as for "Gondibert," I would except that passage in the preface
about wit being the soul's powder — "but most of mankind are
strangers to
wit, as Indians are to powder." It chanced that I walked
that way across the fields the following night, about the same hour,
and
hearing a low moaning at this spot, I drew near in the dark, and
discovered the
only survivor of the family that I know, the heir of both its virtues
and its
vices, who alone was interested in this burning, lying on his stomach
and
looking over the cellar wall at the still smouldering cinders beneath,
muttering to himself, as is his wont. He had been working far off in
the river
meadows all day, and had improved the first moments that he could call
his own
to visit the home of his fathers and his youth. He gazed into the
cellar from
all sides and points of view by turns, always lying down to it, as if
there was
some treasure, which he remembered, concealed between the stones, where
there
was absolutely nothing but a heap of bricks and ashes. The house
being
gone, he looked at what there was left. He was soothed by the sympathy
which my
mere presence, implied, and showed me, as well as the darkness
permitted, where
the well was covered up; which, thank Heaven, could never be burned;
and he
groped long about the wall to find the well-sweep which his father had
cut and
mounted, feeling for the iron hook or staple by which a burden had been
fastened to the heavy end — all that he could now cling to
— to convince me
that it was no common "rider." I felt it, and still
remark it almost daily in my walks, for by it hangs the history of a
family. Once more, on the left,
where are seen the well and lilac bushes by the wall, in the now open
field,
lived Nutting and Le Grosse. But to return toward Lincoln. Farther in the woods than
any of these, where the road approaches nearest to the pond, Wyman the
potter
squatted, and furnished his townsmen with earthenware, and left
descendants to
succeed him. Neither were they rich in worldly goods, holding the land
by
sufferance while they lived; and there often the sheriff came in vain
to
collect the taxes, and "attached a chip," for form's sake, as I have
read in his accounts, there being nothing else that he could lay his
hands on.
One day in midsummer, when I was hoeing, a man who was carrying a load
of
pottery to market stopped his horse against my field and inquired
concerning
Wyman the younger. He had long ago bought a potter's wheel of him, and
wished
to know what had become of him. I had read of the potter's clay and
wheel in
Scripture, but it had never occurred to me that the pots we use were
not such
as had come down unbroken from those days, or grown on trees like
gourds somewhere,
and I was pleased to hear that so fictile an art was ever practiced in
my
neighborhood. The last inhabitant of these
woods before me was an Irishman, Hugh Quoil (if I have spelt his name
with coil
enough), who occupied Wyman's tenement — Col. Quoil, he was
called. Rumor said
that he had been a soldier at Waterloo. If he had lived I should have
made him
fight his battles over again. His trade here was that of a ditcher.
Napoleon
went to St. Helena; Quoil came to Walden Woods. All I know of him is
tragic. He
was a man of manners, like one who had seen the world, and was capable
of more
civil speech than you could well attend to. He wore a greatcoat in
midsummer,
being affected with the trembling delirium, and his face was the color
of
carmine. He died in the road at the foot of Brister's Hill shortly
after I came
to the woods, so that I have not remembered him as a neighbor. Before
his house
was pulled down, when his comrades avoided it as "an unlucky castle,"
I visited it. There lay his old clothes curled up by use, as if they
were
himself, upon his raised plank bed. His pipe lay broken on the hearth,
instead
of a bowl broken at the fountain. The last could never have been the
symbol of
his death, for he confessed to me that, though he had heard of
Brister's
Spring, he had never seen it; and soiled cards, kings of diamonds,
spades, and
hearts, were scattered over the floor. One black chicken which the
administrator could not catch, black as night and as silent, not even
croaking,
awaiting Reynard, still went to roost in the next apartment. In the
rear there
was the dim outline of a garden, which had been planted but had never
received
its first hoeing, owing to those terrible shaking fits, though it was
now
harvest time. It was overrun with Roman wormwood and beggar-ticks,
which last
stuck to my clothes for all fruit. The skin of a woodchuck was
freshly
stretched upon the back of the house, a trophy of his last Waterloo; but no
warm cap or mittens
would he want more. Now only a dent in the earth
marks the site of these dwellings, with buried cellar stones, and
strawberries,
raspberries, thimble-berries, hazel-bushes, and sumachs growing in the
sunny
sward there; some pitch pine or gnarled oak occupies what was the
chimney nook,
and a sweet-scented black birch, perhaps, waves where the door-stone
was.
