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CHAPTER X. Collections shipped for India —
Success attending this
year's importations — Visit Canton — Method of scenting teas described
—
Flowers used in the operation — Their scientific and Chinese names —
Their
relative value — Prices paid for them — Manufacture of "caper"
described — Inferior ditto — "Lie capers" — Orange pekoe — High
character of foreign merchants in China — Howqua's garden described —
Its
plants, ornamental doors, and alcoves, &c. — Polite notices to
visitors
worthy of imitation.
THE various collections I had made during
the summer
and autumn had been left, from time to time as they were formed, in the
charge
of Chinese friends in various parts of the country. Mr. Meadows, of the
British
consulate in Ningpo, and Mr. Wadman, a merchant there, had also taken
charge of
some plants which I had planted for safety in their gardens. It was now
of
great importance to get all these collections together as speedily as
possible,
and have them conveyed to the port of Shanghae, where they could be
packed in a
proper manner and shipped to Hongkong, and from thence to India. This
was
satisfactorily accomplished, and, being luckily favoured with fine
weather and
a leading wind, I reached Shanghae in two days, and deposed my
collections
safely in the garden of Mr. Beale. A large number of Ward's cases,
having been
ordered some time before, were now ready. These were now filled with
earth, and
all the plants carefully planted; at the same time large quantities of
tea-seed, chesnuts, and other things of that nature were sown in the
soil and
left to germinate on the voyage to India. My other collections of the
seeds of
useful and ornamental trees and shrubs were well dried and packed in a
common
wooden box. It is very rare that there is a vessel
from Shanghae
direct for Calcutta, and consequently all these things had to be
transshipped
at Hongkong. Living plants are not like bales of merchandize; they are
easily
destroyed by the admission of salt water or salt air, and are more
likely to be
damaged while undergoing transshipment than during a long voyage at
sea. As on
former occasions, I determined to accompany my collections to Hongkong,
and
look after the transshipment myself. The formation of this collection
had cost
me much labour and care; the unsettled condition of the country
rendered it
extremely doubtful that I should be equally successful in the following
season;
and it was therefore an object of the first importance to endeavour by
every
means in my power to ensure the safety of that now in hand. Everything went according to my wishes;
Hongkong was
reached in safety, the collections were sent on to Calcutta in four
different
ships, and a few months afterwards I had the very great satisfaction to
hear
that the whole had arrived at their destination in excellent condition.
No
fewer than 23,892 tea-plants, upwards
of 300 chesnut trees, and a large quantity of other things of great
value in
India, now growing on the Himalayas, were the results of this year's
labours.
The rice-paper plant (Aralia papyrifera) presented to me by J.
C.
Bowling, Esq., of Hongkong, was also introduced to India, and is now a
remarkable object of great interest in the Calcutta gardens. When the various consignments had been
despatched, I
went up to Canton for a few days before proceeding again to the north,
in order
if possible to get some reliable information as to the mode of scenting
tea,
which is only understood and practised at this port with teas destined
for the
foreign markets. I had been making inquiries for some time past, both
of
foreigners and Chinese, about this curious process carried on so
extensively at
Canton; but the answers and descriptions I received to my questions
were so
unsatisfactory, that I gave up all hopes of understanding the process
until I
had an opportunity of seeing and judging for myself. When I reached
Canton I
was informed the whole process might be seen any day at that season in
full
operation in a tea-factory on the island of Honan. Messrs. Walkinshaw
and
Thorburn, two gentlemen well acquainted with the various kinds of teas
sent
annually to Europe and America, consented to accompany me to this
factory, and
we took with us the Chinese merchant to whom the place belonged. I was
thus
placed in a most favourable condition for obtaining a correct knowledge
of this
most curious subject. When we entered the tea-factory a strange scene
was
presented to our view. The place was crowded with women and children,
all
busily engaged in picking the stalks and yellow or brown leaves out of
the
black tea. For this labour each was paid at the rate of six cash a
catty, and
earned on an average about sixty cash a day, — a sum equal to about
