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V TABLE PLENISHINGS IN the early days of the colonies
doubtless the old
Anglo-Saxon board laid on trestles was used for a dining-table instead
of a
table with a stationary top. "Table bords" appear in early New
England wills, and "trestles" also. "Long tables" and
"drawing tables" were next named. A "long table" was used
as a dining-table, and, from the frequent appearance of two forms with
it, was
evidently used from both sides, and not in the ancient fashion of the
diners
sitting at one side only. A drawing-table was an extension-table; it
could by
an arrangement of drop leaves be doubled in length. A fine one can be
seen in
the rooms of the Connecticut Historical Society. Chair tables were the
earliest
example, in fact the prototype, of some of our modern extraordinary
"combination" furniture. The tops were usually round, and
occasionally large enough to be used as a dining-table, and when turned
over by
a hinge arrangement formed the back of the chair. "Hundred legged"
tables had flaps at either end which turned down or were held up in
place by a
bracket composed of a number of turned perpendicular supports which
gave to it
the name of "hundred legs." These tables were frequently very large;
a portion of the top of one in the Connecticut Historical Society is
seven feet
four inches wide. Tea-tables came with tea; they were advertised in the
Boston
News Letter in 1712. Occasionally we find mention of a curious and
unusual
table, such as the one named in the effects of Sir Francis Bernard,
which were
sold September 11, 1770: "Three tables forming a horseshoe for the
benefit
of the Fire." As a table was in early days a board, so a
tablecloth
was a board-cloth; and ere it was a tablecloth it was table-clothes.
Cristowell
Gallup, in 1655, had "1 Holland board-cloth;" and William Metcalf, in
1644, had a "diaper board-cloth." Another Boston citizen had
"broad-clothes." Henry Webb, of Boston, named in his will, in 1660,
his "beste Suite of Damask Table-cloath, Napkins &
cupboard-cloath." Others had holland tablecloths and holland square
cloths
with lace on them. Arras tablecloths are also named in 1654, and cloths
enriched with embroidery in colors. The witch Ann Hibbins had "1
Holland
table cloth edged with blewe," worth twelve shillings; and a Hartford
gentleman had, in 1689, a "table Cloth wrought with red." In 1728
"Hukkbuk Tabling" was advertised in the New England Weekly Journal,
but the older materials — damask, holland, and diaper — were
universally used
then, as now. The colonists had plenty of napkins, as
had all
well-to-do and well-bred Englishmen at that date. Napkins appear in all
the
early inventories. In 1668 the opulent Jane Humphreys, of Dorchester,
left
"two wrought Napkins with no lace around it," "half a duzzen of
napkins," and "napkins wrought about and laced." In 1680 Robert
Adams had six "diaper knapkins." Captain Tyng had in 1653 four dozen
and a half of napkins, of which two dozen were of "layd worke." It
has been said that these napkins were handkerchiefs, not table napkins;
but I
think the way they are classed in inventories does not so indicate. For
instance, in the estate of Captain Corwin, a wealthy man, who died in
Salem in
1685, was a "suit of Damask 1 Table cloth, 18 napkins, 1 Towel,"
valued at A. Occasionally, however, they are specially designated as
"pocket napkins," as in the estate of Elizabeth Cutter in 1663, where
four are valued at one shilling. Early English books on table manners, such
as
"The Babees Boke" and "The Boke of Nurture," though minute
in detail, yet name no other table-furniture than cups, chafing-dishes,
chargers, trenchers, salt-cellars, knives, and spoons. The table
plenishings of
the planters were somewhat more varied, but still simple; when our
Pilgrim
fathers landed at Plymouth, the collection of tableware owned by the
entire
band was very meagre. With the exception of a few plate-silver tankards
and
drinking-cups, it was also very inexpensive. The silver was handsome
and heavy,
but items of silver in the earliest inventories are rare. By the
beginning of
the eighteenth century silver became plentiful, and the wills even of
humble
folk contain frequent mentions of it. Ministers, doctors, and
magistrates had
many handsome pieces. By the middle of the century a climax was
reached, as in
the possessions of Peter Faneuil, when pieces of furniture were of
solid
silver. The salt-cellar was the focus of the
old-time board.
In earlier days, in England, to be seated above or below the salt
plainly spoke
the social standing of a guest. The "standing salt" was often the
handsomest furnishing of the table, the richest piece of family plate.