Sometimes the well dent is visible, where once a spring oozed; now dry
and
tearless grass; or it was covered deep — not to be discovered
till some late
day — with a flat stone under the sod, when the last of the race
departed. What
a sorrowful act must that be — the covering up of wells!
coincident with the
opening of wells of tears. These cellar dents, like deserted fox
burrows,
old holes, are all that is left where once were the stir and bustle of
human
life, and "fate, free will, foreknowledge absolute," in
some form and dialect or
other were by turns discussed. But all I can learn of their conclusions
amounts
to just this, that "Cato and Brister pulled wool"; which is about as
edifying as the history of more famous schools of philosophy. Still grows the vivacious
lilac a generation after the door and lintel and the sill are gone,
unfolding
its sweet-scented flowers each spring, to be plucked by the musing
traveller;
planted and tended once by children's hands, in front-yard plots
— now standing
by wallsides in retired pastures, and giving place to new-rising
forests; — the
last of that stirp, sole survivor of that family. Little did the dusky
children
think that the puny slip with its two eyes only, which they stuck in
the ground
in the shadow of the house and daily watered, would root itself so, and
outlive
them, and house itself in the rear that shaded it, and grown man's
garden and
orchard, and tell their story faintly to the lone wanderer a
half-century after
they had grown up and died — blossoming as fair, and smelling as
sweet, as in
that first spring. I mark its still tender, civil, cheerful lilac
colors. But this small village, germ
of something more, why did it fail while Concord keeps its ground? Were
there
no natural advantages — no water privileges, forsooth? Ay, the
deep Walden Pond
and cool Brister's Spring — privilege to drink long and healthy
draughts at
these, all unimproved by these men but to dilute their glass. They were
universally a thirsty race. Might not the basket, stable-broom,
mat-making,
corn-parching, linen-spinning, and pottery business have thrived here,
making
the wilderness to blossom like the rose, and a numerous posterity have
inherited the land of their fathers? The sterile soil would at least
have been
proof against a low-land degeneracy. Alas! how little does the memory
of these
human inhabitants enhance the beauty of the landscape! Again, perhaps,
Nature
will try, with me for a first settler, and my house raised last spring
to be
the oldest in the hamlet. I am not aware that any man
has ever built on the spot which I occupy. Deliver me from a city built
on the
site of a more ancient city, whose materials are ruins, whose gardens
cemeteries. The soil is blanched and accursed there, and before that
becomes
necessary the earth itself will be destroyed. With such reminiscences I
repeopled the woods and lulled myself asleep. At this season I seldom had
a visitor. When the snow lay deepest no wanderer ventured near my house
for a
week or fortnight at a time, but there I lived as snug as a meadow
mouse, or as
cattle and poultry which are said to have survived for a long time
buried in
drifts, even without food; or like that early settler's family in the
town of
Sutton, in this State, whose cottage was completely covered by the
great snow
of 1717 when he was absent, and an Indian found it only by the hole
which the
chimney's breath made in the drift, and so relieved the family. But no
friendly
Indian concerned himself about me; nor needed he, for the master of the
house
was at home. The Great Snow! How cheerful it is to hear of! When the
farmers
could not get to the woods and swamps with their teams, and were
obliged to cut
down the shade trees before their houses, and, when the crust was
harder, cut
off the trees in the swamps, ten feet from the ground, as it appeared
the next
spring. In the deepest snows, the
path which I used from the highway to my house, about half a mile long,
might
have been represented by a meandering dotted line, with wide intervals
between
the dots. For a week of even weather I took exactly the same number of
steps,
and of the same length, coming and going, stepping deliberately and
with the
precision of a pair of dividers in my own deep tracks — to such
routine the
winter reduces us — yet often they were filled with heaven's own
blue. But no
weather interfered fatally with my walks, or rather my going abroad,
for I
frequently tramped eight or ten miles through the deepest snow to keep
an
appointment with a beech tree, or a yellow birch, or an old
acquaintance among
the pines; when the ice and snow causing their limbs to droop, and so
sharpening their tops, had changed the pines into fir trees; wading to
the tops
of the highest hills when the show was nearly two feet deep on a level,
and
shaking down another snow-storm on my head at every step; or sometimes
creeping
and floundering thither on my hands and knees, when the hunters had
gone into
winter quarters. One afternoon I amused myself by watching a barred owl
(Strix
nebulosa) sitting on one of the lower dead limbs of a white pine,
close to
the trunk, in broad daylight, I standing within a rod of him. He could
hear me
when I moved and cronched the snow with my feet, but could not plainly
see me.