threepence
of our money. The scene altogether was not unlike that in the great
Government
Cigar Manufactory at Manilla. Men were employed giving out the tea in
its rough
state, and in receiving it again when picked. With each portion of tea
a wooden
ticket was also given, which ticket had to be returned along with the
tea. In
the northern tea-countries the leaves are carefully weighed when they
are given
out and when they are brought back, in order to check peculation, which
is not
unfrequent. I did not observe this precaution taken at Canton. Besides
the men
who were thus employed, there were many others busily at work, passing
the tea
through various sized sieves, in order to get out the caper, and to
separate
the various kinds. This was also partly done by a winnowing machine,
similar in
construction to that used by our farmers in England. Having taken a
passing
glance at all these objects on entering the building, I next directed
my
attention to the scenting process, which had been the main object of my
visit,
— and which I shall now endeavour to describe. In a corner of the building there lay a large heap of orange-flowers, which filled the air with 'the most delicious perfume. A man was engaged in sifting them to get out the stamens and other smaller portions of the flower. This process was necessary, in order that the flowers might be readily sifted out of the tea after the scenting had been accomplished. The orange-flowers being fully expanded, the large petals were easily separated from the stamens and smaller ones. In 100 parts 70 per cent. were used and 30 thrown away. When the orange is used, its flowers must be fully expanded, in order to bring out the scent; but flowers of jasmine may be used in the bud, as they will expand and emit their fragrance during the time they are mixed with the tea. When the flowers had been sifted over in the manner described they were ready for use. In the mean time the tea to be scented had been carefully manipulated, and appeared perfectly dried and finished. At this stage of the process it is worthy of observing that, while the tea was perfectly dry, the orange-flowers were just as they had been gathered from the trees. Large quantities of the tea were now mixed up with the flowers, in the proportion of 40 lbs. of flowers to 100 lbs. of tea. This dry tea and the undried flowers were allowed to lie mixed together for the space of twenty-four hours. At the end of this time the flowers were sifted out of the tea, and by the repeated sifting and winnowing processes which the tea had afterwards to undergo they were nearly all got rid of. Sometimes a few stray ones are left in the tea, and may be detected even after it arrives in England. A small portion of tea adheres to the moist flowers when they are sifted out, and this is generally given away to the poor, who pick it out with the hand. The flowers, at this part of the process,
had
impregnated the tea-leaves with a large portion of their peculiar
odours, but
they had also left behind them a certain portion of moisture, which it
was
necessary to expel. This was done by placing the tea once more over
slow
charcoal-fires in baskets and sieves prepared for the purpose of
drying. The
scent communicated by the flowers is very slight for some time, but,
like the
fragrance peculiar to the tea-leaf itself, comes out after being packed
for a
week or two. Sometimes this scenting process is repeated when the odour
is not
considered sufficiently strong; and the head man in the factory
informed me he
sometimes scented twice with orange-flowers and once with the "Mo-le"
(Jasminum Sambac). The flowers of various plants are used in
scenting by
the Chinese, some of which are considered better than others, and some
can be
had at seasons when others are not procurable. I considered it of some
importance to the elucidation of this subject to find out not only the
Chinese
names of these various plants, but also, by examining the plants
themselves, to
be able to give each the name by which it is known to scientific men in
all
parts of the world. The following list was prepared with great care,
and may be
fully relied upon. The numbers prefixed express the relative value of
each kind
in the eyes of the Chinese, and the asterisks point out those which are
mostly
used for scenting teas for the foreign markets in the order in which
they are
valued; thus the "Mo-le" and the "Sieu-hing" are considered
the best, and so on: — 1. Rose, scented (Tsing moi-qui-hwa). 1 or 2. Plum, double (Moi-hwa). 2*. Jasminum Sambac (Mo-le-hwa). 2 or 3*. Jasminum paniculatum
(Sieu-hing-hwa). 4*. Aglaia odorata (Lan-hwa, or
Yu-chu-lan). 5. Olea fragrans (Kwei-hwa).
6*. Orange (Chang-hwa).
