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In India

By
G. W. Steevens

Author of "The Land of the Dollar," "Egypt in 1898,"
"With Kitchener to Khartum," etc.



New York
Dodd, Mead and Company
1899

CONTENTS

The Vestibule of India — An Epitome of Incongruity

CHAPTER II

BOMBAY.

A City of Contrasts — From West to East — First Glimpse of the Native —
The Parsis — A Beautiful Queen


CHAPTER III

LORD, HAVE MERCY ON US!

Nobody Cares — A Tenement House — A Segregation Camp —
The Outlook


CHAPTER IV

THE MOST SPORTING COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.

H. H. the Maharajah — The State of Marwar — The Saving Horse

CHAPTER V

A RAJPUT CITY.

Gentleman — "Like Me" — Pure East — The Palace on the Rock

CHAPTER VI

THE CAMP OF EXERCISE.

The Problem of the Defile — Patrols at Work — The Sham Fight —
The British Army in Earnest — Points for Study — The Native Officer —
Difficulties
of the Question

CHAPTER VII

DELHI.

The Kutb Minar — The Jumma Musjid — The Palace — Incongruous India

CHAPTER VIII

CALCUTTA.

"The Gentlemen at Fort William" — The Maidan — The Anglo-Indian: New Style — On the Hughli — The Bengali: His Legs

CHAPTER IX

ON NATIVE SELF-GOVERNMENT.

A Discreditable Record — The Calcutta Municipal Bill —
"The Rights Of the People" — Government's Blunder —
The Bated Chairman — Expenditure and Revenue —
The Uneducated B.A.


CHAPTER X

THE HIGHER EDUCATION.

The Complete Babu — Cram — Superfluous B.A.'s —
From "The National Magazine" — The Practical Use of Learning


CHAPTER XI

THE MAHARAJAH BAHADUR.

The Permanent Settlement — The Ganges and Behar — His Retinue —
His Rich Relations — What do We Know?


CHAPTER XII

DARJILING.

The D. H. R. — The World of Plants — The Himalayas

CHAPTER XIII

THE VILLAGERS.

Hungry and Helpless — The Bunnia — A Sugar-Mill — The Complaints —
The Indian Evening


CHAPTER XIV

THE CITY OF SHAH JEHAN.

The Pearl Mosque — The Arabian Nights Alive — The Uncrowned Prisoner — Every Point Perfection — The Fit Close

CHAPTER XV

THE RULERS OF INDIA.

Parliament and India — The Legislative Council —
The Mean
ing of Competitive Examinations

CHAPTER XVI

THE DISTRICT OFFICER.

The Sad Case of Mukkan Singh — Points for Decision — Further Points —
The Travelling Court House — Omnipotent at Thirty


CHAPTER XVII

JUSTICE.

The Witnesses — A Conflict of Evidence — The Art of Perjury —
Chutni and Meat


CHAPTER XVIII

PROVIDENCE AND THE PARLOUR GAME.

Records — The Village Accountant Reports — The Absent Presence

CHAPTER XIX

THE FOREST OFFICER.

The Elephant — A Solitary Exile — The Plan and the Work — The Ranger

CHAPTER XX

THE CANAL.

The Engineer — A Triumph of Engineering — Public Works That Pay — Glug-Glug

CHAPTER XXI

THE SHRINE OF THE SIKHS.

Short Rule, Long Battles — Respectable India — A Miracle —
Jewels and Dirt


CHAPTER XXII

ON THE BORDER.

Peshawar City — Waxcloth — The Last of His Family —
The Dutiful
Son

CHAPTER XXIII

THE KHYBER.

The Meeting Caravans — The Footprints of War —
The Excitements of Sentry-Go — The Frontier Feeling


CHAPTER XXIV

THE MALAKAND.

The Home of the Guides — A Box of Soldiers on a Rockery —
Fort Chakdara — The Sons of Joseph


CHAPTER XXV

THE FRONTIER QUESTION.

Bravery or Despair — The Afridis — Russia — Britain's Choice

CHAPTER XXVI
OF RAJAHS.

A Living Ghost — A Staggering Compliment — The Resident Administrator — The Sporting Rajah

CHAPTER XXVII

THE COMPLETE GLOBE TROTTER.

The Decline of the Hotel — The Indian Train — A Workmanlike Service —
The Blessings of Friendship


CHAPTER XXVIII

THE HAPPY HOMES OF INDIA.

The Compound — Twenty-eight Servants Apiece — The Honour of the Servant — A Double Exile

CHAPTER XXIX

THE CASE OF REBELLIOUS POONA.

The Empire of the Marathas — The Malcontent — A Religion Which is a Life — How the Native Dies

CHAPTER XXX

THE JAIL.

The Religion of Theft — Arcadia — At Jubilee Time — Opium on the Brain

CHAPTER XXXI

HYDERABAD, DEKHAN.

A Wealthy Territory — Its Threshold — Golconda — A Wedding

CHAPTER XXXII

MADRAS.

A Spacious City — The East Coast Railway — The Southern Brahman —
The Red-Rock of India


CHAPTER XXXIII

THE SALT-PANS.

Hard Work and Loneliness — A Brine-Watered Farm —
An Honest Administration — Guarding the Guardians


CHAPTER XXXIV

THE GREAT PAGODAS.

Tanjore — The Sublime and the Ridiculous — Madura

CHAPTER XXXV

THE RUPEE.

Foreign Trade and Foreign Debt — The Fall in Silver — Salaries in India —
The Export Trade — The Closing of the Mints — The Committee's Plan


CHAPTER XXXVI

THE ARMY AND MUTINY.

The New Conditions — Split Regiments — Trust the Native! — Imperial Service Troops

CHAPTER XXXVII

THE IMPERIAL BABU.

The Decline of British Influence — Absence and Red-Tape —
The "Europe-Returned"


CHAPTER XXXVIII

THE LAND OF IRONIES.

British Unselfishness — The Farce or Justice — The Curse of Peace —
The Barrier of Race

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