When I made most noise he would stretch out his neck, and erect his
neck
feathers, and open his eyes wide; but their lids soon fell again, and
he began
to nod. I too felt a slumberous influence after watching him half an
hour, as
he sat thus with his eyes half open, like a cat, winged brother of the
cat.
There was only a narrow slit left between their lids, by which be
preserved a
pennisular relation to me; thus, with half-shut eyes, looking out from
the land
of dreams, and endeavoring to realize me, vague object or mote that
interrupted
his visions. At length, on some louder noise or my nearer approach, he
would
grow uneasy and sluggishly turn about on his perch, as if impatient at
having
his dreams disturbed; and when he launched himself off and flapped
through the
pines, spreading his wings to unexpected breadth, I could not hear the
slightest sound from them. Thus, guided amid the pine boughs rather by
a
delicate sense of their neighborhood than by sight, feeling his
twilight way,
as it were, with his sensitive pinions, he found a new perch, where he
might in
peace await the dawning of his day. As I walked over the long
causeway made for the railroad through the meadows, I encountered many
a
blustering and nipping wind, for nowhere has it freer play; and when
the frost
had smitten me on one cheek, heathen as I was, I turned to it the other
also.
Nor was it much better by the carriage road from Brister's Hill. For I
came to
town still, like a friendly Indian, when the contents of the broad open
fields
were all piled up between the walls of the Walden road, and half an
hour
sufficed to obliterate the tracks of the last traveller. And when I
returned
new drifts would have formed, through which I floundered, where the
busy
northwest wind had been depositing the powdery snow round a sharp angle
in the
road, and not a rabbit's track, nor even the fine print, the small
type, of a
meadow mouse was to be seen. Yet I rarely failed to find, even in
midwinter,
some warm and springly swamp where the grass and the skunk-cabbage
still put
forth with perennial verdure, and some hardier bird occasionally
awaited the
return of spring. Sometimes, notwithstanding
the snow, when I returned from my walk at evening I crossed the deep
tracks of
a woodchopper leading from my door, and found his pile of whittlings on
the
hearth, and my house filled with the odor of his pipe. Or on a
Sunday
afternoon, if I chanced to be at home, I heard the cronching of the
snow made
by the step of a long-headed farmer, who from far through the woods
sought my
house, to have a social "crack"; one of the few of his vocation who
are "men on their farms"; who donned a frock instead
of a professor's gown, and is as ready to extract the moral out of
church or
state as to haul a load of manure from his barn-yard. We talked of rude
and
simple times, when men sat about large fires in cold, bracing weather,
with
clear heads; and when other dessert failed, we tried our teeth on many
a nut
which wise squirrels have long since abandoned, for those which have
the
thickest shells are commonly empty. The one who came from
farthest to my lodge, through deepest snows and most dismal tempests,
was a
poet. A farmer, a hunter, a
soldier, a reporter, even a philosopher, may be daunted; but nothing
can deter
a poet, for he is actuated by pure love. Who can predict his comings
and
goings? His business calls him out at all hours, even when doctors
sleep. We
made that small house ring with boisterous mirth and resound with the
murmur of
much sober talk, making amends then to Walden vale for the long
silences.