Comfort
Starr, of Boston, had, in 1659, a "greate Siluer-gilt double
Saltceller." Isaac Addington bequeathed by will his "Bigges Siluer
Sewer & Salt." A sewer was a salver. As we note by the list of
Judith
Sewall's wedding furniture in 1720, standing salts were out of date,
and
"trencher saltcellars" were in fashion. Four dozen was a goodly
number, and evinced an intent of bounteous hospitality. These
trencher-salts
were of various shapes and materials: "round and oval pillar-cut Salts,
Bonnet Salts, 3 Leg'd Salts," were all of glass; others were of pewter,
china, hard metal, and silver. The greater number of spoons owned by the
colonists
were of pewter or of alchymy — or alcamyne, ocamy, odany, orkanie,
alcamy, or
occonie — a metal composed of pan brass and arsenicum. The reference in
inventories, enrolments, and wills, to spoons of these materials are so
frequent, so ever-present, as to make citation superfluous. An evil
reputation
of poisonous unhealthfuluess hung around the vari-spelled alchymy.
(perhaps it
is only a gross libel of succeeding generations); but, harmful or
harmless,
alchymy, no matter how spelt, disappears from use before Revolutionary
times.
Wooden spoons also are named. Silver spoons were not very plentiful.
John
Oxenbridge bequeathed thirteen spoons in 1673, and "one sweetmeat
spoon," and "1 childs spoon which was mine in my infancy." Other
pap-spoons and caudle-spoons are named in wills; marrow-spoons also,
long and
slender of bowl. The value of a dozen silver spoons was given in 1689
as £5
13s. 6d. In succeeding years each genteel family owned silver spoons,
frequently in large number; while one Boston physician, Dr. Cutter,
had, in
1761, half a dozen gold teaspoons. Forks, or "tines," for cooking purposes,
and "prongs" or "grains" or "evils" for
agricultural purposes, were imported at early dates; but I think
Governor
Winthrop had the first table-fork ever brought to America. In 1633,
when forks
were rare in England, he received a letter from E. Howes, saying that
the
latter had sent to him a "case containing an Irish skeayne or knife, a
bodekyn & a forke for the useful applycation of which I leave to
your
discretion." I am strongly suspicious that Winthrop's discretion may
not
have been educated up to usefully applying the fork for feeding
purposes at the
table. In the inventory of the possessions of Antipas Boyes (made in
1669) a
silver spoon, fork, and knife are mentioned. Dr. Lyon gives the names
of seven
New Englanders whose inventories date from 1671 to 1693, and who owned
forks.
In 1673 Parson Oxenbridge had "one forked spoon," and his widow had
two silver forks. Iron forks were used in the kitchen, as is shown in
the
inventory of Zerubbabel Endicott in 1683. And three-tined iron forks
were stuck
into poor witch-ridden souls in Salem by William Morse-his Daemon. In 1718 Judge Sewall gave Widow Denison
two cases
with a knife and fork in each, "one Turtleshell tackling the other long
with Ivory handles squar'd cost 4s. 6d." In 1738 Peter Fanueil ordered
one
dozen silver forks from England,
"with three prongs, with my arms cut upon them, made very
neat and
handsome." One Boston citizen had in 1719 six four-pronged forks, an
early
example of that fashion. In 1737 shagreen cases with ivory-handled
forks were
advertised; bone, japanned metal, wood, and horn handles also appeared
— all,
of course, with metal prongs. Sir Francis Bernard had in 1770 three
cases of
china-handled knives and forks, "with spoons to each," which must
have formed a pretty table furnishing. In many New England inventories of the
seventeenth
century, among personal belongings, appears the word taster. Thus in
1659
Richard Webb, of Boston, left by will "1 Silver Wine Taster;" and in
1673 John Oxenbridge had "1 Siluer Taster with a funnel." A taster
was apparently a small cup. Larger drinking-cups of silver were called
beakers,
or tankards, beer-bowls, or wine-bowls. These latter vessels were made
also of
humbler metal. A sneaker was a small drinking-glass, used by moderate
drinkers
— sneakcups they were called. The Pilgrims may have had a few mugs and
jugs of
coarse earthen ware. A large invoice of Poruguese "road ware" was
sent to the Maine settlers in 1634, and proved thoroughly unsuitable
and
undurable; but probably no china — not even Delft ware — came over on
the
Mayflower. For when the Pilgrims made their night trip through the
Delft-producing cities, no such wares were seen on the tables of
plebeian
persons. Early mentions of china are in the estate of President John
Davenport
in 1648 — "Cheney £5," and of Martha Coteymore in 1647. Earthen ware, Green ware, Lisbon ware,
Spanish
platters, are mentioned in early inventories; but I am sure neither
china ware
nor earthen ware was plentiful in early days; nor was china much known
till
Revolutionary times. The table furnishings of the New England
planters
consisted largely of wooden trenchers, and these trenchers were
employed for
many years. Sometimes they were simply square blocks of wood whittled
out by
hand. From a single trencher two persons — two children, or a man and
wife —
ate their meals. It was a really elegant household that furnished a
trencher
apiece for each diner. Trenchers were of quite enough account to be
left by
name in early wills, even in those of wealthy colonists. In 1689 "2
Spoons
and 2 Trenchers" were appraised at six shillings. Miles Standish left
twelve wooden trenchers when he died. Many gross of them were purchased
for use
at Harvard College. As late as May, 1775, I find "Wooden Trenchers"
advertised among table furnishings, in the Connecticut Courant.
