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INDIAN LIFE IN TOWN
AND COUNTRY
CHAPTER I INDIA AS IT IS IT is a
habit of
current speech to refer to India much as one does to France, Spain, or
Germany,
conscious only that it is a far more extensive country. In the map of
the
world, it is depicted as an all-red possession, which tends to the
suggestion
of a homogeneous land. But it is, in fact, a conglomeration of distinct
kingdoms and peoples, differing as widely in conditions and
characteristics as
Russia and Portugal, or the Norwegian and the Turk. The term
“Indian”
should convey to the mind the same cosmopolitan suggestion as the
expression
“European.” Under this really generic designation are grouped numerous
races as
distinct and individual as the Frenchman and the German, the Dutchman
and the
Greek. And when we come to discuss “Our Neighbour the Indian,” it must
be
understood we are arbitrarily making concrete what is in the abstract a
heterogeneous, polyglot combination of individuals, who belong to a
dozen
different nationalities, speak a Babel of tongues, and live in a
variety of
countries, the physical features of which differ as much as their
climatic
conditions. If we can
suppose
ourselves in the position of a Cossack riding through the Khyber Pass,
and
cantering down to Calcutta, Cape Comorin, and Karachi, we shall be able
to get
the best idea of the races who inhabit India in their appropriate
distribution
and sequence, and observe them toning off like a chromatic scale. Our
Cossack
will find them as diverse as if he penetrated from Moscow to Sweden,
Spain, and
Greece. As he emerges from the rugged Pass which has been the principal
gateway
of invasion, he will be confronted with bearded Mahomedans, speaking
Pushto;
and stalwart Sikhs, speaking Punjabi, who will gaze at the intruder
with the
calm confidence begotten of broad shoulders, brawny muscles, and a
stature
often exceeding six feet. Penetrating farther, he will observe but
little
deterioration in the clean-run men of Rohilkhund and Oudh, the hardy
Jat
cultivators about Delhi, the martial Rajpoots of Rajputana, and the
hardy
Baluchis of the Indus Valley (all speaking strange tongues), as they
rise in
his path in the segment of a circle which stretches from mid-Himalayas
to
mid-Sind. These races will coincide physically with the Northern
peoples of
Europe, the Scandinavian, Saxon, Celt, and Teuton. Their origin is
Aryan,
Scythian, Arab, and Tartar. Pursuing
his road
east, south-east, and south, the Cossack will discover in the
inhabitants of
Lower Sind, Kattywar, Guzerat, the Northern Deccan, Central India, and
the
Upper Gangetic Valley, races somewhat smaller in stature and darker in
complexion (speaking several new languages), who may not be inaptly
compared to
the French, the Slays, and the Hungarians. The next radius of the
circle brings
us to the coastal countries, where dwell the effeminate Bengalis, the
midget
races who inhabit the Malabar seaboard, and the Tamil and Talugu
speaking folk
of Southern India. These, and the Burmese in the Far East, may fitly
represent
the Mediterranean nationalities of Europe. They spring from Dravidian
and Mongolian
stock, and the infusion of Aryan with non-Aryan blood. The scale of
physical
development is distinctly a sliding one, as it drops down the
peninsula, the
comparative giants of the north melting into the middle-sized
Indo-Mongolians
of the Far East, and the Dravidian dwarfs of the extreme south. Here
and there,
chiefly in mountain or desert tracts, aboriginal races will have been
met,
belonging to the Kolarian division, and displaying characteristics of
their
own. If you could muster a representative assemblage of all these
races, you
would find that they expressed themselves in over seventy different
tongues,
represented every shade of complexion, and every degree of physical
development, and displayed far greater divergencies than a similar
gathering
from Continental Europe could produce. In similar
wise,
our roving Cossack will have passed through as many countries as there
are
races. On his entry into India, Cashmere, on his left, will have
supplied a
standard of terrestrial perfection. It is the Riviera of our Eastern
Empire,
where, in the past, the Mogul Emperors were wont to revel, and where,
in the
present, the fortunate Anglo-Indian flits when he desires to enjoy a
supreme
holiday. Radiating east and south, the Cossack will perceive in the
snowy
slopes and cool valleys of the Himalayas, the sub-montane districts
below them,
the level plains of the Punjab, the stifling sands of Sind, the arid
deserts of
Rajputana, the steaming valley of the Gangetic basin, the rugged
highlands of
Central India, the tableland of the Deccan, the garden province of
Guzerat, the
palm-fringed Malabar coast, the paddy-fields of Burmah, the rocky
hinterlands
of the interior of Southern India, the fertile coastal territories of
the
Coromandel, the forested tracts of the Ghauts, Mysore, and the Wynaad,
the
rolling downs of the Neilgherries, and the tropic glories of Travancore
— he
will recognise in all these varying scenes distinct countries,
differing one
from another in aspect and altitude, in flora and fauna, and in soil
and
climate, as completely as do the peoples who inhabit them in race,
religion,
and language. Meanwhile,
our
hardy traveller might have experienced vicissitudes of temperature and
rainfall
able to confound all his previous knowledge, even if it comprehended a
winter
on the shores of the Baltic, and a summer on those of the Black Sea.