7*. Gardenia florida (Pak-sema-hwa). It has been frequently stated that the Chloranthus
is largely used. This appears to be a mistake, originating, no doubt,
in the
similarity of its Chinese name to that of Aglaia odorata. The Chloranthus
is called "Chu-lan," the Aglaia "Lan" or
"Yu-chu-lan." The different flowers which I have just
named are not
all used in the same proportions. Thus, of orange-flowers there are 40
lbs. to
100 lbs. of tea; of Aglaia there are 100 lbs. to 100 lbs.; and
of Jasminum
Sambac there are 50 lbs. to 100 lbs. The flowers of the Sieu-hing (Jasminum
paniculatum) are generally mixed with those of the Mo-le (Jasminum
Sambac), in the proportion of 10 lbs. of the former to 30 lbs. of
the
latter, and the 40 lbs. thus produced are sufficient for 100 lbs. of
tea. The
"Kweihwa" (Olea fragrans) is used chiefly in the northern
districts as a scent for a rare and expensive kind of Hyson Pekoe — a
tea which
forms a most delicious and refreshing beverage when taken à la
Chinoise
without sugar and milk. The quantity of flowers used seemed to me to be
very
large; and I made particular inquiries as to whether the teas that are
scented
were mixed up with large quantities of unscented kinds. The Chinese
unhesitatingly affirmed that such was not the case; but,
notwithstanding their
assertions, I had some doubt on this point. The length of time which teas thus scented
retain the
scent is most remarkable. It varies, however, with the different sorts.
Thus,
the Olea fragrans tea will only keep well for one year; at the
end of
two years it has either become scentless, or has a peculiar oily odour
which is
disagreeable. Teas scented with orange-blossoms and with those of the
Mo-le
will keep well for two or three years, and the Sieu-hing kinds for
three or
four years. The Aglaia retains the scent longer than any, and is said
to
preserve well for five or six years. The tea scented with the Sieu-hing
is said
to be most esteemed by foreigners, although it is put down as second or
third
rate by the Chinese. Scented teas for the foreign market are
nearly all
made in Canton, and are known to merchants by the names of "Scented
Orange
Pekoe," and "Scented Caper." They are grown in and near a place
called Tai-shan, in the Canton province. Mr. Walkinshaw informs me that
other
descriptions of tea, both black and green, have been scented for the
English
market, but have been found unsuitable. True "caper" is to black tea
what the kinds called "imperial" and "gunpowder" are to
green: it assumes a round, shot-looking form during the process of
manipulation, and it is easily separated from the other leaves by
sifting or by
the winnowing machine. It is a common error to suppose that
"imperial" or "gunpowder" amongst green teas, or
"caper" amongst black ones, is prepared by rolling each leaf singly
by the hand. Such a method of manipulation would make them much more
expensive
than they are. One gathering of tea is said to yield 70 per cent. of
orange
pekoe, 25 of souchong, and 5 of caper. The quantity of true caper would
therefore appear to be very small; but there are many ways of
increasing the
quantity by peculiar modes of manipulation, as I shall afterwards show. In a large factory, such as this at
Canton, there is,
of course, a considerable quantity of dust and refuse tea remaining
after the
orange pekoe, caper, and souchong have been sifted out of it. This is
sold in
the country to the natives at a low price, and no doubt is often made
up with
paste and other ingredients into those lie teas which now-adays
find a
market in England. Nothing is lost or thrown away in China. The stalks
and
yellow leaves which have been picked out by women and children are sold
in the
country; while the flowers which have done their duty in the scenting
process
are given to the poor, who pick out the few remaining tea-leaves which
had been
left by the sieve or winnowing machine. Some flowers, such as those of
the
Aglaia for example, after being sifted out from the tea are dried and
used in
the manufacture of the fragrant "joss-stick," so much used in the
religious ceremonies of the country. It appears from these investigations that
many kinds
of fragrant flowers besides those used by the Chinese would answer the
purpose
equally well, and therefore in places like India, where tea is likely
to be
produced upon an extensive scale, experiments in scenting might be made
with
any kinds of fragrant jasmines, daphnés, aurantiaceous or other plants
of a
like kind indigenous to the country. It will be observed from the description
just given
that the method of scenting teas, like most of the arts in China, is
exceedingly simple in its nature and most efficient. It used to be said
by
those who knew nothing about the matter, that "the flowers were put
over a
slow fire, with the tea in a separate basket above them, and so the
fire drove
the scent from the flowers into the tea"! Knowing the immense capacity
which dry tea has for moisture of any kind, how much more simple and
beautiful
is the process of allowing it to lie for a space of time mixed up with
undried
flowers! A few years ago I published a description
of the
Chinese mode of dyeing green teas to suit our depraved tastes in
Europe, and
particularly in America, where they are largely consumed. Scenting teas
is a
very different thing, and nothing can be urged against the taste for
them. That
this is so in the eyes of the Chinese may be gathered from the fact
that, while
they dye their teas, not to drink, but only to sell, they consume and
highly
appreciate these scented ones. The price paid for flowers used in the
scenting
process varies, like everything else, according to the demand or supply
in the
market. In 1854 and 1855 it was about seventeen dollars per pecul,1
but sometimes as much as thirty dollars are paid for the same quantity.