It was the same in Old England. J. Ward,
writing in
1828 of the "Potter's Art," spoke thus of the humble boards of his
youth:
"And
there the trencher commonly was seen
With its attendant ample platter treen." Until almost our own time trenchers were
made in
Vermont of the white, clean, hard wood of the poplar-tree, and were
sold and
used in country homes. Old wooden trenchers may be seen in Deerfield
Memorial
Hall. Bottles, noggins, cups, and lossets (flat dishes) of wood were
also used
at colonial boards. The time when America was settled was the
era when
pewter ware had begun to take the place of wooden ware, just as the
time of the
Revolutionary War may be assigned to mark the victory of porcelain over
pewter.
A set of pewter platters, or chargers and
dishes,
made what was called a "garnish" of pewter, and were a source of
great pride to every colonial housewife, and much time and labor were
devoted
to polishing them until they shone like silver. Dingy pewter was fairly
accounted a disgrace. The most accomplished Virginian gentleman of his
day gave
as a positive rule, in 1728, that "Pewter Bright" was the sign of a
good housekeeper. The trade of pewterer was a very
influential and
respectable one in New England as well as Old England. One of Boston's
richest
merchants, Henry Shrimpton, made large quantities of pewter ware for
the
Massachusetts colonists. So proud was he of his business that in his
later
years of opulence he had a great kettle atop of his house, to indicate
his past
trade and means of wealth. Pewter and pewterers abounded until the vast
increase of Oriental commerce brought the influx of Chinese porcelain
to drive
out the dull metal. Advertisements of pewter table utensils did not
disappear,
however, in New England newspapers until this century. A universal table furnishing was —
"The porringers that in a row
Hung high and made a glittering show." When not in use porringers were hung by
their pierced
handles on hooks on the edge of the dresser-shelf, and, being usually
of
polished pewter or silver, indeed made a glittering show. Pewter
porringers
were highly prized. One family, in 1660, had seven, and another
housewife
boasted of nine. They were bequeathed in nearly all the early colonial
wills.
In 1673 John Oxenbridge left three silver porringers and his wife one
silver
pottinger; but pewter was the favorite metal. I do not find porringers
ever
advertised under that name in New England papers, though many were made
as late
as this century by New Haven, Providence, and Boston pewterers. Many
bearing
the stamps of these manufacturers have been preserved until the present
day,
seeming to have escaped the sentence of destruction apparently passed
on other
pewter utensils and articles of tableware. Perhaps they have been saved because the
little,
shallow, graceful dishes, with flat pierced handle on one side, are
really so
pretty. The fish-tail handles are found on Dutch pewter. Silver
porringers were
made by all the silversmiths. Many still exist bearing the stamp of one
honored
maker, Paul Revere. Little earthen porringers of red pottery and
tortoiseshell
ware are also found, but are not plentiful. A similar vessel, frequently handleless,
was what was
spelt, in various colonial documents, posned, possnet, posnett,
porsnet,
pocneit, posnert, possenette, postnett, and parsnett. It is derived
from the
Welsh posned, a porringer or little dish. In 1641 Edward
Skinner left a
"Postnett" by will; this was apparently of pewter. In 1653 Governor
Haynes, of Hartford, left an "Iron Posnet" by will. In the inventory
of the estate of Robert Daniel, of Cambridge, in 1655, we learn that "a
Little Porsenett" of his was worth five shillings. In 1693 Governor
Caleb
Carr, of Providence, bequeathed to his wife a "silver possnet & the
cover belonging to it." By these records we see that posnets were of
various metals, and sometimes had covers. I have found no
advertisements of
them in early American newspapers, even with all their varied array of
utensils
and vessels. I fancy the name fell quickly into disuse in this country.