For
instance, at Murree, in the Punjab, a hill station within a few hours
of the
Indian Aldershot, he might have been buried in six feet of snow; at
Cheerapoonji, in Assam, half-drowned in a rainfall that exceeds four
hundred
inches a year. The process of thawing could have been accelerated by a
trip to
Jacobabad in Sind, where the thermometer looks down at 130 degrees in
the
shade; and for a dry climate Bickaneer is hard to beat, seeing that
twenty-four
months may pass without any rain at all. Incidentally, our enterprising
Cossack
might have discovered districts where the thermometer straddles over
eighty
degrees in the twelve months and others where the sluggish mercury is
seldom
called upon to execute a variant of more than a dozen. So also with the
rainfall: here it may continue for eight months, whilst two monsoons
blow their
vapours over the land; and there confine itself to eight weeks of
summer
showers. To gain an extended idea of what is practicable in the
vagaries of the
firmament, a study of the meteorological phenomena of England’s Eastern
Empire
will enlarge the mind. Concerning
a
conglomeration of countries so diversified in people, topography, and
climate,
it is difficult to generalise. As we survey the kaleidoscopic whole,
the wonder
rises to find them under a single rule. One law runs current through
all these
kingdoms and peoples; one brain directs them. The edict issued at Simla
or
Calcutta can control with equal force this cosmopolitan land. And yet a
hundred
and fifty years ago, what is now a prosperous and peaceful Empire was a
vast
cockpit for warring nations, a seething hotbed of opposing
nationalities, and a
veritable scene of unceasing tumult and battle. For nearly
fifty
years, not a cannon has been fired in anger within the confines proper
of
British India, and that is the greatest victory the English have
achieved in
the East. Well might De Tocqueville write: “There has never been
anything so
wonderful under the sun as the conquest, and, still more, the
government, of
India by the British.” Let us
glance back
a hundred years and draw a parallel. In 1802, Napoleon wrung from the
English
the peace of Amiens — armistice, we may better call it — and compelled
them to
surrender all that they had won during the war with the French
Republic. For
the next decade, the progress and prestige of France in Europe
resembled that
of England in India. Each was a career of conquest. Wellesley, who
broke the
power of the Sultan of Mysore and the Mahrattas, was, in effect, the
Napoleon
of India. He carried England into the dominant position. Had Napoleon
consolidated and extended his conquests in the West as England did in
the East,
the whole of Europe to-day would have been under the peaceful dominion
of
France. Had the English made no better use of their advantages than the
Corsican, they would to-day be confined to the Gangetic basin, a
moderate
territory in Madras, Bombay city, and one or two ports on the Malabar
coast.
But they had the genius to hold, assimilate, and extend. Where their
foot was
planted there it stayed, and presently advanced. And although they
suffered a
Moscow in Afghanistan in the ‘forties, they avoided a Waterloo at Delhi
in the
‘fifties, and rose as high above their difficulties as Napoleon fell
below his.
India of to-day, with its countless kingdoms, principalities, and
peoples,
conquered and held by the sword, yet ruled in absolute internal peace,
with
justice, moderation, and benefit to its inhabitants, shows what a
nation can do
that can govern as well as conquer. It is
difficult to
say what causes have principally operated to bring about this
marvellous
result; how much should be attributed to the genius of the conquering
race for
governing, how much to the adaptability of the conquered race for being
governed. Taken as a whole, the natives of India, with the exception of
a few
turbulent Mahomedans, are law-abiding to the point of servility. They
are no
strangers to submission, and perhaps the English have reaped where
others have
sown. Provided you do not interfere with their two sacred prejudices, —
their
caste and women, — they will endure more than most people. For
centuries, they
have lived in a subject state; subject to ruthless conquerors; subject
to
pestilence and famine; subject to the exactions of their own rulers.