In
former years — ten or twelve years ago — as much as sixty dollars per
pecul
used to be paid for flowers. This information was given me some time
after I
had been examining the method of scenting in the Honan factory, and by
another
manufacturer, and confirmed me in the opinion I had then formed,
namely, that
after the tea is once scented with the proportions of flowers mentioned
above,
it is mixed up with large quantities of unscented tea. Were this not
so, the
large quantity of flowers used would render the tea much more expensive
than it
really is. Upon making further inquiries, of different individuals and
at
different times, I found that my surmises were correct. The results of
the
information thus obtained were, that sixty pounds of this
highly-scented
mixture were capable of scenting one hundred pounds of unscented tea,
and no
doubt it is sometimes used in even smaller proportions.
In all investigations of this nature one
is very apt
to be misled by the Chinese; not, perhaps, so much intentionally as
from
ignorance or carelessness as to whether the information given be
correct or
otherwise. And having once made an assertion, a Chinese does not like
to
confess himself mistaken or in the wrong; but this propensity is not
confined
to the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire. Unless one sees a process
with his
own eyes, he must in all cases use some discretion when he has to take
his
information at second hand. With ordinary care, however, and a little
common
sense, the truth may generally be arrived at, even from the Chinese. Having satisfied myself as to the mode of
scenting
teas, I was now anxious to know how the kinds called "Caper" and
"Orange Pekoe" are manufactured, as they are quite different in
appearance from teas made in the great black-tea provinces of Fokien
and
Kiang-si. As large quantities of these teas — indeed, the whole which
are
exported — are made up near Canton, it was not difficult to find out
where some
of the factories were situated, or to gain admission to witness the
process. M.
C. Morrison, Esq., her Majesty's Vice-Consul at Canton, whose knowledge
of the
Chinese language is of a very high order, having expressed a wish to
accompany
me, we set out together, with a Chinese merchant for our guide. Our
guide told
us that the manufacture, which was very extensive, was carried on in a
great
many parts of the suburbs of Canton; but that the most extensive and
best hongs
were situated on the island of Honan already mentioned. We crossed the
main
river in a boat, and then pulled up a canal for a short distance which
led
through a densely populated suburb. Here we soon found ourselves
abreast of a
number of large tea-hongs, which our guide informed us were those to
which we
were bound. These hongs were large and spacious buildings of two
stories. The
lower portion was filled with tea and implements of manipulation, while
the
upper was crowded with hundreds of women and children engaged in
picking and
sorting the various sorts. Tea
picker. Canton. On entering one of these hongs or
factories, the
first thing to which we directed our attention was the tea which was to
be made
into "caper." I have already stated that this description of tea is
produced near a place called Tai-shan, in the Canton province, a few
miles
inland from the city. Here it undergoes only the first process of
manipulation;
that is, it is fired, rolled, and dried, and the colour fixed, but
nothing
further is done to it. It is then packed up in mat-bags or baskets and
sent
down to Canton to be made up in the approved manner, and scented for
exportation. On examining the tea it presented a very rough appearance,
and in
the state in which it was, seemed unsuited for the foreign markets. The
workmen
were busily engaged in remaking it during the time of our visit, and
they went
to work in the following manner: — A convenient quantity — about twenty or
thirty pounds
— was thrown into the drying-pan, which had been heated for the
operation. Here
it was sprinkled with a basinful of water, and rapidly turned over with
the
hands of the workman. The dry leaves immediately imbibed the moisture,
and
became soft and pliable. This softening process prevented them from
breaking
down into dust, and fitted them, also, to take any form which was
considered
desirable by the manipulator. The water
used on this occasion stood in a large basin adjoining the drying-pans,