In
Steele's time, in the Tatler, he speaks of "a silver Posnet to
butter eggs." I have heard the tiny little shallow pewter porringers,
about two or three inches in diameter, with pierced handles, which are
still
found in New England, called posnets. They were in olden times used to
heat
medicine and to serve pap to infants. I have also been told that these
little
porringers were not posnets, but simply the samples of work made by
apprentices
in the pewterer's trade to show their skill and proficiency. Tin vessels were exceedingly rare in the
seventeenth
century, either for table furnishings or for cooking utensils, and far
from
common in the succeeding one. John Wynter, of Richmond's Island, Maine,
had a
"tinninge basson & a tinninge platter" in 1638. In 1662 Isaac
Willey, of New London, had "Tynen Pans & 1 Tynen Quart Pott;" and
Zerubbabel Endicott, of Salem, had a "great tyn candlestick." By
1729, when Governor Burnet's effects were sold, we read of kitchen
utensils of
tin. I do not think iron was in high favor
among the
colonists as a material for household utensils. It was not an iron age.
They
had iron pans, candlesticks, dishes, fire-dogs, and pots: the latter
vessels
were traded for vast and valuable tracts of land with the simple red
men; but
iron was not vastly in use. At an early date iron-foundries were
established
throughout New England, with, however, varying success. Latten ware, which was largely composed of
brass,
appeared in various useful forms for table and culinary appointments.
Hard-metal was a superior sort of pewter. Prince's metal (so called
from Prince
Rupert), a fine brass alloyed with copper and arsenicum, is
occasionally named.
Leather, strangely enough, was also used
on the table
in the form of bottles and drinking cups and jacks, which were pitchers
or jugs
of waxed leather, much used in ale-houses in the fourteenth and
fifteenth century,
and whose employment gave rise to the belief of the French that
Englishmen
drank their ale out of their boots. Endicott received of Winthrop one
leathern
jack worth one shilling and sixpence. I find leathern jacks, bottles,
and cups
named among the property of Connecticut colonists. Nearly all the glass ware of the
eighteenth century
was of inferior quality, full of bubbles and defects. It was frequently
fluted.
Many pieces have been preserved that have been painted in vitrifiable
colors;
the designs are crude, the colors red, yellow, blue, and occasionally
black or
green. The transparent glass thus painted is said to be of Dutch
manufacture.
The opalized glass similarly decorated is Spanish. Drinking-glasses or
flip-mugs seem to have been most common, or, at any rate, most largely
preserved. The tradition attached to all the pieces of Spanish glass
which I
have found in New England homes is that they came from the Barbadoes.
Bristol
glass also was painted in colors, and came to this country, being
advertised in
the Boston News-Letter. Glass bottles were frequently left by will
in early
days, being rare and valuable; but by newspaper days glass was imported
in
various shapes, and soon was plentiful enough. In 1773 we find this
advertisement: "Very rich Cut Glass Candlesticks, cut
Glass
sugar Boxes & Cream Potts, Wine, Wine & Water, and Beer Glasses
with
cut shanks, Jelly & Syllabub Glasses, Glass Salvers, also Cyder
Glasses,
Free Mason Glasses, Orange & Top Glasses, Glass Cans, Glass Cream
Buckets
and Crewits, Royal Arch Mason Glasses, Glass Pyramids with Jelly
Glasses, Globe
& Barrel Lamps, Double Flynt Wyn Glasses," &c. The most curious glass relics that are
preserved are
the flip-glasses or bumper-glasses; they are tumbler-shaped, and are
frequently
engraved or fluted. Some hold over a gallon. The names of table furnishings varied
somewhat in the
eighteenth century. There were milk-pots, milk-ewers, milk jugs, ere
there were
milk-pitchers; sugar-boxes, sugar pots, sugar-basins, ere there were
sugar-bowls;
spoon-boats and spoon-basins ere there were spoon-holders. Terrines
were
imported about 1750. There were pickle-dishes and pickle-boats,
twifflers,
mint-stands and vegetable-basins. One other appurtenance of a dining-room is
found in
all early inventories — a voider. Pewter voiders abounded and were
advertised
in newspapers, as were wicker and china voiders in 1740. The functions
of a
voider were somewhat those of a crumb-tray. They are thus given in Hugh
Rhodes's "Boke of Nurture" in 1577: Wyth
bones & voyd morsels fyll not
thy trenchour, my friend, full Avoyd them into a Voyder, no man will it anull. When meate is taken quyte awaye and Voyders in presence Put you your trenchour in the same and all your resydence. Take you with your napkin & knyfe the croms that are fore thee In the Voyder your Napkin leave for it is curtesye |