They were
pliable material to work upon, and when they came under the British
yoke, meek,
spiritless, and browbeaten. Instead of oppressing them, England
ameliorated
their condition, and although their prejudices are monumental, they had
the wit
to see that their circumstances were improved, and the commonsense to
adapt
themselves to them. That was in the old days, before they were
educated.
Notwithstanding they are no older than the ‘sixties, from that time
began the
period of present transition, which is slowly but surely transforming
the
peoples of India, and changing the East, that has been called
Unchanging. Modern
India dates
from the opening of the Suez Canal, and the influx of prosperity and
civilisation that followed it. Ferdinand de Lesseps did more for the
Indian
Empire in one decade than England did in all the previous ones. In
these days,
when one has only to go to Ludgate Circus to take a ticket for Central
Africa,
it is difficult to believe that a generation ago there were great
tracts in the
Indian Empire where you habitually travelled on men’s shoulders to
reach your
destination. I do not mean to imply that you have not to do so still —
I have a
vivid recollection, not so many months ago, of a twelve hours’ journey
in a “dhoolie” or
palanquin — but twenty-five
thousand miles of railway have been built since 1870. The railway is
the
greatest revolutionist of modern times, and especially in a country
like India,
where the inhabitants are bound in the iron chains of caste, and where
nations
are divided from nations, and sections from sections, by gaps there
were no
means of bridging until the third-class railway carriage came, not only
to
transport them, but to shuffle them up, teach them to mingle with one
another,
and cast them cheek by jowl in the same compartment. The introduction
of
transit was followed by travel, the best form of education. People who
see a
little want to see more; who learn a little want to learn more. The
peasant who
stole a peep at the train gliding by, his superstitious mind convinced
it was a
fearful and unclean thing, found familiarity breed content instead of
contempt,
for it presently developed into a desire to ride therein. Thereafter,
he became
an unconscious emissary of civilisation, who was never weary of
detailing his
experiences, and the incentive for others to follow in his bold
footsteps. The
railways of India are probably the most crowded with passenger traffic
of any
in the world, and not one man in a hundred thousand of those who use
them
to-day would have met, travelled, and rubbed shoulders forty years ago.
The
same may of course be said of any country or continent; but, as we
shall
presently see, the act of “rubbing shoulders” implies far more in India
than in
any other part of the world. I have
endeavoured
to show by a rapid survey the varying peoples which the Empire
contains, but
the point is one which will bear a little more detailed treatment,
especially
as the scope of this book does not admit of enlargement on it
hereafter. The
main division of the inhabitants is based on religion. They are divided
into
Hindus, and Mahomedans, the former numbering (roughly speaking) a
hundred and
eighty millions, and the latter sixty. The cleavage of ideas, morals,
manners,
and characteristics between them is as absolute as between either of
them and
Europeans, or between Turks and Christians in South-Eastern Europe. The
Mahomedans are
the descendants of the Moslem invaders who, for a thousand years,
poured into
India from the West, and established kingdoms and dynasties of their
own, which
found a zenith in the Mogul Empire. Its fall left the country dotted
with
Mahomedan principalities usurped by the Viceroys who had broken free
from the
Imperial authority. Inheritors of such a history, it is only natural
that the
Mahomedans should retain the instincts of a conquering class, and any
turbulence or unrest generally arises in communities of that faith. The
downfall of the
Mogul was followed by a convulsion of war and conquest, the beginning
of which
marked the establishment of British power in India, and the end saw two
thirds
of it under England’s direct rule, and the remainder tributary to her.