and bad
a yellow, dirty appearance, which I was rather at a loss to account
for. At
first sight I thought it was mixed with some ingredient which was
intended to
give a peculiar tint or colour to the tea; but on inquiry it turned out
that my
conjecture was wrong. Our guide, on being appealed to for information
on the
subject, coolly informed us that "there was nothing in the water, it
was
quite clean, but that the workmen were in the habit of washing their
hands in
it!" As soon as the leaves had become softened by the moisture and heat in the pan, they were taken out and put into a strong canvas bag, and twisted firmly into a round form, resembling a football. This bag was then thrown down on the floor, which had been covered with a mat, and a man jumped upon it with both feet, supporting himself at the same time by laying hold of a bamboo pole, which had been erected in a horizontal position for the purpose. The heel, sole, and toes of his feet were now kept in perpetual motion in turning and twisting the ball, while the weight of his body compressed it gradually into a smaller size. As the bulk of the ball is thus reduced by pressure, the canvas slackens, and it is necessary for the workman from time to time to jump off it and tighten its mouth by giving it an extra twist with his hands. The balls by this process of rolling and twisting become at last very hard and solid, and are then thrown on one side, and allowed to lie in this state for several hours: if this work has been done in the evening, they remain all night. By this system of pressing, twisting, and rolling, the greater portion of the moist leaves take a circular form, which goes on to perfection during the subsequent drying which the leaves have, of course, to undergo, and ends in the production of the round shot-like appearance by which this kind of tea is known. It is a most curious sight to a stranger
who sees the
mode of making this tea for the first time. A whole row of these men,
nearly
naked when the weather is warm, each with a large ball under his feet,
which he
is twisting and rolling with all his might, is so unexpected a sight in
tea-making. The clever sketch (Frontispiece) by my friend Mr.
Scarth
gives a good idea of this curious process. The best kind of "caper" takes the round
form naturally during the manufacture of souchong or congou; but, as I
have
already mentioned, only a very small quantity — about five per cent. —
could be
procured in this way. By far the greatest portion of the caper exported
is
manufactured in the manner I have just described. But as I am letting out all the secrets of
tea-manufacture, I may just as well notice another mode of making
"caper," which is scarcely as legitimate as the former. In one corner
of the factory we observed a quantity of tea, exceedingly coarse in
quality, —
in fact, the refuse of that which we had been examining. All the art of
the
manipulator, in so far as heating, and pressing, and rolling in the
usual way,
was not equal to make a good-looking "caper" out of this. The leaves
were too old, too large and coarse in their present state. But,
although there
might be some difficulty, even to a Chinese, in making small leaves
into large
ones, there was none whatever in making large leaves small; and their
mode of
doing this was as follows: — These coarse leaves were first of all
heated and
moistened as the others had been, in order to make them soft and
pliable. They
were then thrown into square boxes and chopped up for some time, until
the size
of the leaves was reduced. When this was accomplished to the
satisfaction of
the operator, they were then made into nice-looking round "caper,"
suitable for the market. The origin of the name this tea bears is,
no doubt,
derived from its resemblance in form to the flower-buds of the
caper-bush of
the south of Europe. And yet it is rather a curious coincidence that
the
greater part of caper tea finds its market in the Cape
of Good
Hope. It will probably suggest itself to the
reader who has
paid any attention to tea-making that large quantities of those kinds
of green
tea known as "gunpowder" and "imperial" may be manufactured
in the same way as "caper," and this is, no doubt, the case,
particularly about Canton. And further, it is the simplest thing in the
world
to convert "caper" into
"imperial" and "gunpowder," and this, too, is often done.