Broadway was still and deserted in comparison. At suitable intervals
there were
regular salutes of laughter, which might have been referred
indifferently to
the last-uttered or the forth-coming jest. We made many a "bran new"
theory of life over a thin dish of gruel, which combined the advantages
of
conviviality with the clear-headedness which philosophy requires. I should not forget that
during my last winter at the pond there was another welcome visitor, who at
one time came
through the village, through snow and rain and darkness, till he saw my
lamp
through the trees, and shared with me some long winter evenings. One of
the
last of the philosophers — Connecticut gave him to the world
— he peddled first
her wares, afterwards, as he declares, his brains. These he peddles
still,
prompting God and disgracing man, bearing for fruit his brain only,
like the
nut its kernel. I think that he must be the man of the most faith of
any alive.
His words and attitude always suppose a better state of things than
other men
are acquainted with, and he will be the last man to be disappointed as
the ages
revolve. He has no venture in the present. But though
comparatively disregarded
now, when his day comes, laws unsuspected by most will take effect, and
masters
of families and rulers will come to him for advice. "How blind that cannot
see serenity!"
A true friend of man; almost
the only friend of human progress. An Old Mortality, say
rather an Immortality,
with unwearied patience and faith making plain the image engraven in
men's
bodies, the God of whom they are but defaced and leaning monuments.
With his
hospitable intellect he embraces children, beggars, insane, and
scholars, and
entertains the thought of all, adding to it commonly some breadth and
elegance.
I think that he should keep a caravansary on the world's highway, where
philosophers of all nations might put up, and on his sign should be
printed,
"Entertainment for man, but not for his beast. Enter ye that have
leisure
and a quiet mind, who earnestly seek the right road." He is perhaps the
sanest man and has the fewest crotchets of any I chance to know; the
same
yesterday and tomorrow. Of yore we had sauntered and talked, and
effectually
put the world behind us; for he was pledged to no institution in it,
freeborn,
ingenuus. Whichever way we turned, it seemed that the heavens and the
earth had
met together, since he enhanced the beauty of the landscape. A
blue-robed man,
whose fittest roof is the overarching sky which reflects his serenity.
I do not
see how he can ever die; Nature cannot spare him. Having each some shingles of
thought well dried, we sat and whittled them, trying our knives, and
admiring
the clear yellowish grain of the pumpkin pine. We waded so gently and
reverently, or we pulled together so smoothly, that the fishes of
thought were
not scared from the stream, nor feared any angler on the bank, but came
and
went grandly, like the clouds which float through the western sky, and
the
mother-o'-pearl flocks which sometimes form and dissolve there. There
we
worked, revising mythology, rounding a fable here and there, and
building
castles in the air for which earth offered no worthy foundation. Great
Looker!
Great Expecter! to converse with whom was a New England Night's
Entertainment.
Ah! such discourse we had, hermit and philosopher, and the old settler
I have
spoken of — we three — it expanded and racked my little
house; I should not
dare to say how many pounds' weight there was above the atmospheric
pressure on
every circular inch; it opened its seams so that they had to be calked
with
much dulness thereafter to stop the consequent leak; — but I had
enough of that
kind of oakum already picked. There was one other with whom I had "solid seasons," long to be
remembered,
at his house in the village, and who looked in upon me from time to
time; but I
had no more for society there. There too, as everywhere, I sometimes expected the Visitor who never comes. The Vishnu Purana says, "The house-holder is to remain at eventide in his courtyard as long as it takes to milk a cow, or longer if he pleases, to await the arrival of a guest." I often performed this duty of hospitality, waited long enough to milk a whole herd of cows, but did not see the man approaching from the town. |