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IV THE SCOT ABROAD Of all mysteries of the
human heart, this is perhaps
the most inscrutable. There is no special loveliness in that gray
country, with
its rainy, sea-beat archipelago; its fields of dark mountains; its
unsightly
places, black with coal; its treeless, sour, unfriendly looking
cornlands; its
quaint, gray, castled city, where the bells clash of a Sunday, and the
wind
squalls, and the salt showers fly and beat. I do not even know if I
desire to
live there; but let me hear, in some far land, a kindred voice sing
out, "Oh,
why left I my hame?" and it seems at once as if no beauty under the
kind
heavens, and no society of the wise and good, can repay me for my
absence from
my country. And though I think I would rather die elsewhere, yet in my
heart of
hearts I long to be buried among good Scots clods. I will say it
fairly, it
grows on me with every year: there are no stars so lovely as Edinburgh
street-lamps. When I forget thee, Auld Reekie, may my right hand forget
its
cunning! The happiest lot on earth
is to be born a Scotchman.
You must pay for it in many ways, as for all other advantages on earth.
You
have to learn the paraphrases and the shorter catechism; you generally
take to
drink; your youth, as far as I can find out, is a time of louder war
against
society, of more outcry and tears and turmoil, than if you had been
born, for
instance, in England. But somehow life is warmer and closer; the hearth
burns more
redly; the lights of home shine softer on the rainy street; the very
names,
endeared in verse and music, cling nearer round our hearts. An
Englishman may
meet an Englishman tomorrow, upon Chimborazo, and neither of them care;
but
when the Scotch wine-grower told me of Mons Meg, it was like magic. "From the dim shieling on
the misty
island
Mountains divide us, and a world of seas; Yet still our hearts are true, our hearts are Highland, And we, in dreams, behold the Hebrides." Only a few days after I
had seen M'Eckron, a
message reached me in my cottage. It was a Scotchman who had come down
a long
way from the hills to market. He had heard there was a countryman in
Calistoga,
and came round to the hotel to see him. We said a few words to each
other; we
had not much to say — should never have seen each other had we stayed
at home,
separated alike in space and in society; and then we shook hands, and
he went
his way again to his ranche among the hills, and that was all. Another Scotchman there
was, a resident, who
for the mere love of the common country, douce, serious, religious man,
drove
me all about the valley, and took as much interest in me as if I had
been his
son: more, perhaps; for the son has faults too keenly felt, while the
abstract
countryman is perfect — like a whiff of peats. And there was yet
another. Upon him I came suddenly,
as he was calmly entering my cottage, his mind quite evidently bent on
plunder:
a man of about fifty, filthy, ragged, roguish, with a chimney-pot hat
and a
tail coat, and a pursing of his mouth that might have been envied by an
elder
of the kirk. He had just such a face as I have seen a dozen times
behind the
plate. "Hullo, sir!" I cried.
"Where
are you going?" He turned round without a
quiver. "You're a Scotchman,
sir?" he said
gravely. "So am I; I come from Aberdeen. This is my card," presenting
me with a piece of pasteboard which he had raked out of some gutter in
the
period of the rains. "I was just examining this palm," he continued,
indicating the misbegotten plant before our door, "which is the largest
specimen I have yet observed in California." There were four or five
larger within sight. But
where was the use of argument? He produced a tape-line, made me help
him to
measure the tree at the level of the ground, and entered the figures in
a large
and filthy pocket-book, all with the gravity of Solomon. He then
thanked me
profusely, remarking that such little services were due between
countrymen; shook
hands with me, "for auld lang syne," as he said; and took himself
solemnly awa\^ radiating dirt and humbug as he went. A month or two after this
encounter of mine, there
came a Scot to Sacramento — perhaps from Aberdeen. Anyway, there never
was any one
more Scotch in this wide world. He could sing and dance, and drink, I
presume; and
he played the pipes with vigour and success. All the Scotch in
Sacramento
became infatuated with him, and spent their spare time and money,
driving him
about in an open cab, between drinks, while he blew himself scarlet at
the
pipes. This is a very sad story. After he had borrowed money from every
one, he
and his pipes suddenly disappeared from Sacramento, and when I last
heard, the
police were looking for him. I cannot say how this
story amused me, when I
felt myself so thoroughly ripe on both sides to be duped in the same
way. It is at least a curious
thing, to conclude, that
the races which wander widest, Jews and Scotch, should be the most
clannish in
the world. But perhaps these two are cause and effect: "For ye were
strangers in the land of Egypt." |