Our Chinese guide informed us, with a peculiar grin on his countenance,
that,
when there is a large demand for green teas, "caper" is converted
into "imperial" and "gunpowder" by dyeing it with Prussian
blue and gypsum! The "orange pekoe" of commerce, which is
produced in the same district as the "caper," is somewhat like congou
in make, but the leaf is much more wiry and twisted, and is of a
lighter
complexion. The infusion produced by this tea has a yellow or orange
tint, and
hence the name of orange pekoe which it bears. Like hyson pekoe amongst
green
teas, this is made from the young leaves soon after they unfold
themselves in
spring, and hence many of the leaves are covered with white hairs which
are
formed at this season of the year. These hairy leaves are called "pekoe
ends" by the trade. A large quantity of this tea is gathered and dried
by
itself, while another portion is taken out of that of which the
"caper" is ultimately made. Canton enjoys the unenviable notoriety of
manufacturing what are commonly called "lie teas" or "lie
capers." These are made out of tea-dust mixed with other rubbish, and
which is taken up and held together by a glutinous substance consisting
of rice
and water. Thin showers of this substance are thrown over the layers of
dust,
and, as each little globule of the fluid comes in contact with it, a
certain
number of particles adhere, and in the course of time are made into
little
round balls resembling the caper of commerce. But no one is, or ought
to be,
deceived by this. Small quantities of such teas are, no doubt,
exported, but it
must be with the knowledge and connivance of the foreigner himself,
whom I
shall not honour with the title of foreign merchant. And I shall be
greatly
surprised to find that such a clumsy fraud affects the respectable
broker or
dealer in Europe or America. During a late tour in India I was told on
more than
one occasion, on the authority of "Old Indians" who had been home,
that it was next to impossible to get genuine tea in England, now that
the East
India Company had no control over the China trade; and that since the
demand
had so much increased, the Chinese were in the habit of supplying it by
substituting the leaves of other trees and shrubs for that which is
genuine. This idea is simply absurd: as a general
rule the
Chinese are doing no such thing; they have plenty of true tea in the
country to
supply all demands, were they twice as great as they are. And while it
may be
perfectly true that some unprincipled adventurers encourage the
production of
"lie teas" by buying them up, the great bulk of the teas exported are
unadulterated with other articles. If sloe-leaves and beech-leaves, and
other
articles of that kind, are found in the teapot by the consumer, they
are much
more likely to have been manufactured in England than in China. The foreign merchants in China as a class are upright and honourable men, and quite incapable of lending themselves to frauds of this description. Besides, every house of any standing has a "tea-taster" who has a perfect knowledge of his business, and who can not only tell true tea from false, but, in most instances, can tell the identical district in which the sample presented to him has been produced. As it seems only a step or two from the
well-known
"Howqua's Mixture" to the less known Howqua's Garden, I now ask the
reader to visit that with me before we leave Canton.
This garden is situated near the
well-known Fa-tee
nurseries, a few miles above the city of Canton, and is a place of
favourite
resort both for Chinese and foreigners who reside in the neighbourhood,
or who
visit this part of the Celestial Empire. I determined on paying it a
visit in
company with Mr. M'Donald, who is well known in this part of the world
as an
excellent Chinese scholar, and to whom I am indebted for some
translations of
Chinese notices, which appeared very amusing to us at the time, and
which, I
dare say, will amuse my readers. Having reached the door of the garden, we
presented
the card with which we were provided, and were immediately admitted.
The view
from the entrance is rather pleasing, and particularly striking to a
stranger
who sees it for the first time. Looking "right ahead," as sailors
say, there is a long and narrow paved walk lined on each side with
plants in
pots. This view is broken, and apparently lengthened, by means of an
octagon
arch which is thrown across, and beyond that a kind of alcove covers
the
pathway. Running parallel with the walk, and on each side behind the
plants,
are low walls of ornamental brickwork, latticed so that the ponds or
small
lakes which are on each side can be seen. Altogether the octagon arch,
the
alcove, the pretty ornamental flower-pots, and the water on each side,
has a striking
effect, and is thoroughly Chinese. The plants consist of good specimens of
southern
Chinese things, all well known in England, such, for example, as
Cymbidium
sinense, Olea fragrans, oranges, roses, camellias, magnolias, &c.,
and, of
course, a multitude of dwarf trees, without which no Chinese garden
would be
considered complete. In the alcove alluded to there are some nice stone
seats,
which look cool in a climate like that of southern China. The floor of
this
building is raised a few feet above the ground-level, so that the
visitor gets
a good view of the water and other objects of interest in the garden.