In that
portion, she has kept her hands off the only considerable Mahomedan
states —
those of Hyderabad and Bhawalpur, and the Mahomedan territory of
Cashmere,
ruled by a Hindu dynasty. The Hindu states include Mysore, Travancore,
and
those governed by Mahratta, Rajpoot, and Sikh rulers. The
British
territory is divided into six large provinces — Bengal, Bombay, Madras,
the
Northwest Provinces and Oudh, the Punjab, and Burmah — and eight
smaller ones,
administered by Governors, Lieutenant-Governors, Chief-Commissioners
and Agents
to the Governor-General, the whole under the Viceroy, who represents
the
King-Emperor, and has been described as His Majesty’s Greatest Subject.
These
provinces include what were once the high and puissant kingdoms of the
Subandar
of Bengal, the Nawab of the Carnatic, the Peshwa of the Mahrattas, the
Emperor
of Delhi (more commonly known as the Great Mogul), the King of Oudh,
the
Maharajah of the Punjab, the King of Burmah, and the Ameers of Sind.
All these
were in their day potentates of the first magnitude in the estimation
of their
contemporaries; many of them the English sued for favours. These
dynasties have
been irrevocably destroyed by British conquest and annexation--wiped
out of
existence as completely as Poland. Besides
these two
leading religious denominations into which India has been broadly
divided,
there are several other smaller ones to be taken into consideration.
Some of
them are very interesting and curious. The wild aboriginal tribes, who
declined
conversion to Hinduism when the great Aryan invasion swept over the
country,
number about ten millions. Buddhism is professed by another ten
millions,
chiefly resident in Burmah, whilst a third ten millions in the Punjab
follow
the Sikh faith. The Sikhs are a sect apart, and sprang into existence
in quite
recent times, comparatively speaking. The purity of their tenets, their
tolerance, and the cleanliness of their lives contrast favourably with
the
Hindus and Mahomedans from whom they sprang. Like the latter, they
admit
proselytes to their religion, but no one who is not born one can become
a
Hindu. The Jains, numbering about two millions, represent the survival
of
Buddhism in Western India, and are a peculiar people who may be likened
to
Quakers. Their religion directs them to do no harm to any living thing,
and to
desire nothing inordinately. As a class they have prospered amazingly,
and many
of the wealthiest bankers in India belong to this persuasion. The
Parsis loom
large in the British eye, and Bethnal Green has selected one to
represent it at
St. Stephen’s. They are an alien folk who emigrated from Persia into
Western
India, and only number about a hundred thousand. Their position in the
country
is purely commercial, but they have the genius of the Jews and the
shrewdness
of the Scotch. On the Malabar coast there are two interesting races in
the
Moplahs, descended from the Arabs trading to those parts in remote
times, and a
small but exceedingly curious community of Jews, who retain the customs
and
characteristics of the Chosen People, and their ancient faith, although
so long
and completely cut off from their co-religionists. They lay claim to be
the
lost tribes, as also do the Afghans of the north-west frontier, whose
Semitic
cast of countenance is very marked. In the extreme south of India, St.
Francis
Xavier’s converts teem in thousands, still professing the Roman
Catholic faith,
and there is a Nestorian community whose conversion is ascribed to St.
Thomas
the Apostle. As regards the purely heathen forms of worship, the Todas
and
other wild races still sacrifice to their gods in the jungles, where
they dwell
shy and secluded. There are two divisions of the Mahomedans,
corresponding to
the Roman and Anglo-Catholics of Christianity, and exclusive of a
fanatical
offshoot known as Wahabis. Hinduism is divided into an infinity of
sects. And,
finally, it may surprise the reader to learn that in this subject-land,
where
men are reckoned by the million and the hundred million, there are less
than a
hundred and fifty thousand English, and about the same number of
Eurasians, or
half-castes, of whom a proportion are descended from Portuguese. It will
thus be
seen that religion divides this complex country almost as much as race
and
language. Intermarriage between the different peoples and religions is
absolutely unknown, and with the fall of the Mogul Empire proselytism
ceased to
exist, and the only persons systematically seeking to convert others to
their
creed are the Christian missionaries. Social
exclusiveness is the universal rule in India, and in a country filled
with
varying elements there is no commingling of them. The Indian peoples
are
organically antagonistic to amalgamation in any shape or form, and hold
themselves as distinct from one another in their social and domestic
relations
as do the different species of animals. It is due to this that they
have
managed to preserve intact their respective individualities through so
many
centuries, and hence it happens that the country generalised as “India”
is
really a congeries of separate nations, and “Our Neighbour the Indian”
the
cosmopolitan personage he has been described. |