That this
is a favourite lounge and smoking-place with the Chinese, the following
Chinese
notice, which we found on one of the pillars, will testify: — "A
careful and earnest notice: This garden earnestly requests that
visitors
will spit betle2 outside the railing, and knock the ashes of
pipes
also outside." Several fine fruit-trees and others are growing near the
walks, and afford shade from the rays of the sun. On one of these we
read the
following: — "Ramblers here will be excused plucking the fruit
on
this tree." How exceedingly polite! Near the centre of the garden stands a substantial summer-house, or hall, named "the Hall of Fragrant Plants." The same notice to smokers and chewers of betle-nut is also put up here; and there is another and a longer one which I must not forget to quote. It is this: — "In this garden the plants are intended to delight the eyes of all visitors: a great deal has been expended in planting and in keeping in order, and the garden is now beginning to yield some return. Those who come here to saunter about are earnestly prayed not to pluck the fruit or flowers, in order that the beauty of the place may be preserved." And then follows a piece of true Chinese politeness: — "We beg persons who understand this notice to excuse it!" Passing through the Hall of Fragrant Plants we approached, between two rows of Olea fragrans, a fine ornamental suite of rooms tastefully furnished and decorated, in which visitors are received and entertained. An inscription informs us that this is called "the Fragrant Hall of the Woo-che tree." Leaving this place by a narrow door, we observed the following notice: — "Saunterers here will be excused entering." This apparently leads to the private apartments of the family. In this side of the garden there is some fine artificial rockwork, which the Chinese know well how to construct, and various summer-houses tastefully decorated, one of which is called the "Library of Verdant Purity." Between this part of the garden and the straight walk already noticed there is a small pond or lake for fish and water-lilies. This is crossed by a zigzag wooden bridge of many arches, which looked rather dilapidated. A very necessary notice was put up here informing "saunterers to stop their steps in case of accident." On the outskirts of the garden we observed
the
potting sheds, a nursery for rearing young plants and seeds, and the
kitchen
garden. Here a natural curiosity was pointed out by one of the Chinese,
which,
at first sight, appeared singularly curious. Three trees were growing
in a row,
and at about twenty or thirty feet from the ground the two outer ones
had sent
out shoots, and fairly united themselves with the centre one. When I
mention
that the outer trees are the Chinese banyan (Ficus nitida), it will
readily be
seen how the appearance they presented was produced. The long roots
sent down
by this species had lovingly embraced the centre tree, and appeared at
first
sight to have really grafted themselves upon it. I am afraid I have given a very imperfect description of this curious garden. Those who know what a Chinese garden is will understand me well enough, but it is really difficult to give a stranger an idea of the Chinese style which I have been endeavouring to describe. In order to understand the Chinese style of gardening it is necessary to dispel from the mind all ideas of fine lawns, broad walks, and extensive view; and to picture in their stead everything on a small scale — that is, narrow paved walks, dwarf walls in all directions, with lattice-work or ornamental openings in them, in order to give views of the scenery beyond; halls, summer-houses, and alcoves, ponds or small lakes with zigzag walks over them — in short, an endeavour to make small things appear large, and large things small, and everything Chinese. There are some of these ornaments, however, which I think might be imitated with advantage in our own gardens. Some of the doorways and openings in walls seemed extremely pretty. In particular I may notice a wall about ten feet high, having a number of open compartments filled with porcelain rods made to imitate the stems of the bamboo. I shall now close this notice with the modest lines of the Chinese poet, which we found written in the "Library of Verdant Purity," and which seemed to be an effort to describe the nature of the garden: — "Some few stems of bamboo-plants
A cottage growing round; A few flowers here — some old trees there, And a mow3 of garden ground."
1 133
1/3 lbs. 2
Betle-nut is much used by the southern Chinese. 3 A mow
is about the sixth part of an acre. |